Actually I peel 2 of them because they had glue and some sponge from the powerbanks.
I have some shrink tunes at home so I can fix that if necessary.
It okay that they have the + bump? And that the bumps are different?
Cause I’ve seen 18650 that has flat at both sides.
About solarforce, 30$ is too much currently. As I said,
If ~10-15$ flashlight won’t be good enough I’ll but a better one,
So I’ll probably take ultrafire 501/502b.
I just need to know if my batteries will work with it and with the chrager I mentioned.
If the + bump is the highest point of the cell it will work in every case if that isn’t the case some flashlights/driver which don’t have a spring on the positive side can’t make contact. If the batteries are quality cells can be only found out if you have the shrink wrap and Google the numbers which are written on it.
If they have a too small bump to make contact you could make a solder blob on them, if you have a soldering iron.
Thanks!
I understand that smooth reflector won’t be good if the led is perfectly centered,
What I assume will happen in a cheap flashlight.
Can I replace the reflector itself or replacing it means replacing the whole drop in?
The orangepeel reflector give a smoother hotspot and spill, smooth reflectors sometimes produce rings which you can see if you shine on a white wall. In nature it often is no problem but some dislike it.
Yes, These 502b are p60 Hosts, that means you can simply change the dropin.
You can also build a dropin by yourself if you want.
These Dropins have the disadvantage to be not ideal in thermal management, because they naturally have a bit of air between them and the flashlighthost. some people wrap them in aluminum/copperfoi to make better contact to the housing and to be able to drive the LEDs with higher currents… Search the forum for info. http://flashlightwiki.com/P60 http://flashlightwiki.com/DIY_P60
I had some time yesterday so I saw some reviews on youtube,
and I wasn’t very impressed of the wf-501B throw. (Curenntly it’s 25$ for everything I need.)
I saw the ultrafire C8 which is much better thrower,
but but almost couldn’t find any with 1 Mode (I defenitly need 1 mode only)
Is it possible to mod 5/3 mode to 1 (High only)?
I saw this guide -
but i’m not sure this is the right way… he removed the driver.
It is possible to mod it to one mode, the way this guy makes it is just a direct drive…you often can simply remove a capacitor or do other mods if you have a soldering iron…
As everybody said a c8 is the way to go for a small thrower… Convoy c8 is great value for money, driver is well known and modeable. 13.99$ with coupon: NEWC8CM
3xaaa to 18650 adapters onlly work in lights which are made for it. Theses adapters are usually around 21mm wide and don’t fit in a 18650 battery tube which is around 18-19mm wide…
Defenitly buying it. (isn’t this the same as Ultrafire C8?)
Can I mod it to 1 mode with soldering iron?
What does it means 2 group mode?
Do I tell them which I want or I have both and have the ability to switch?
The form is similiar on all c8 but the convoy has superb quality. Much thicker material, better anodizement and goodthreads.
These convoys have a nanjg105c driver which has two mode groups in stock. You can switch between the groups if you switch the light on in low, wait some seconds until it blinks, half press and now you are in the other group.
It can be modded to one mode by bypassing the controller, that would give you always high 2.8A.
These drivers also can be reprogramed with other firmware which has your dreammodes. You will need a computer with USB and a USB programmer for some bucks…this would be the best because you would maintain batteryvoltage detection.
Once you have your light you can simply make a new thread, I guess this one here just gets read by us two
This is one option, not sure if it is the best solution but it will work 100%.
Check this pictures.
The leg PB1 of the controller switches the 7135s on, if you now connect this with VCC it is always high…
A much nicer way would still to reprogram that controller or to buy one which is reprogrammed to one mode with battery monitoring…
Just to be thorough, while you’re correct that using DD (“Direct Drive”) costs you ALL the driver protections, that’s not exactly what Werner suggested.
Werner has the 7135s turn on when the tailcap switch makes, so you don’t get any modes, including the low-voltage mode, but you DO get regulated current for longer runtime, so it’s not exactly DD, his way. You can still see it get dimmer when it’s time to change the battery. For the momentary use you imply, you might even get through more than one work shift, Werner’s way.
I think you’ll still get a blink in the recoil cycle, which might not be totally corrected by a second tailcap spring… If you don’t get a single-mode C8, you could use the mode-switch behavior to test your springs. If you can put enough springs in to both not smash the battery and hold the connection through recoil, the mode shouldn’t change, meaning it also won’t blink in single-mode operation.
Just my prediction, anyway. You’ll soon have the facts in your hands.
