I use a similar setup with a clamp, but I do not have a dedicated lead like you have. I use the factory wire at about 16” with the alligator clips pressed against the battery. I use the alligator clips for other things too, multi-purpose. I think I will make a dedicated discharge lead. Use some heavy gauge short silicone wire, gold plated banana clips and a clamp with gold plated speaker terminals like these for connections. Or is there something better?
Precisely - as I indicated in the “other” thread. Nobody seemed to understand that, so I thought keeping it simple this time was the best strategy!
I’m not sure that you do - the resistance will not have much effect at all until you start drawing current, which is why it’s not accounted for when adjusting the charger voltage reading.
The resistance does have a effect as always basic Vdrop law. It’S just that Vdrop increase as the current increase making more of a effect on Vdrop the more current I add. If there where no resistance there would be no Vdrop.
Its just that when I was setting there with the meter paralleled with the charger and the meter could read the correct voltage and the charger was reading lower, basically like 2 meters reading the same cell at the same time is where I just couldn’t seem to wrap my head around, I failed :_( . 3amps of current passing through the charger leads being the only difference. But that is the difference that was causing the lower reading along with the already present resistance. Now that I have had a little more time to think about it with HKJ’s and your comments I understand where the voltage loss was coming from. But I’am still not sure if I will ever be able to get semi-accurate readings with a hobby charger. Close maybe.
If there was a setting in logview to change the recorded voltage easily it wouldn’t be that big of deal to fix as the discharge current is constant and probably only a slight change in resistance. I could measure with a DMM and note the voltage difference. Change the voltage difference in logview and I would consider it good (a lot better than being .40v off) . But I haven’t found a easy way to do that.
I’m going to try to eliminate some resistance and see how much Vdrop I can gain back. If it doesn’t gain much I’ll just be done with it. Noting my voltage difference and compensating accordingly.
I am sure I will jinx myself and now something will blow up, but I was just about to post how much I like my super cheap ebay Imax B6, which I am sure I paid no more than maybe $20 shipped including the external 12v power supply. Four button, two line, and I made sure it had the heat sink on the side. So far I only use it “attended” as in I am awake and around the same room, but no issues. I just used it to cycle a discarded Versapak battery and apparently brought it at least somewhat back to life and holding a charge.
Like most stuff from China, its highly YMMV, so maybe I just got lucky or haven’t put it under a lot of strain, but I needed a cheap functional solution at the time, not a master charger.
Did you look at my links in post #6? That has got to be one of the ‘fakes’. That + PS must put both of them suspiciously cheap.
Ain’t that the truth! If you have the equipment I’d check the balancing and voltages. Some of these have not been very good. Maybe you did get lucky. Time will tell.
FWIW I wouldn’t buy a real IMAX B6 when there are better clones for not much more. Don’t mean to dump on your celebration but I read a lot of dissatisfied reviews on them in the RC forms where I’m far more active. This style of charger is very common and the folks looking for the ‘cheap seats’ buy them in droves because they don’t have a clue what they are really getting yet.
I do one cell at a time, so maybe I will be fine.
With China you never know, could be factory rejects that get reworked, cheap junk clones, cheap actually OK clones, etc etc.