Yes, it would be a feasible solution, but the protective layer should be applied even between positive conductive stripe and cell body, not easy to perform without stressing the whole assy.
I did not had the chance to look at protection PCB circuit, because you have to bend everything to expose it.
With a full charged lithium cell is not a good idea
Mmmh, i fear i’m not going to do that, i feel lazy toward this kind of tasks because i know i will not trust anymore in that cells, at least for flashlight usage.
Anyhow, the original wrapping material has proved to be poor & flimsy, no brainer.
I just got my FT order yesterday and everything looks good; I can’t try out all the drivers but there doesn’t appear to be any visible damage.
The Convoy M2 seems superb for it’s price, a nice small light that has good solid ano and two sets of SS bezel (flat and crenelated) however the threads were quite dry and the head was on overtly tight with the bezel slightly loose (Possibly to allow for easier change?), but that’s better than being too tight. It must have a contact board above the 105c since I could see the spring of it soldered below the main spring, anoed threads on both sides means lockout is a possibility. Nice and hefty too, has a solid (though slightly sharp) feel. There is less space but I was able to cram a 2600mah Xtar in there, but I don’t know if I’d want to do it everyday.
The Convey S2 however I’m less impressed with, the driver is certainly the same (2800ma) and light output seems good (U2) and consistent with all my other U2 2800ma 105c torches but the spring is small, shabby and isn’t folded over so button tops don’t fit quite right. It’s ok and for the price I don’t think you’ll find anything better but a better longer softer spring would certainly make it better. My problem was actually getting shorter cells to fit, not longer ones being crushed; they included a small neodymium magnet which when affixed to the back of the battery allows for function (Panasonic IMR’s, 2600mah Sanyos are about the same) but it still isn’t quite right and the cell occasionally moves around and it messes with the modes. Construction seems rougher and cheaper than the M2 but for the price it is expected. Pretty light and smooth except my ano’s a bit sharp and can feel slightly chafing, but I’ll wear down with use.
The 3/5 mode group is pretty decent, honestly it’s nice to be able to switch between them easily but I am one of those strange people who actually uses strobe and SOS occasionally. I just wish the blink off was a bit faster/earlier, I start it up on low and get looking around and then all of the sudden wham, darkness and light again! It’ll take some getting used to but it isn’t horrid, for the price I can’t really complain since it functions well.
Packaging seemed ok, everything was wrapped in bubble wrap and tape in a bubble mailer for the most part. P60 units were wrapped in tape with the springs in the pill inside a small bag. They seemed OK but I’d be concerned if someone didn’t wrap the tape well and the spring got into the reflector. No issues though and they look fine.
Overall everything seems fine, a pretty good transaction in all.
I have just the nitecore 14500 and 16340 from Fasttech, no issues so far but i tape a kapton string over the outside like said above to make it even better anyway….
These are genuine, nothing bad on the bare cell a good genuine samsung which is confirmed that nitecore put it in their 2600mAh cells.
Received my sanyo cells this morning,were in plastic cases wrapped in bubble wrap,in jiffy bag no complaints .Show 3.8v out of case, on charge as i type.Ordered 2.02.13 so not bad shipping time. One thing i have noticed is that they r a tighter fit in xtar wp2 ,tighter than 18700 xtars im using.
I don’t mean to block any comments on this but we do back this up. We buy this directly using Nitecore’s official distribution channel. I’m not sure how Nitecore was but lately we have been getting quite some quality complaints regarding the EA4/EA4W and EC25 as well. Recent reports mainly involve switches and threads.
Yes because the xtar18700 are no real 18700, the sanyo and panasonic with the clear shrink and black protection circuit are 70mm long. But they still fit in the wp2, some of the trustfirecharger will have probs with them.
The dimensions are written on the productdescription.
I too have four 2600 protected Sanyo on the way, i will put them on test with an Intellipeak Ice as soon as they come, together the Panasonic ones showed in photo.
I want to check actual capacity @ 3A load and total ESR, that i expect to be around 100 mohm, considering protection PCB circuit.
My panny cells showed 3.65V out of the box and remained about four hours in charge @ 500mA in a Nitecore I2.
As i wrote in my initial post, i’m not going to claim with you nor open a support ticket, i was already convinced about FT good faith.
Some time ago i saw an article regarding Nitecore counterfeit products wholesale reseller and i had the doubt to be on front a good coming from a similar source.
But if you buy this directly using Nitecore’s official distribution channel then now we know for sure how original cells are made, not a great deal IMHO.
Those are my first and probably last Nitecore batteries, from my side i consider the matter closed, i will enjoy with the other cells that i bought from your nice web shop, seem a lot better !
My Nitecore P25 from FastTech also arrived today (2 weeks) to Slovenia, but stupid postmen did not ring my bell, but just left notice about packet from HK, so now I have to wait till monday… Grrr I`m so angry now.
moje spoštovanje!
it is kinda’ weird that we communicate in english …anyway, i was also thinking to order p25 (mainly because i won’t need charger, my ea4w has a little colder tint than zebralight h51w, so i hope you will notify me about your impressions for the p25…
Are the S2’s supposed to have this spring or was mine over looked? It does keep shorter cells from functioning reliably so I’m going to end up replacing or modifying it to get it to work with unprotected cells. Or is this only for different drivers, it looks like the spring pictured may not fit on a 2800ma driver however it could have been soldered upside down and modified to fix that; is the picture of a different version potentially using a different driver that can accommodate the spring when installed normally (ex:The 101-AK-A1 https://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10001686/1122401-4-amc7135-2-group-35-modes-led-flashlight-driver-n?)
Clarification on the type of spring on each differently driven version would be appreciated.
2 months ago I bought the excellent FandyFire UV-S5 from f/t, I yesterday received the black SRK from f/t.
The SRK was dead on arrival, it had been tampered with prior to my getting it, presumably in an attempt to fix it, the issue wasn’t immediately obvious.
The seal pops out when doing up, the end cover was loose, the switch surround was unscrewed about 2 turns, the mashed up screws showed some ape had tried with a pitch fork or similar to undo the screws holding the battery plate to the main body.
The issue on mine was the machining was duff, the lip the driver board sits on was made too deep, with the result that the battery compartment when screwed on wasn’t touching the outer negative ring of the driver board, it runs out of thread before making contact, I rolled up a bit of tin foil to try my theory, which works perfect bridging the “gap”, but will now make up a ring using SS TIG welding wire for a permanent cure.
The thing that pees me off is that it was taken apart before and very obviously sent back as faulty, but just resent when I ordered it, though I have no way of proving this, despite assurances this light couldn’t have worked due to pure physics, the negative circuit could not be completed!!
tabs
…anyway, i was also thinking to order p25 (mainly because i won’t need charger, my ea4w has a little colder tint than zebralight h51w, so i hope you will notify me about your impressions for the p25…