Ummm, the XP-Ls (L2 chips) still have bond-wires, no? They ain’t flip-chips like the evil G3.
Okay I think I understand now. I’m still wrapping my head around all of the LED components terminology. I will definitely give that a shot, thank you.
Is it difficult to tell if they have bond wires? Will scraping the phosphor damage these wires?
XP-L gen1 have bond wires, but XP-L2s certainly are G3 style flip chips…
Koef3 actually demonstrates the phosphor/dome removal in that thread
Right, but you said they were XP-Ls, not XP-L2s.
More confusing because XP-L uses the L2 chips, and XP-L2 uses L3 chips.
(Predictably, though, XM-L uses Ls, XM-L2 uses L2s.)
Ugh, my head hurts.
If you see a discrete yellow chip (square) in the clear covering, it’s the older style with bond-wires.
If the entire thing is yellow that it looks like the whole mess was spraypainted with phosphor, it’s the flip-chip without bond wires.
Those teeny tiny pure Au wires are what delivers current to the chip. If gone, it’s like snipping off the power-cord to your toaster.
Flip-chips have the contact area at the bottom of the chip, and light comes out the opposite side, on top. Or the current comes in the top, and light comes out the bottom. Depends how you look at it.
Here ya go…
I would do some Amperage draw test before mounting XTEs —- XPLs can handle a lot more current —— you might end up with Blue Smoke you don’t want
More than likely the MCPCB is aluminum
Is it just the XM-L2 this phosphor trick works on?
No. This works on most ‘flip-chip’ emitters. XML2 would not be included in this classification.
Examples that are.
CREE:
XTE
XPG3
XPL2
‘HE’ models
MTG2
Most if not all Nichia’s relevant to blf
None from Luminus, though the SFT40 can be safely scraped clean.
Luxeon HL2X, V, V2 etc
Samsung LH351x
Where did I say that?
Also, the XML3 is not a flip chip design. There are still bond wires, but they did cover the entire package with phosphor.
Right, I meant to write XPL2. I’ll give it a go. Might have another XPL2 around somewhere I can try it on too.
Where do you guys order your 365nm UV chips? I’m gonna get going on building a UV dive light, as well.
You can get the Seoul Viosys from Simon at Convoy with choice of board size https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32951600559.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.38.2e9024bfHcSUY5. You may be able to get individual diodes at Mouser or Digikey if you want multiple emitters. The best 365nm leds are the Nichias but I don’t know where to get them these days. Once you pick a host search on Aliexpress for a ZWB2 filter in the proper size. Hmm on second thought I don’t know how that would go with a dive light where strength is important. May need to stick with the chosen front glass.
Scientist, thanks for the recommendations, I have been looking at ZWB2 filters. I was just checking out your UV triple build post the other day. Great info.
So I received the first dive light in the mail. For the life of me I cannot take this damn think apart to get at the emitters, I have tried clamping where there look to be seams and trying to twist it open but it just won't give. I even tried heating some areas with a small heat gun, to no avail. You guys have any tips?
Some images of the head:
Being a “dive” light they may have glued the bezel with a special glue or more of it in an attempt to preserve/increase waterproofing. You might be able to just break it loose with oomph by using a strap wrench with a rubber strap (but one with a strong handle and pivot-rivets). If you can hold it securely with some padding in a vise, then use the strap wrench. You may need to use heat just as you would with some threadlockers…gentle even heating with any torch will do it, but don’t overdo it or else you’ll start to discolor the anodizing (and if it happens to use a plastic reflector and you overheat toooo much there’s the risk of damaging that). Maybe try again with the heat gun and give it a little more temp or time. Strap wrench is a godsend, though, much better than any pliers, and virtually zero chance of dinging up the aluminum.
Most of us hate glued threads but it’s getting more common now even on inexpensive lights.
Pretty much what I was going to suggest. It helps to clamp the head in a vise. I have seen some dedicated individuals here on BLF make shaped wooden clamps so you can really clamp it tight in a vise. Then use a good strap wrench on the bezel. Steady hard pressure may be able to break it loose. One of the threads said he blowtorched it for half an hour to try to loosen the glue and eventually it worked. Of course he really wasn’t worried about how it looked afterward, so as advised be careful with the heat.
Okay, thanks for the tips. I was able to make these suggestions work. I built simple jigs using a hole saw:
Then I used a lot of clamps and some latex sponge to get a solid grip and break the adhesive:
But now that I have it open I can't figure out how to remove the reflector:
I tried prying at it for a while to no avail. Should I try heat?
This looks fun. You’re going to have one biazin UV light when you get it working.
I’m guessing some glue from the bezel got under there and is holding it. How about running an Xacto blade or some thin equivalent between the reflector and head to see if you can break it free? Be careful with prying as you don’t want to ding up that fancy reflector.
Working slowly and with small steps will be the way to go.
It would be nice if your pictures were posted just like every body else does
I'm still figuring out how to insert images. I'll try embedding. Also, Scientist, this is for the blue excitation light, I'm still unsure how I'll do the UV one.