Yes. I have a basic multimeter. I also have access to some pretty high end stuff at work - all the way up to multi GS/S network scopes. Ironically enough, considering the next question I am going to ask you, I have been responsible for swapping out a small battery pack on a hybrid SUV and installing a large battery pack that allowed us to convert it to a plug in hybrid configuration.
No. What would be your recommendation for how to measure the current draw? The battery pack is a dual 18650 setup in a parallel configuration. The cord that goes between the battery pack and the light appears to be sealed, so I cannot easily get a current probe around one of the wires. Should I get a couple of 18650 trays (I need them for my B6 charger) and temporarily patch them into the unit? Any easier ways? What do I do with the current numbers once I have them?
Since you’re talking about doing a remote battery pack, now is probably the right time to order extension cables. There’s a lot of possibilities, but a couple of sku 32751 at dx.com would work well. They’re waterproof and click together firmly. They’ll take a while to arrive, but I don’t know a vendor stateside.
First of all, your cells should be great for that light. I doubt that its pulling more than 2A.
But on how to measure current (provided you know how to measure current):
You need some magnets and good testing leads (thick wires with alligator clips). Then hook it all up with just one cell, fire the light up and read the amps.
Magnets/leads inbound. I can do either a direct measurement with my multi-meter, a current probe, or use a shunt inline. I'll probably do all three just to see how it differs.
Inbound - Thanks!! I ended up getting one of their battery packs as well. I am expecting to replace the batteries in the pack, but the waterproofed case should be helpful until I can fashion one for myself.
I put some different diffusion films on the lens and finally settled on DC Fix Sand on both sides of the lens. I may try the wide angle lens w/diffusion film on one side.
Thanks for the warning about DX shipping. They are horrible! They are still "working on putting the order together".
Seriously???
I nixed the battery pack because it was OOS and they couldn't give me an ETA for when it would be in stock.
My first run w/the system was on Sunday night. The first 6.3 miles was run w/o the light. The last 12.3 miles was w/the light. The performance was a bit marginal because I ran the system on the low setting. I was not sure of the XXXfire battery capacity, current drain of either setting, or the effect of cold weather. Once I have the Panasonic batteries and finish building my laboratory power supply, I plan to characterize the entire system.
Wow…. really? that sounds like a lot to me…. When i ran even lighter lights were a PITA for me. Few headlights are well designed for running, light, well balanced and powerful enough. I used to do trail running , occasionally some skyrunning, and found out that sometimes it was better to use low outputs, because too high ones just killed the contrast and rocks and other obstacles turned flat. I’d say my headlights are around half weight without being ultralight. I should check it though…