I stripped out the copper wire out of a small line of speaker wires, and soldered them to the switch.
Here is the result.
Should work, looks like it still springs and should be better current. Whatever works!
Do they sell copper braid or desoldering wick WITHOUT flux???…. not that I can find….
Anyone help me out with a link or a brand of this elusive product! haha
Thanks!
Jim, the cheaper Chinese wicks generally don't have much or any flux. The other trick is to soak the wick in some isopropyl alcohol or other solvent before use to remove the flux.
I usually leave the flux in mine, but you have to work fast to avoid having too much draw up the wick.
jimithing616, as an alternative, you can use a short piece of silicone wire. Compared to solder wick, it's much easier to work with, more flexible, and it won't fray or oxidize over time.
Maybe I am missing somting. the OP said “This prevents a potential ‘hotspot’ where all the current flows through a tiny contact point.”
I thought that was sort of the point to have all the current run through the braid? please feel free to clarify this for me.
Ronin, the idea is to spread the current. Resistance creates heat. Less resistance, less heat on the spring and more amps. The current will flow through the spring and the braid.
Electricity flows through the path of least resistance
See that is sort of my point. “Electricity flows through the path of least resistance” So we know that the Cu braid is lower resistance then the spring, thus the juice flows only/mainly through the braid. So I dont think “spreading” is really the cause of any benifit.
In looking at it again I think they were addressing the physical shape and size of the braid near the battery. it seems like some and gone to going up over the top and soldering it on the second wind down thus allowing a soft maximal contact with the braid as opposed to a hard spot in the solder.
but again this is a bit of an assumption on my part.
Your assumption is correct: you don't want to have that fancy copper braid only contacting the battery with a little pin-head's worth of contact area.
I never notice any difference in tail cap readings after braiding the spring in the head. For example my BLF A6 showed 3.05 before and after braiding. Is that because the benefit is mostly in braiding the spring in the tail because it’s longer and thinner? Or because none of my lights draw enough to show an increase in amps?
Thanks
Anyone verified a copper braid without flux?
I’ve bought several (“GootWick” was one) that were described as “no flux” — so far they’ve all had flux, when the package arrived.
what about chemtronics? they seem to have good products so I would believe them:
The gootwick I have (from RMM) either has no flux or very, very little. I always have to add flux to use it at all.
Regardless, I no longer use copper braid in my springs. I have found that compression on the springs loosens the weave of the copper braid and eventually it just falls apart. I now use 20-24awg silicone wire in my springs, and it holds up much better.
If you do them right, they are pretty soft when you're done and will last for a long time. Those of you who have seen my FET drivers can use that as an example. If the braid seems crunchy and stiff, then it will break after a while.
- Pre-tin the spring and pad
- Put a small bend in the braid
- Melt the solder, then quickly dip the braid in as you remove the iron
- Cut off the excess
- Clean the braid with a solvent (this aids with flexibility)
Most people already do this, but I think it’s important to put a bend in them too. Otherwise, if they are straight up and down when the spring compresses, they open up like a chinese finger trap.
Might have already been mentioned, but it’s worth noting that some tailcaps have left hand threaded retaining rings, such as the convoy S2+. These need to be turned clockwise to remove.
What kind of wire would be best if you’re just going to twirl it around the spring ends? Silicone wire? Speaker wire? What Guage?