Hi and thanks for your reply !
What is Borout ?
Hello,
Thanks for your reply !
Which model have a boost driver ? Is it important to have a boost driver? I will use it in negative temperatures.
I thought all the lamp were equipped with a buck boost like the Convoy haha.
I was interested in this model, but it only ships to the US 
Thanks for the tips !
Are there headbands whose quality doesn’t change over time? Do they need to be replaced often?
Thanks !
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$11.91 4%OFF | BORUiT LED Mini Headlamp Powerful 2000lm Headlight 18650 Rechargeable Head Waterproof Flashlight Camping Hunting Lighting
Read his entire review. Any of the armytek wizards except for the newest Max LR will have a wider smooth beam than almost any other light out there. I find that very important but not everybody does. The C2 WR has four levels of red which I don’t think anybody else does but it also only has four levels of white light. All of the C2 pro models give you more mode level options. And I find you need a cushion or pad where it rests on the forehead on every strap system out there. So there is no one perfect light for everybody. I am going to create a post soon to show how I pad various headband systems out there.
Also see this post.What is your favorite headlamp?
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Skilhunt H300, Armytek Wizard Pro, Zebralight H600 series.
In my experience, yes, boost driver lights perform better in extreme cold than single-cell lights with other driver types.
I’m hesitating between the Wizard C2 Warm light and the Armytek Wizard Pro. The Wizard Warm has the advantage of the red light, which can be really useful for my hiking and shooting Northern Lights pictures. However, on the other hand, I’m wondering if the red light can be replaced with a very low white light?
I’ve read somewhere that red light is best for preserving night vision. In my usage, I was primarily thinking of hiking with low/medium light and stopping at spots to take photos, using the red light for adjustments.
For the 18650 Wizards not all listed.
The C2 is a basic model. 6 levels light.
The C2WR is the white and red. 4 levels + flash
The C2WG is the white and green. 4 levels + flash
The C2 Pro has 2 ui’s and LEDs in the switch to give you some information about battery and temps. 9 levels + flash
All of the above are available in a warm or white version. Warm is typically around 4000k and white is typically around 5500 to 5700k.
The C2 Pro Nichia is 4500k high cri. 8 levels + flash
2 more limited models.
In Europe, C2 Limited Edition (LE) at 3000k (Nichia) high cri available at a small shop in Poland. 7 levels
In US, C2 Pro Nichia 3000k at killzone. 8 levels+ flash
My first choice would be one of the 3000K if available. Second choice would be one of the Pro options. Third choice would be WG or WR warm.
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H04 519a 3000K .
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Hi
Thanks for your reply !
I’m in Europe ! 
What is the name of the shop in Poland?
Btw, what is the difference between warm Cree led chips and warm Nichia ?
Thanks
You can get x2 H04 instead of 1 armytek.
C2 Limited Edition 3000k . If for some reason the link doesn’t work it at armytek.com.pl
The h04 beam is not as wide, even with the beaded lens, as an armytek wizard. However you’ve given me an idea. If I use 2 ho4s at the same time at slightly different angles then I could get the beam as wide as a single armytek. Yeah I think that will work just fine.
The usual reasons people use red light are to preserve dark adaptation, and to avoid disturbing other people. In my opinion, sub-lumen white modes are at least as good for that purpose, and the Wizard Pro does have an extremely low lowest mode.
I have a strong preference for the color rendering of the Nichia versions. 4500K or 3000K is entirely subjective (afternoon sunlight, or incandescent-like).
I prefer the rubber ring type too. Catch a clampy light just right - and away it goes.
Still I know several cavers that use them.
Over the head strap for anything bouncier than a walk.
All the best,
Jeff
3000k is a whole lot better if there’s any moisture ,rain, snow, fog, or mist in the air. Even light bouncing back at you off of leaves or tree trunks or whatever man-made objects if you’re not in the woods, there is just less glare to look at. The only time 4500k or even higher is okay is when the entire ground and everything is completely covered in snow. Then you can get away with lower settings on a higher temperature light. I suppose an open desert in sand would be similar. I’ve gone out walking on trails (in woods) repeatedly with multiple headlights and swap/rotate them every 5 minutes to fully understand what works better and why it works better. Maybe on wide open terrain with smooth paths where you don’t have to watch your footing you can get away with higher temperatures. But you’ll still suffer if there’s any moisture in the air compared to a 3000k. You can use red for stationary tasks but walking with it is miserable. If the ground is not smooth it’s hard to discern what you’re walking on. Green is better but I haven’t used it a lot.
BioLite 800 Pro. This is one of the best headlamps I’ve ever used and I’ve used a lot and tested a lot of headlamps. It’s light, has long runtimes times, fully regulated output, spot, high cri flood, and red light. It checks off all your boxes except removable battery, but you can power it off a power bank with the charging passthrough.
The other is the Cyansky HS6R.
Quality amd quantity are two different things.
Do you wand one Rolls Royce or eighteen Hyundai’s.
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Quality? Any issues with H04? And it have serviceable host. Its easy to change optics, led, driver. In armytek price range i would get zebra then.
Wide beam have less throw, its more actual indoors , for some close up job.
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