Hi everyone,
Having just recently joined the forum, I never realized that one could make their own flashlights with the parts so readily available.
I’ve been looking at installing this XM-L T6 Led Here
Into this convoy host Here
I understand I also need a driver but I’m not sure how to select one.
Will I need anything else?
So I was wondering if anyone could recommend me a driver and perhaps briefly explain how one selects a driver based on the volts/amps/size etc.
And if anyone knows of a simple tutorial regarding these kind of mods, please link me!
If you are buying new emitters. Buy latest generation. (XM-L2)
If you want a "5" tint (like you linked to). And are combining the emitter with a 3 amp driver or so. You might want it mounted on copper in order to get a little bit extra output out of it.
Here is a nice option with good CRI (Color rendering).
The most popular driver for flashlights is the Qlite 7135 3.04A driver I would say! Basically, a Cree XM-L/XM-L2 LED is "suppose" to be driven at 3A based on Cree's data, and this driver runs right at 3A, so it's like a match made in heaven. But you can run the XM-L2 at higher amps, albeit you might only get 30000 hours out of it instead of the 50000 Cree states.
Depending on how many LED's you want to run, just base that on how many amps your driver can put out. You also have to make sure the driver will fit inside the pill. The most common pill takes 17mm driver, which the Qlite is. That Convoy you chose already comes with a pill and reflector though!
One thing you want to make sure of, and DON'T MAKE THE MISTAKE I DID WHEN I FIRST STARTED BUILDING MY LIGHTS, is to make sure the positive and negative terminals on the LED that you solder the wire too, is shielded from the aluminum REFLECTOR by using these insulators/spacers on the LED to block the terminals from making contact with the aluminum reflector, and shorting out the driver. Seems impossible to short out the LED!
This is all the components you basically need to build your own flashlight, as well as the LED and host that you stated. That Convoy you chose is a classic host as well for building flashlights.
but....
If you really want to make a really nice flashlight with a really good driver, I suggest you personalize the driver here
and just plug in the modes you want, etc... and make the driver exactly how you want it!!!
lastly, FastTech is fine if you don't mind waiting weeks for your stuff to come in. But if you are in the United States, then I HIGHLY suggest you order your stuff from Mountain electronics.
Thank you! That tutorial is exactly what I’m looking for. I had no idea it was that simple, but I’m sure there are a lot of other things that I haven’t heard about in the field of DIY flashlights.
So for the convoy I linked, the pill is already provided right?
When picking an emitter or driver, if I am using 18650 (3.7v), I have to find an emitter that has a range that includes 3.7v right?
How about the driver?
Oh by the way, Mountain electronics also has the Convoy S3 Host in black or grey. You should get everything within a few days to a week, so you will still have all that modding adrenaline pumping through your veins and can get right to work!
An 18650 battery is 4,2V when fully charged and about 3V when most consider it pretty much empty. Most of the capacity is usually above 3,5V.
The most common emitters used in flashlights are usually driven at around 2,7-3,6V depending on the output and emitter type. So a single cell combined with a single emitter is a fairly good match in terms of voltage.
The driver circuit takes care of the voltage difference ,at least as long as long as the battery have too high voltage, otherwise you will loose output. Different types of drivers behave differently.. Example, if you have two batteries in series, you will need a driver that can handle twice the input voltage.
Besides the stuff described in the P60 howto. Make sure to not solder the driver circuit too close to the pill threads in the Convoy host.
Like mentioned blfdemigod, if you are in the US. mtnelectronics is a nice place to shop if you want stuff fast. I shop there sometimes too. Great store. :)
Thanks for the advice!
Unfortunately I don’t live in the states so I imagine shipping will take just as long.
I am happy to wait for shipping from DX or fasttech but I will look around eBay for Australian stores (although I don’t think there are that many specialty dealers).
Regardless thank you both for the help and links.
My main concerns with DIY is heat transfer. How do I ensure that my 18650 doesn’t over heat and blow up.
And can a AA run any XM-L emitters or is there another line for AA/AAA’s?
AA can run XM-L’s, but in a “boost” circuit fashion, usually under 1A unless you stack them. Best way to keep from overheating 18650’s get quality batteries and don’t run em at crazy amps, most “daily driver” drivers run below 3A so you will be good to go.
Right so when picking you driver, I should find one that delivers >3A for my 18650.
Also a lot of drivers say for example, 3.7v.
Does that mean that once my 18650 falls from 4.2v at full charge to >3.7v, it won’t be able to run anymore?
And what exactly do you mean by boost? Will it call for a different driver?
boost takes the volts of an AA or AAA 1.5vdc, and boosts it up to higher voltage (kinda like the portable power units, boosting 4.2vdc to 5vdc for charging USB…same thing but using 1.5vdc, usually pulling more current from the battery that it is delivering
The linear regulator types take the battery voltage and regulate it thru the chips
3A is max power for general purpose, sure you can run MUCH higher currents to a properly heatsinked emitter but stock 3A is about the most you want to push
Li Ion nominal voltage is 3.7vdc, meaning average volts, max charge is 4.2vdc, safe discharge is 2.7vdc, average it out…3.7~, when battery volts get to 3.6 or lower the regulator will still deliver the voltage, it will just be weaker so the light emitted will be weaker, this way a dimming flashlight you know to soon swap out for fresh battery