he didn't get batteries he's using ones I gave him.
I took the bridge out of those legs. It had a low/strobe/sos mode for a minute, I took it apart again and looked, put it back together and now it won't turn on :/
i I can bypass it and get 2.5A from the bottom of the battery to the + on the led
Ok so... The reason the light didn't work at the end was because of the tailcap switch, it broke, again. I think I got it this time it wasn't sitting flat on the board, so I popped both sides loose and re soldered them After making sure it was sitting perfectly flat.
so the circuit board/driver might be ok, but it was too late haha.. I already found a piece of delrin, turned it down to house a spring that is actually a helicoil cut in half, and one wire going down to the + post on the emitter board. I bridged the - side straight to the copper pill.
Its drawing upward ward of 3.1 amps with spikes As high as 3.4 with a battery reading 3.16V.
I'll probably leave this light the way it is for now and see what happens when the other one comes in. It's every bit as bright as my p60 now, possibly a hair brighter, but it (the p60) still only reads 1.8A?!?!?!!!!
I guess the next phase would be to overdrive it, I think that's what the boost drivers are for isn't it? I don't care about battery life I have a bunch of them.
So the battery is directly driving the emitter now? If so, that’s as much as you’ll get. A boost driver ups the voltage at the expense of current. You can’t get any more power than your battery can provide.
You should be using a fully charged battery for taking current readings.
Boost drivers increase voltage, an example would be when driving a 3.2 vf emitter from a 1.5 volt Alkaline or 1.2 volt NI-MH.
The first couple posts were all from the same fully charged battery. when I got done with the light all I had was that one battery on me.
I just want to apologize to you guys lol, I have a problem, and I really can't stop myself, and not sure if I even want to if I could. I like to 'tinker'.......with everything. I really like this forum you guys are great so far and the search function works very well! I do some stupid stuff occasionally...well alot... but eventually I will get it right, and usually when I do, it's so right it's not right! My wife is glad my focus has shifted a little lately, so she unknowingly thanks you guys too. Flashlights are a whole lot cheaper than custom cars. :) When I started this thread I didn't know anything about "direct drive," it popped up in a search and when I accidentally bypassed the driver the first time I wanted to see that fully functional... I'll probably keep this one how it is until I get some GOOD batteries and screw up modify the s7 when it gets here. Should know more about these current batteries soon, I received the XTAR vc2 charger today, it gives mAH ratings.
No worries, we all start somewhere.
As soon as I was old enough to hold a screwdriver I would take everything apart just to see how it worked, as you can imagine my parents were not to happy about it either… until I started repairing everything that broke and saving them lots of cash.
Alright a little update. The LED is accidentally dedomed, and where I thought I had fried it, it had actually twisted when I had the pill so hot bypassing and direct driving it. I got the pill hot again, twisted the led back and let it cool, and now it works fine. The problem with it now is the contact pad on the pcb, the piece of copper the + wire would solder to is ripped off. I scratched the board back toward the emitter to show a little more copper but it's impossible for me to get a good solder blob on it that will stick.
So I'm excited to have a good working fully dedomed xml2-U2 laying around but Kinda mad at myself for ruining the pcb. Maybe I'll use the LED on a future light? Ive been reading up on how someone just mounted the LeD to a solid copper disk, but I don't know what he's talking about when he says he filed something on the LED down to reveal spots to solder to on the corners?!
The driver board may still be good but I'm going to use it to practice stacking drivers. I have a "build" in mind for a modified convoy c8 that I want to try but I don't know how if it will even work.