Hi CRI headlamp. Modded or stock?

I am using Noctigon XP16 V2 MCPCB that has appropriate footprint, the problem is that every optics(TIR lens, reflector) I tried is made to attach to 50x50 XM-L2 body. And when smaller diode is being used it fails to center itself and what’s worse the MCPCB can move freely from side to side with enough shaking even when the flashlight is fully assembled.

Did you add thermal paste? I can hardly remove some MCPCBs I worked on once already because that stuff holds them in place so well.

It sounds like height of the reflector might be causing the artifacts so maybe try shimming it up a bit at a time? Maybe expoxy around the very edge where it would sit around the emitter base and sand down till it’s focused?

Sounds like you need these

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1615398958.html?storeId=330416&spm=2114.12010612.8148356.6.453b5ad2kURpO3

I’ve used some of these before with the LH351D:
Aliexpress link
(hope that link works)

I put them in a Convoy H1 and it seemed to center just fine for me (made for 3.5 X 3.5 footprint LEDs). Not sure if these will fit for you in the Skilhunt (don’t have one) but if your H03 uses a 17mm reflector/TIR, this would probably fit.

They have some with different holders (the white plastic bit) they call a “stent” but they are removable.

I didn’t, there was already some thermal compound in place. I’ll try removing old thermal paste and adding Arctic Cooling MX-4 instead. I also thought about using thermal glue around the edges of MCPCB to stick it to the metal, but after that removing MCPCB definitely won’t be something as simple as it is now.

Looks like you’re right I’ll give it a try if I won’t be able to find a suitable insulation gasket.

Thanks a lot, that’s exactly what I need.

Conical stent may actually fit though I am not sure, as it is a little bit higher than the original one, 10mm vs 9.7mm. Anyway thank you for sharing your experience, I was thinking about buying Convoy H1 for modding because H03 as a modding kit seems a little bit pricey for me.
——

By the way, does anybody know where can I buy the transparent o-ring that insulates Skilhunt H03 bezel?

Sorry, I’m late to the party! But if you’re still looking for modding info on the H1, I’ve got some stuff in this thread that might be of interest if you’re still thinking about getting an H1 to mod. I’m curious to hear how things ended up.

Hi, gchart.
Thanks, I was inspired by your Convoy H1 modding thread and indeed found a lot useful stuff there. But in the end, I settled on Skillhunt H03R. I bought two of them. Swapped stock Cree XM-L2 to HiCRI Samsung LH351D on one of them and maybe I’ll replace stock driver with a custom buck driver in the future. The second Skillhunt is ready for Nichia E21A mod, I already bought a custom 12V boost driver for it and soldered 4 E21As on the MCPCB (It was a royal pain btw, especially cleaning all of the flux residue). I’ll also probably solder a spring bypass because I doubt that Skillhunt’s default spring can handle the current that 12W driver draws.

Interesting. How does the LH351D perform under the beaded lens? That’s if your H03R has that beaded lens flap thingy. I am underwhelmed by the beam quality of my 4000K & 5000K LH351D emitters in reflector lights. And I have sliced many of them successfully which greatly improves the beam but renders them useless in lights where I need a lot of lumens. I am looking to get the H03 and also make a high CRI 1000 lumen with Anduril mod.

H03R doesn’t have a removable diffuser, only H03F does.(I don’t advise buying H03F, because the diffuser tends to break and it is really hard to find a replacement for it). But I have almost all optics available for H03, e.g. OP reflector(stock), beaded TIR optics(20°, 30°, 45°, 60°), smooth TIR optics(30°, 45°), and as for the LH351D performance under beaded TIR lens, it’s great. No visible artifacts whatsoever, just a lot of pure white spilled light, the spill depends on the optics angle.

To drive HiCRI LH351D to 1000 lumen you’ll need more than 3A of current, dissipating all the produced heat won’t be easy for H03’s small body.

Thanks for the advice, I’m looking at the H03… I have optics on order too, so I’m going to experiment a bit. Lexel’s Anduril driver works well in the H03, or so I’ve heard. The thermal regulation in the Attiny chips works well in the lights I’ve modded with his drivers. His H03 driver has enough AMC’s for the ramp to drive the LH351D quite bright… Not even sure it will be necessary to use turbo… Maybe… I’ll see…

That’s in interesting build you are going to do. Tamagotchi’s buck and boost drivers are rarely used here, maybe mostly due to the language barrier and the high price. If I may have two questions: how many lumens will it have approximately on turbo and how low is the lowest firefly mode compared eg. to the 0.01lm of a ZL or the ~ 0.14lm of the Wizard Pro? I’m stuck between modding a H03 (+boost driver) or Wizard Pro with the E21A module, but a true low firefly is my highest priority.

Who has mod succesfully? Can share your experience… which is better LH351D or Sst20?

For throw and absolute best red color accuracy, high CRI SST-20.

For flood and brightness, LH351D.

While the quality does seem top notch, I am very disappointed that it doesn’t fit ANY of my 14500 cells. They are all too long to allow the tailcap to make contact.

Used SST-20 in H03. Yes, color rendering is about perfect , but beam is to narrow for me , even with 60 degree optic, harder to center and it have some artifacts. So i stick with old good, yellowish 90cri XM-L2 from Kaidomain. Im talking about 3000k LEDs

how does the beam look? nice flooder beam profile? But, I probably think LH351D would be kind a better one…

Link/part number? I’ve seen the warm XML2’s but I didn’t notice any that were the high CRI.

Good luck with your experiments. :slight_smile:

This is a 12W driver with 1A of current in turbo(red mode), so the flashlight will have around 1240(D220 bin) led lumens. As for the lowest firefly mode I don’t know the exact flux value and I don’t have equipment that can measure it with enough precision, it’s probably something between 0.1lm and 0.2lm, maybe even lower.

In my opinion LH351D(at least the bin that I have) is the best choice. First of all, LH351D gives a lot of spill which is good for a headlamp. Second, It’s way more efficient then hiCRI SST20(J4), for example at 2A LH351D(9070) will produce almost 53% more lumens than sst20 and will have 57% more lumens per watt, that’s a huge difference in the luminous flux and heat emission. The only minor trade off that you have to take into consideration is that LH351D(9070) has a slightly lower CRI than SST20(j4).

XM-L2 3000K
“Highest-Performing, Commercially Available, Single-Die LED”… bla bla.
Bought it a few years ago… was written in description it have 92cri. Now not. Who knows

Someone is mention to me suggesting me cree xm-l2 3000k has high cri…how its compare to LH351D???