Oh. Well that makes sense I guess… I misunderstood what floor life means, English isn’t my first language.
Example for <30°C TJ is in the link I posted. I’m only saying it is possible in general to reach that temp, not necessarily for this project.
/off topic mode
I like your style, however I have a special needs in the family, she is 18yo with the intellect of a 3~4yo and inteligence that is to low to measure, I have been telling her for 15 years that her dinner is to hot (when I am trying to teach her the same lesson you did), she will still just put it in her mouth, its funny to watch really, her face is screwed up in pain but she will not spit it out, she is a compulsive eater as well as a lot of other things, this is the reason I automatically think of safety in everything.
/on topic mode
Just a couple of thoughts,
Why use a 12v, if a 6v is used it opens up a lot of drivers, giving dimming control 
Old laptop power suplies are cheap, usually 15v and around 4~5A, and they are certified.
As I said just thoughts
Cheers David
I think in the end people will use various supplies, my goal is to have a turn key device, you buy the parts on the list, assemble it and your good to go, and modifications are up to the builder.
that is a quite different situation David, and it must be very demanding to have a daughter like yours. My son is lazy, but when the gains are high (like not getting burned) he's a fast learner.
This design that another guy used on a model airplane has always intrigued me. The key component for me being how he mounted the XMLs onto copper pipe and runs coolant through that pipe. I could see a heat pipe functioning very well in this way for passive heat removal. Here is a link to the Model Airplane Headlight
IMO, the XHP70 is probably not the best emitter for this type of light. If you’re going to go through such trouble in building such a lamp, it might as well be worth it… and then some. Ive been running a very rare top-of-the line 97 CRI large Bridgelux at better than 7000 lumens (bounced light), and cant see going with anything less in my bed room or work area when I want excellent illumination for reading and projects. I got used to having bright even lighting on demand and find it much easier on the eyes. Its like opening the window curtains during a sunny day. :bigsmile: I cool the emitter with a used computer heat sink and a cheap 120mm low velocity fan that cant be heard unless Im very close to it. Even then, its not noticeable unless I listen for it. The high end constant current Meanwell LED drivers with PFC adjust input power to correct for the highest power factor (efficiency). I am getting a .99 - 1.0 power factor with my setup, which doesn’t get any better. Everything runs warm to the touch but never hot. Around 130 degrees F max. And of course, the light quality is the absolute very best I have ever witnessed from any man-made illumination source anywhere.
Im considering putting a few of the emitters with constant current Meanwell drivers up for sale, but the owners would be responsible for adequately cooling them. I could set them up for any constant current level up to the emitter max of 100 watts with a twist of the on-board pots.
Here’s my set-up and observations.
Thoughts?
The main point of the XHP70 is high concentration of brightness into a small spot - you only need that for directional lighting, like spotlights - or flashlights. Even for those, you have to be inventive for the reflector to avoid beam artifacts caused by the square shape with the dark cross in the middle. If you want to to indirect, soft lighting, the small package only makes good cooling harder to achieve.
So those BridgeLux, Nichia, and Cree LED arrays are the way to go for indirect lighting.
The Cree CXA series is the equivalent to the BridgeLux arrays:
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Landing-pages/CXA
The CXA3590 is available with a CRI of typical 95Ra for all(!) color temperatures (2700-6500K):
http://www.cree.com/LED-Components-and-Modules/Products/XLamp/Arrays-NonDirectional/XLamp-CXA3590
The highest bin for 3000K puts out 9931 Lumens @ 42V*3,6A :party:
The large COB arrays are also used in direct reflected and semi-direct reflected lighting solutions. Look up the next time you drive under a highway overpass with new lighting towers and you might find several of them atop a 40-60 foot pole.
When I recently looked into purchasing the Cree CXA3590, only 80 CRI and a few 77 volt versions were available. The high voltage requirements, limited number of drivers that can supply the requirement and low 80 CRI, along with the associated much greater potential electrocution hazards of 77 VDC are what kept me away (as advised from an acquaintance who manufactures custom large scale industrial LED luminary lighting solutions).
Also, lots of great info from the pot-growers and reef tank guys that put these arrays to some serious daily use. :bigsmile:
Your setup sounds very nice Flash, the goal here is a setup for a 12V fixture, which means any 12V chip(s) in the future would be easily swappable, and for reasonable cost, what would it cost to buy the chips you use, and are they available if a few dozen BLFers decide to build it?
Right now the biggest problem is the host, and picking a power supply, i have not had a chance to see if there is a meanwell supply that meets the requirements for this project. We would all like 97CRI emitters, and i hope they become widely available in future. Hopefully other supplies can be substituted for different LED chips with different voltage requirements once this project is built.
Anyone with host ideas please post them, it should be able to allow airflow over a heatsink, be widely available and decent cost.
Anyobdy have an idea where to get CXA3590 in CRI95 variation?
I found some online but the CRI is not listed?
I’m personally more inclined to go that way than XHP70 way, because we are talking about indirect lighting here, no need for a small die surface.
http://www.trentplastics.co.uk/2012/acrylic-tube-rod-bar/acrylic-tube/60mm-x-3mm-x-1000mm-clear-acrylic-tube/prod_504.html
http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10001927/1173707-5555100mm-aluminum-heatsink
then some sort of power supply, and then do some light sanding, or put some sort of diffuser film around the tube, the make some sort of stand on the bottom to keep it off the floor and act as a chimney, possibly by screwing into the bottom of the heatsink, a meter of chimney will cause enough airflow over the heatsink to dissapate 30 watts easily
but 97 CRI Emitters are widely available
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/BXRC-30H4000-F-03/976-1157-ND/3913132
$16 for 2500lumen 97 CRI Bridgelux Vero 18 series
Also there are CBO arrays from Cree, and Decor series from bridgelux, all with CRI>90
edit: There is the bigger bridgelux vero 29 CBOs, but their CRI is listed as 90, as opposed to 97 of the vero 18. This I have to check.
For Europe:
http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Cree-High-Power-LEDs/Cree-CXA3590.html
In CRI 95 neutral and warm white, not cheap though - €55.
A few “smaller” ones:
CXA2530 up to 3800 Lumen with CRI 90: http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Cree-High-Power-LEDs/Cree-CXA2530-warmwhite-3800lm.html
CXA1830 up to 3585 Lumen with CRI 95: http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Cree-High-Power-LEDs/Cree-CXA1830-warmwhite.html
Nichia NCSLJ216A up to 5516 Lumen with CRI 95: http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Nichia-High-Power-LEDs/Nichia-Chip-on-Board-Modul-NCSLJ216A-3245lm-warmwhite.html
Nichia NSBLL121A up to 3290 Lumen with CRI 90: http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Nichia-High-Power-LEDs/Nichia-Chip-On-Board-Modul-NSBLL121A-1935lm-warmwhite.html
OK so after a few days of researching I’m mostly leaning to Bridgelux Vero Decor Ultra series, with CRI97. The strongest emitter in this series with CRI97 is Vero 18, with cca 2500lumen, costing around $16
The reasons: the highest CRI I could find, FlahsPilot gave a good review to a similar bridgelux array, and price not to bad per lumen.
these are the available heatsinks (perhaps can be used for XHP70)
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en/optoelectronics/led-thermal-products/525429?k=bridgelux%20vero
These are the cri97 emitters:
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1615=28&FV=fff40008%2Cfff80354&k=bridgelux+vero&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=250
Bridgelux vero series datasheet:
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/DS34-Bridgelux-Vero-Decor-High-CRI-Data-Sheet.pdf
Well, my soldering iron bit the dust, so im going to pick one up tomorrow and see what I can put together with what i have laying around. Its mostly xmls so im going to see what the temperatures are like dumping 20ish watts into an xml will do. I have wrapped some paper around one of these its about a meter tall, and should work ok ish as a defuser, its kind of thick paper.
If you re measuring temeperature, I think it’s good to take following into consideration:
Ambient temperature (in the end it is the increase over ambient temperature at a certain power level, that matters)
Position of the heatsink - is it on the desk (little convection airflow), or standing freely in the air (convection possible)
current/voltage
Assuring repeatably good&identical contact of the mcpcb with the heatsink
As I’ve just learned - emitter could be non-optimally soldered to the mcpcb if it is not pressed down correctly when soldering, or has air pockets. Lead has much lower conductivity than aluminum&copper so it could mater a lot
These look great
Cree CXA1304 warmwhite 95 CRI 9v 10,6 W only 468 lumens, but i don’t want a monster 5000 lumens light indoors 
i just want nice high CRI LEDs
http://www.leds.de/en/High-Power-LEDs/Cree-High-Power-LEDs/Cree-CXA1304-warmwhite.html
Thanks for finding that leds.de shop, i have looked everywhere for these little 9v high CRI CREE LEDs.
XML t6 3c dtp running from a step down converter at 3.6v blew my last spare led trying to measure amperage, accidentally shorted it. it was running for about half an hour and it was barely warm, didn’t get to measure the temperature.
Like it, as i like the minimalistic style…