That’s it! My three 5D lights (KR1, RRT01, Jetbeam-II MK) all win the beauty contest against the SST-20, allthough it’s a nice LED. Have my SST-20/4000K from kaidomain (target: Fitorch P25). Lovely light, but in direct comparison the Cree looks much more rosy.
But yes, a colorful scene is best enjoyed with a HCRI LED. It’s just that this is not the only use case.
Dunno the light, but behind a TIR lens it should look quite nice. A and D are below the BBL (ie, rosier) while B and C would be above (ie, greener).
While I didn’t like the stock 4C that’s the come-with LED with a bunch of older S2+es, way way way too fried-eggy, behind a TIR lens where the colors are all nicely mixed, even the 4C is quite nice. And quite natural, more like sunlight. I often describe is as nice warm sunlight.
So if you like rosier, the 5D should be warmer and still rosier. Can’t say how it’d look in a reflector light (likely a bit of a fried-egg beam: warmer yellower hotspot and cooler bluer spill), but behind a TIR it should be awesome.
Awesome!
These XPL-Hi do run a little warmer in the color temperature range compared to others at 5000k. I have several 5000k lights and this one is way warmer. I’d almost call it a 4500k light. The XPL-Hi I have in my S2 and EDC 18 all are this way. Not sure if their 4000k is the same. But I find the 5000k very pleasant. One if my favorite. Not sure what tint it is though.
I never understood high CRI. I don’t care what the true color of something is at night, its light time. 4500K and lower reminds me of flashlights of yesteryear, dull and annoying. But to each is there own and you know what they say about opinions. 
Yep, “I’m right, you’re wrong!”. :laughing:
Your eyes and brain can/will adjust to different color temps and tints, but nothing can make up for the more limited spectrum of light. I can put minus green filters on any light, there is no mod that will improve color rendition.
The issue is when shining them at anything that is/was alive. Reminds me exactly of how older florescent lighting leaves furniture and skin looking yellow/green and dead, hell the actual spectral composition is similar to that IIRC. Dark blues and purples look really odd too and sometimes are hard to distinguish (low R9 and R12 being the reason).
80CRI XHP50 3500K? (top) vs Nichia 144A 4500K 9050 (bottom):
On a white wall, to the human eye, the XHP 50 is noticeably rosier, but once shined at anything with red tones to it the difference isn’t so clear, even to my phone’s camera sensor.
Try running thru a forrest with a low cri light VS a hi cri. Guess which one got you a swollen ankle.
LOL, that makes no sense. An object is an object weather a stump rock branch or hole no matter what the color is. Like I said, opinions. Maybe try a higher lumen flashlight next time
We distinguish objects based on movement, contrast and color. If they’re static and you lose some of that color perception, that leaves only one left…
SCIENCE 
Hunting a white wall is the only scenario that I can think about when low cri led might look better then hi cri lef. In real usage hi cri led will give more pleasant light even if it have more green in tint.
I prefer “frugal”. I like the SST20 5000K. Closest to White without the added cost of XPL-HI.
Jon_slider Definitely has convinced me in keeping my sat20 4000k lights and re-examining them and also ordering a couple others….but has also confused me of whether I want output or nice tint.
But, your comment here is exactly what I needed to hear- it depends what I’m using the light for. That’s how I’ll decide what to get.
Because the battle between output and nice color (I happen to really like the sst20) had me torn.
I have an On the Road M3 Pro in 5C and just got a Convoy S21B in 5B. They both look noticeably yellow and I’ve yet to figure out where they might sit on the Black Body Locus line. I adjust to it and prefer it to 5000k though. I’m aware that low CRI has something to do with it because whites look whiter to my eye with higher CRI compared to a Cree of similar colour temperature.
This is the description I have been searching everywhere for, thank you. I want a rot66 and it has 5a, Hank has 5d, Simon has 5c, and I didnt know what any of the differences were
Wellp, not everything above the BBL is bad.
Behind a TIR lens that properly mixes the light, a 4C like in generic S2+es is quite nice, very much like natural sunlight, nice and warm. (Behind a reflector, the hotspot looks way warmer and yellower than 4C might indicate, and the spill is rather blue, the Poster Boy of a fried-egg beam.)
I thought I’d have to swap for an A or D, but as-is, it’s quite a nice tint.
Sure, you might lose the Tint Lottery and get something horribly green, but all the ones I got are quite nice.
4c is what I meant, not 5c @ Simon’s shop.
Get a generic 20mm TIR lens and drop it in. You won’t want to go back to the reflector.
You think that’d work for a s21b with xhp50 6v? It’s 5000k but has some layering to the beam.