High CRI, How important is it really?

Not all. Just read datasheets.

Sellers don’t give a f@#^ what you want or what is better for you, they sell what is profitable. They investing big money in marketing to sell useless crap for stupid people. If you have no knowledge what are you buying in most cases you’ll get outdated product. LOW CRI IS OBSOLETE :slight_smile:

You are right, I checked the datasheet for this led and the minimum is still 70. There is 90+ CRI for 5700K but it must be super hard to find.
You can’t know the exact serial number of the LED, even most sellers doesn’t even know that. It is most likely to be the lowest CRI grade because its cheaper and you get more lumens.

I have noticed over the last couple of months that all the High CRI lights are showing more and more “Out of Stock”, so there`s definitely increasing market demand for them.

Yes they advertising “more lumens” , but they don’t write in advertisement: “crappy blueish, low color rendering, eyes damaging lumens”
What i can say: DO NOT BUY SNAKE OIL :smiley:

Olight likes that while claiming most efficient driver title...i wonder how efficient would be if they throw 90CRI emitter in their lights.

Low CRI is fine if you just need to see where the table is.
but I promise you that wood is not actually green, like the Low CRI shows it:

Low CRI is fine if you just want to see the food, but, I would rather see the color of the food Im eating.

Low CRI is fine if you just want to see the Green Bear, but its more fun to see what color he really is.

one of the most misguided ways to use Low CRI, is to look at leaves. It makes them greener. From this some people will claim that the Low CRI LED has great color rendering… NOT!

where Low CRI really falls down, is in its lack of Red output

Why do people buy lights with Low CRI?

because they dont now any better, or plan to swap the LED to High CRI :slight_smile:

Olight have good drivers and it have nothing common with color rendering , just HI-CRI led have a little bit lower efficiency. If 70cri have 1000 lumen output of crappy color rendering light , so 90cri have 900-850lumen output of close to natural color light.

Better try with 750-800lm...

the difference is much larger… 1000 lumens becomes 644 lumens

to compare these two TCR-1

I put the two different heads on the same body tube with the same battery, and measured their outputs on my light meter.

The High CRI decreased lumens by 36, while increasing Red output by 400

since I almost never use more than 200 lumens, maximum is irrelevant to me.

I will take the High CRI every time

==
another actual lumen test before and after
AA Tool w stock CW LED
5
32
153
300

AA Tool w sw45k

2 lumens
15 lumens
73 lumens
175 lumens (42% drop)

Thx Jonathan for proper explanation.

:beer:
for those who understand, no explanation is necessary
for those who refuse to understand, no explanation will be sufficient

All written in datasheets. Can be max 25% drop, but not like you say 36 % .OK in worst case 30% ;))

I’m about to swap emitter in Olight Warrior mini to 351D 5000K. I wonder how much i’ll have afterward...

First you have to know what is “”High Performance LED (6000~7000K)” “: Warrior Mini 2 Compact EDC Tactical Flashlight - Olight Store :smiley:

I know what it is since i joind flashlight madness 2004...

It’s not high performance to my eyes at nightshift for sure. Only migraine and sore eyes

Not really important for what I use my flashlights for…which is walking the dog after dark….in the fall and winter when it gets dark so freakin’ early. Don’t need a high Color Rendering Index since there won’t be any color around here for the next 6 months, just wonderful shades of grey and white :confounded:

I’m generally very happy with my Sofirn SP40 and Manker E03H which I use most often for working on the car or on electronics. I keep wishing they were high CRI. It’s the #1 spec I would change about them.

The flat, low-contrast look is a slight but constant irritant. Certainly, it’s better than having no light, but now it’s always on my mind. Before getting a first flashlight I had wondered how important CRI would be to me, and now I know…

Wich CCT are your lights?

The SP40 is the 5300K version. I wish I could have seen the 4000K in person, but in photos I thought I liked the 5300K better as a work light.

The E03H is sadly the cool white version (the Nichia version I really wanted was sold out and discontinued). The CCT is not mentioned but it is cooler than the 5300K.

I suggest to use lower CCT with high CRI for longer use at work. Light will be
more pleasant for eyes. Think it’s not hard change Led on SP40 once you have removed the silver ring.
Just use the right pliers or try to unscrew with a piece of rubber to avoid scratch the ring