So I’m not really sure if it’s glued. Maybe it’s just thermal paste that makes it stick. As I said I just took a look and didn’t touch it.
Hmmmm, both of mine have screws retaining the board… and some good thermal paste, but not glued…
The board will appear to be wider than the opening, the trick is to put the one groove on the edge of the bezel mount area, then push the board toward the groove, and walk it out that way. Don’t know if this makes sense, but you cannot get a circle of the same size through a circle, but the grooves allow you to “walk” the one circle through the other.
My MCPCB (LED board) says ‘skilhunt’ and it’s smaller than 16 mm diameter (I think it’s 14.5mm).
Reflowed an XM-L2 5A2 on the stock MCPCB yesterday and i quite like the result. 
The H15 makes some strange noises though, especially on high mode, sounds a bit like a gas leak or something, and it’s not consistent either.
But it’s not loud, i can live with it.
Like a buzzing sound? Inductor noise maybe, happens sometimes with boost drivers…
More like a hissing sound actually.
Could it be the tails pring (a coil basicaly) interacting with the tail magnet?
I already posted this in the’what did u mod today’ thread but I finaly had the nerves to do a led swap. The xml I got from FT had some issues: the board was thinner and there’s a small speck of solder in the corner of the led that prevent the tir from sitting snug around the led. But my hands were itching so decided to solder in the nichia. The board has the same size as the original one so I got it in pretty easy. Because there are no screw holes like the other h15’s posted here I had to eye-ball it to center the led. I think I did a pretty good job with it but I should probably get ot out again as I had no thermal paste and kinda re-used the one from the original board. I’d still like to try out the FT cml though. Can someone recommend some solder paste and/or flux for reflowing the led? I believe I saw somwhere that for reflowing I’m gonna need something different than what should be used for flowing a new led unto a new boatd. Am i correct?
I still hate to have to long click twice to turn of the light…
I did the short tube mod as well as LED swap on my h03
Now there is a XML U3-3D from intl outdoor inside, way better tint than the original U3-3B or C which yellow green tint
For solder use one with lead and flux core
Paste is a bit easier to handle but I use normal wire as my paste did dry out years ago, it doesnt last long, while solder wire lasts for many years without a problem
The trick is to tap on the dome to push too much solder
If some sticks on the side of the LED use a soldering iron with a clean tip to get it melt and stick on it
Reflowing the LED
first heat it up on my induction stove with a 10mm iron plate and 5mm aluminium plate with thermal paste on top of it, till the solder melts
then removing old solder with a qtip and regulating the heat down
the LED is also heated up on a clean part of the metal plate
adding Sn60Pb37Ag3 rosin flux core solder or solder paste, the 0,5mm solder wire is not easy to melt as the temperature is not much above the melt point
I use the one with lead as its melting point is lower and thats less stress for the emitter
placing the hot star on it, let it pull on its own in the centered position
then tap on the star to push out solder to close the tiny gap to increase heat transfer
and this makes all 3 pads covered on 100% of the surface with solder
putting Arctic silver on the body, was too much but it will squeeze out
placing the Star in the head, it is a bit bigger than the anodized hole so I had to put it in sideways, thats why the star is not round all the way
the arctic silver squeezed out at the holes, but wasnt enough to do on the rounded edges
Looks good!
Have you noticed… the last few h03s I’ve had did not have brass inserts in the bezel screw holes?
Yeah but the screws take almost no torge so there is nothing wrong not having em just cut in the aluminium, they are just screwed in one time at factory and thats it for most lights
A nice thing I noticed is the DTP star in the Skilhunt H03