Interesting. How does the LH351D perform under the beaded lens? That’s if your H03R has that beaded lens flap thingy. I am underwhelmed by the beam quality of my 4000K & 5000K LH351D emitters in reflector lights. And I have sliced many of them successfully which greatly improves the beam but renders them useless in lights where I need a lot of lumens. I am looking to get the H03 and also make a high CRI 1000 lumen with Anduril mod.
H03R doesn’t have a removable diffuser, only H03F does.(I don’t advise buying H03F, because the diffuser tends to break and it is really hard to find a replacement for it). But I have almost all optics available for H03, e.g. OP reflector(stock), beaded TIR optics(20°, 30°, 45°, 60°), smooth TIR optics(30°, 45°), and as for the LH351D performance under beaded TIR lens, it’s great. No visible artifacts whatsoever, just a lot of pure white spilled light, the spill depends on the optics angle.
To drive HiCRI LH351D to 1000 lumen you’ll need more than 3A of current, dissipating all the produced heat won’t be easy for H03’s small body.
Thanks for the advice, I’m looking at the H03… I have optics on order too, so I’m going to experiment a bit. Lexel’s Anduril driver works well in the H03, or so I’ve heard. The thermal regulation in the Attiny chips works well in the lights I’ve modded with his drivers. His H03 driver has enough AMC’s for the ramp to drive the LH351D quite bright… Not even sure it will be necessary to use turbo… Maybe… I’ll see…
That’s in interesting build you are going to do. Tamagotchi’s buck and boost drivers are rarely used here, maybe mostly due to the language barrier and the high price. If I may have two questions: how many lumens will it have approximately on turbo and how low is the lowest firefly mode compared eg. to the 0.01lm of a ZL or the ~ 0.14lm of the Wizard Pro? I’m stuck between modding a H03 (+boost driver) or Wizard Pro with the E21A module, but a true low firefly is my highest priority.
While the quality does seem top notch, I am very disappointed that it doesn’t fit ANY of my 14500 cells. They are all too long to allow the tailcap to make contact.
Used SST-20 in H03. Yes, color rendering is about perfect , but beam is to narrow for me , even with 60 degree optic, harder to center and it have some artifacts. So i stick with old good, yellowish 90cri XM-L2 from Kaidomain. Im talking about 3000k LEDs
This is a 12W driver with 1A of current in turbo(red mode), so the flashlight will have around 1240(D220 bin) led lumens. As for the lowest firefly mode I don’t know the exact flux value and I don’t have equipment that can measure it with enough precision, it’s probably something between 0.1lm and 0.2lm, maybe even lower.
In my opinion LH351D(at least the bin that I have) is the best choice. First of all, LH351D gives a lot of spill which is good for a headlamp. Second, It’s way more efficient then hiCRI SST20(J4), for example at 2A LH351D(9070) will produce almost 53% more lumens than sst20 and will have 57% more lumens per watt, that’s a huge difference in the luminous flux and heat emission. The only minor trade off that you have to take into consideration is that LH351D(9070) has a slightly lower CRI than SST20(j4).
XM-L2 3000K
“Highest-Performing, Commercially Available, Single-Die LED”… bla bla.
Bought it a few years ago… was written in description it have 92cri. Now not. Who knows
Before thinking about HiCRI you have to decide what CCT (correlated color temperature) is the best for your needs, because 3000k is definitely not neutral white, it has a pronounced yellow/orange tint. In terms of CRI, it seems that this CREE XM-L2 T3 7A3 is not a high CRI diode, at best it might be CRI80 according to the datasheet, while LH 351D( SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6 ) is CRI90.
Sorry. have no 351D to compare , but here
Left : XM-L2 7A3 ; bought from Kaidomain 2 years ago
Right : SST-20 J4 HB4 95CRI; bought from intl-outdoor 3month ago
Both 3000K