It needs to go onto a KelTec KS7 which has a pic’ rail. Tail cap activation and reverse clicky are musts, as is rechargeability. I prefer replaceable cells and not USB charging but my mind isn’t closed if the light is well sealed. Flood type beam is OK with high output, a beam with throw not so much, after all, it’s a shotgun. Hybrid beam OK; hot spot and flood combined. Short is good so that it doesn’t extend past the muzzle very far or at all. The KS7 is fairly short (bullpup configuration) and there isn’t much distance between the slide handle and the muzzle for flashlight length. I think that makes the length negotiable.
The shotgun is a pump (lightweight so think recoil), so my plan is to mount it off of the pic rail at a 45° angle down so that when the slide handle is forward my thumb is there for activation. I also don’t want or need a pad for activation.
I don’t need a Rolls Royce quality light with the associated price, just a reliable one that will last. It might be used for HD, so top marks for reliability.
The Streamlight weapon lights have been a standard for years.
Most all these type of lights use CR123 batteries.
I recently got one of the Olight versions. I’m not real pleased with the attachment via throw lever.
PIC rails often are not quite standard. And KelTec is one of the worst offenders in this area.
The little switch that selects light to laser is way too easy to move by accident.
But it was WAY cheaper than other name brand green laser lights.
Seems quite sturdy. I’ve yet to put it to the recoil test.
The Wowtac A1S and the Sofirn SP 31 fit the bill with dual switches. Set the side switch to the power level and use the rear for on/off with a full press or a half press gives you momentary on. I put the wowtac on a rifle after watching a video of a guy throwing his off a bridge and it still working. YMMV . I have tested it only a little and it did not flicker or change settings. I only use it for HD. If I go to the range it comes off with quick detach ring. There are threads hear about potting and maybe this is an option, I don’t know. Here is a torture test of the Atactical A1S which is the same light as the Wowtac. The name was changed. Still made by ThruNite. He tapes it to a hammer and uses it to drive nails into a pressure treated 2x4. Then he drop tests it, drives over it and submerges it. Should stand up to recoil.
Depending on what your budget it the Klarus 360X3 is a nice flooder with “tactical” (whatever that means) switches. I got the dome-sliced on mine and a warm XHP70.2 swapped in for more bit more throw and tighter spot, but stock emitter should be good too. Also comes with decent Klarus battery and USB charging. I don’t know if you want a light that only lives on the weapon rail, or one that you can pop off the shotty and use handheld as well sometimes.
I like the 1” (I think) scope mounts with quick detach on the picatinny rail so I can take them off if need be and use as a handheld light.
Factory website: Klarus 360X3
Vinh’s modified version for not that much more if you want to pic you Led tint for hunting/night vision preservation: Skylumen 360x3vn
I’ve build many C8Fs for mine and some buddies 6.8 SPC ARs and a couple of higher power rifles (using the old 18650 hosts in a 1” diameter— fits right into 1” fast connect scope rings that go right into the rail). I have also used a C8A and KD Litker C8.2 and all have worked well for me after modding (some, but not all) with stiffer, larger springs.
I’d consider the new 21700 C8F (I’m going to try one this fall). The drivers all hold memory at full output now, so no need to modify them. Reverse clicky is standard (although I love and use Lexel’s FET tail switch on mine). I plan on using fast connect 30mm rings (with shims, the rings at that diameter are a bid big).
In fact, you can use a high drain T30, T40 or Molicel P42a and buy the C8F host, LEDs of your choice and MCPCB from Sofirnlight.com and just go direct drive with no driver (just use a simple 22mm board in it’s place). You don’t have low voltage protection with this build, but you get a LOT of light without worrying about driver modes- always on Turbo so no pesky step down too. But have to know when to say when on run times. I have built five of these hosts- all held up fine for up to a 270 (about 15-17 fl/lbs of recoil depending on the load)
For me it’s usually pigs at 2am off the 6.8 SPC and it’s all over in a few minutes anyway so the batteries are never discharged much below 4V after a hunt anyway. And my AR handle allows me to store a battery in it- just in case
Might be more light than you need (size wise too), but mine reaches out there past 200 yards with a very nice wide spill (so I can see and track several pigs at once through decent glass- typically 4x or 6x power scope). My AR weighs in about 8 lbs with a clip loaded, C8F and Weaver Classic 6x on top. I also have an optional red dot (Romeo 5) for the close in work on top of that scope.
I would have gone with the Klarus but I didn’t see that it allowed a lower output from the base switch and 3200l would be far too much. I think I understood that correctly. The Sofirn SP31 is simple and I think will do what I want w/o blinding me indoors if I ever need to use it for HD; it has memory. For $26 (Sofirn site) I just can’t go wrong, but if I do I have another decent flashlight and I’ll try again for a firearm mounted light. I’ll mount it with a QD mount to the pic’ rail somehow.
One thing… no light is 100% “right” and trade-offs need to be made. What’s new, right?
Might be hard to find now but a Solarforce L2m with your choice of malkoff/sporttac/lumensfactory drop ins would fit your needs perfectly. In fact I run one on one my my pumps. Alternatively you could run a G2 or 6P with McClicky and the above drop ins.