Applied some self adhesive “Milky” d-c-fix to the cover lenses of my Astrolux MF01 Minis and fastened DIY bishop mitres around the bezels. When pointed downward enough that beams drop just below the horizon, effectively shield glare from oncoming traffic/pedestrians. Produces soft cut-off, intensifies light directed toward the ground. Lightweight, aerodynamic, attractive and inexpensive.
Narrower diameter mitres work equally well on Sofirns SP33, see post #12.
Damn, you could poke an eye out with that!
Well, it is a tactical flashlight. 
More food for thought. Thanks all 
Should I go for a soda-can sized light, is it feasible to use a go-pro hose clamp mount like this to hold the light? My only concern is if something 3d printed like that can handle the weight. It won’t be for MTB’ing.
Since I have an out-front mount for the bike computer I’d like to get the light ‘out-front’ as well if I can. So what I would use is a cheap alloy go-pro out front mount, a 2-arm to 3-arm adapter (also 3d printed) so I can use that mount in reverse and have the hose clamp attached the light. Does that sound feasible?
Any thoughts on this JKK03 light?
I got a couple of those JKK03 flashlights from Kaidomain. One was improperly manufactured so that the power button glows dim red when fully charged and bright green when below I guess 40% or whatever. (Have seen a couple reviews on Ali mentioning same issue.) Also that unit tends to step down from Turbo rather quickly, the other one doesn’t seem to step down at all. But High setting is more than good enough for me — I’ve really not had the need ever to run either on Turbo other than for test purposes, preferring to maximize runtime. No issues at all with my two larger JKK36R flashlights (which don’t have illuminating power buttons to begin with.)
Thing about those jin hengs, like all 3-cell flashlights, they won’t fit into any off-the-shelf bike mounts. Had to fab my own swivel clamps from QR studio lighting and they weigh almost as much as the flashlights themselves (see Post #8.)
If you do decide to go with a 3-cell flashlight after all, I’d recommend the Sofirn SP36 BLF over either of the jin hengs. Traffic clover beam shape might be a bit weird but there’s no tint shift or ringing as is common to other aluminum reflector backed LEDs, nor any thermal issues with either of my own two. Great throw and ramping mode works a treat.
The jin heng lights do double as power banks, though I personally can’t see a real practical use for such — more important to me always to have enough juice in the flashlight to see my way all the way home rather than drain it recharging some other USB device. Admit, their four LED charge displays are very nice to have — saves the trouble of having to pry the individual cells out of the tight, spring loaded cassettes and cram into my XTAR VC4S just to get a voltage reading. OTOH it’s a cinch to slide all the cells at once out of the Sofirn SP36, and the dual color LEDs inside the power button give a pretty good indication of their state of charge. Also find the Sofirn’s 5000K 90CRI a bit more appealing on asphalt than my 4000K jin hengs, though those flashlights are available in 5000K as well (just not high CRI). Again, I think the most perfect color temperature for a bike light would be closest to 4500K (as often voiced by fellow BLFers) but dunno if such even exist.
Here’s how the jin heng JKK36R, JKK03 and Sofirn SP36 BLF all compare in terms of size and battery management.
You’ll notice the JKK36R has a separate, swappable cassette. You can find individual item on AE.
Please forgive the aluminum tape wrapped around the bezel on the JKK03, was to help fit a bishop mitre/reflecting shield.