I ordered a D3AA on Jan 29, I got shipping confirmation two deays ago, on January 8th.
And he has also replied to an email I sent yesterday. I asked about pricing to order some E21a 3500K LEDs, for a future mod to a TS10… The LEDs cost $2, but I asked too late to add them to my D3AA order, so there is also an $8 shipping fee.
Im testing E21a LEDs for TS10 mods because they fit on the stock mcpcb. When I use DeDomed 519a, that requires buying a separate mcpcb with the correct solder pads.
E21a LEDs are not as rosy as DeDomed 519a, but Im curious to learn what Tint DUV the 3500K will have…
Here is a recent TS10 mod to 4500K E21a, the Tint is neither green nor rosy:
Sweet! I need to order some stuff I’ve been putting off.
Personally I really appreciate the higher output of the 519a emitters. I have E21A emitters in several lights and I wish I hadn’t gotten so many now that the 519a has completely overshadowed them by my estimation.
Some people would be pretty excited to be sitting smack dab on top of the BBL like that! I really like truly neutral lights myself and although I enjoy rosy lights too, they are more for variety than a goal. I do have some 2850k XPL-HIs in a light that have a really nice rosy tint with awesome output.
agree
Im hoping someone will adopt that light and give it a loving home… I listed it for sale here. The price is essentially the same as a TiCu D3AA.
The lower max power capability of E21a does not affect my indoor use style, and the new 50% FET firmware in the TS10, prevents any risk of burning the LEDs.
The copper is very tempting. Looks great! My d4k in red has the brass fixins…
One thing i struggle with is copper and aluminium really dont like each other. I do wander in the rain at times. Is it just the powder coat and patina that separates them?
Obviously if it was a problem we would know by now. Im just wondering how they prevent the galvanic reaction. Ive done a bit of copper smithing as a builder. The 2 metals really dont get along. But this is obviously different application.
Me either.
All it needs is a dielectric barrier to prevent galvanic migration. Even humidity is enough to cause it. So it must be the powder coat and maybe the oring.
Just one (ok, actually 2 – one for me and one for a friend).
Can’t see myself buying another given its driver kinda sucks IMO (its preflash behavior makes its moonlight – which would otherwise be excellent due to HDR – useless for my use cases).
Otherwise I kinda like it – will probably buy a new one if/when the preflash ever gets fixed.
You will get banned for comments like that against the beloved D3AA. Albeit I’ve typed the same more than once and deleted them. I’m just not impressed as everyone else. Well I guess it’s just you and I.
I am aware of the preflash on moonlight, but I still bought a second D3AA, because of its other advantages, including MultiFuel, Regulated Output and NoPWM
The D3AA is the light I choose when I want an LED source for extended use, that has an extremely low Flicker Index. Its also the Anduril light I would gift to a friend that wants to use AA.
Exactly the opposite of my TS10, whose form factor and Tailswitch are ideal for me, but whose PWM leaves me wishing a D3AA driver could be transplanted into my TS10.
No light is perfect, and we are fortunate to have great choices.
regarding D3AA preflash, the Zebra AA model I tried recently did it much worse. I like the Zebra body better, I just wish it had Anduril, and the choice of LEDs the D3AA offers…
I ordered my second D3AA today, along with my second KC1.
My first D3AA is dark gray (regret not going red) and is setup as an astronomy light. It has SST-20 660nm deep red emitters under a 10508 frosted optic, along with red backlit button and flat ring. Also opted for magnet and clip to increase usefulness.
With this D3AA I wanted to get an EDC type light to use around the home and farm at night, but also wanted to experiment around with the aesthetics a little and give it an old school vibe. So I’m experimenting by going with a 519a 3500K dedomed to hopefully give it a slightly incandescent feel but with a nice rosey look to it. I choose to put these in the black body with copper bezel and raised copper ring. I’ll probably use the standard 10511 optic or maybe 10508 frosted, but I also got the 10507 to play around with too. I went with an RGB switch light to play around with (curious for future orders…), but also asked Hank to include 2 black buttons with this order and will probably use that the most.
I’m still very new to all this, and this will be my first trip into both dedomed LEDs and very warm tints. I guess it’s more of an experiment to gain some hands-on experience lol.
My current dark gray D3AA (SST-20 660nm DR) does have a pre-flash.
It shows when turning the light on when set at a low level, but doesn’t happen when the light turns on at a mid ramp level. It’s most noticeable when the light is locked out and moonlight is turned on, but it also shows when light isn’t locked out and is turned on.
There’s also a slight flicker at the low end of the ramp. I’ve read some reports of others having this issue around the 10 lumen level and I’d guess that’s probably the same brightness mine happens at. Could be related to the pre-flash since that’s roughly the same spot it the ramp where it manifests itself.
Neither is a real issue for me personally, although they’re both very noticeable. FWIW, despite the flash and flicker I just ordered my second D3AA (black, copper ring & bezel, RGB switch but with black button too, 519a 3500K DD) and will probably be ordering a 3rd (leaning towards TiCu w/ 519a 5700K DD)…
