It’s not a matter of cost of the components. Shipping to me would be $3 ish US and customs+ tax, as much as $12 US, all for $2 in parts. lol. Principle and minimal patience are the issues 
Thanks for the response 
I have the same version as you. I just got it today from GearBest. It’s charging to 4.25V (in circuit while charging). Do the mods in the first post still work on this version. I’d like to lower it to 4.20V.
I used a pencil to ‘shade’ R5 to create a high resistance parallel resistor and it worked, sort of. The charger stopped charging a LiIon at 3.7V! Hahhahah. Maybe a little less Omph would have been more effective.
Secondly, I bought a 146.8k ohm, 1/4W resistor and replaced R5 completely. On first charge, a LiIon cell was charged to 4.174V, a 4.35V cell, to 4.293V and an AAA Eneloop to 1.44V. The 1/4W resistor has more than enough space to fit inside the charger if it is laid flat on the PCB. (Older version charger.)
@stereodude:
It should work just fine. Check that R5 and R6 are marked “18D”. It means 150 kOhm.
I recently modified another 3 pieces. They did not have the yellow/ orange markings but they had new dates on the circuit boards.
@eebowler:
Good job! :+1:
Are they 0805, 0603, something else?
Edit: They are 0603 (not metric 0603).
This is a great thread.
Thanks sixty545 for bringing this up and describing so well! And kudos to freeme and mattlward, the pictures helped a lot.
These chargers are really good even in stock form: reliable, many options, very priceworthy, screwed and not glued. I will play with both, termination voltage and charge current.
In the case of termination voltage I’m aiming to have the option to select 4.1V (for cell lifetime) and 3.8V (for storage). With termination voltage I mean the resting voltage of the cell after charging, not the max voltage spikes while charging.
After some calculation I soldered some scrap parts, which indeed did turn out as planned.
The black wire is soldered to one side of R5 and the red wire to the other side. The switch is on-off-on type and lets 2 different resistors to be added in parallel to R5. Off position means R5 stays 150k giving about 4.21V.
With 3M3 in parallel to 150k, resulting in R5 = 143k, the cells are charged to 4.11V.
With 680k in parallel to 150k, resulting in R5 = 122k, the cells are charged to 3.82V.
I tried 4 different cells, results are +/- 0.01V.
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Now I need some smaller switch and resistors
After having opened a 2-bay Lii-202 it looks that these are similarly moddable, so I will continue there.
On another Lii-100 I changed R10 from 0.050 Ohm to 0.100 Ohm by using 4x 0805 R400 (= 0.4 Ohm or 400mOhm) in parallel. That very nicely resulted in about half the charging current:
1A: from 1030mA down to 530mA
0.5A: from 520mA down to 265mA
This is awesome. This is the single best cheap versatile reliable charger.
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Thank you to all in this thread for the valuable info. I have a couple Lii-100’s on their way to me and I want to use one as a dedicated “small cell” charger at work for 10440’s and 16340’s.
Hello everyone I was very happy that I found this mod but unfortunately it broke my Lii 100. I soldered 4.7+1.5 MOhm (in series) parallel to R5, and the charger is broken, i desoldered additional resistors and it still doesn’t work. I’m familiar with electronics, soldering, SMD etc. for shure i didn’t short out anything. What could go wrong ? The board is XSL-Lii100-A2RZ 2016-8-6
(SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH)
Hi and welcome Marcinoss. You may have to post up some pictures of the circuit board to try and solve your issue.
The board is the same as in #55 post. After treating it with a lot of flux and hot air, replaceing all the diodes (they seems to be broken, but i mesaured them on borad…) Finnaly i resloved the problem The problem was the R5 resistor wchich i was messing with, it seems to be good, the meter shows 149KOhm, there was a pass and it wasn’t shorted. It had to be some defect, i didnt overheated it etc. NOW IMPORTANT INFORMATION :student: There is planty of space inside and I replaced it with normal THT resistor 150k 1% and added two THT resistors to make a mod (4,7M+1,5M dropped from ~ 4.25 to 4.185) There is no need ordering SMD one, normal one you can buy in every electric shop
Recently got a 100 and while i dont realy use it as charger just to check the voltage.
The two times i have tried it i went to 4.28 and 4.25 i quit the charing then so i dont know where the charger wanted to stop at.
Very interesting thread. I ordered two of these and got three. All three charge to 4.23v, and since I use these as travel chargers I was Ok with this. But I like the idea of reducing the charge current in one of them to make it a dedicated small cell charger at .25 and .5 A.
If you used a 5V psu that only delivered 0.25A, you could achieve the 0.25A charging current, correct?
Would the above 5V psu die an early death?
If I change R10 to 0.025 can I get a 2A charger? 
I destroyed my charger today while trying to reduce the charging voltage.
Desoldered R6 and soldered a through hole resistor to one soldering point. While lightly pulling on the resistor to check the soldering I ripped the soldering point from the pcb. Now I can not solder anything to R6 :person_facepalming:
This PCB design is not made for any through-hole resistors. I am actually amazed you found the space to put it there.
edit: read further up, apparently some users made through hole work. all I had/could fit were SMD.
I think you are right. SMD resistors are the only resistors you can securely solder to the PCB.
That is how mine looks now. There is no way to solder anything to it anymore.
you could try to fix the board but I doubt it’ll be worth it for a charger that costs $2 on promo/after points. What does it do currently, when you switch it on? Nothing works?
Has anyone compared charging voltage of Lii-100 to Lii-100B? The Lii-100B is the one without a power bank function.
My Lii-100B charges with max voltage of 4.23, while my Lii-100 charges with max voltage of 4.25. Of course it could just be a fluke and nothing to do with it being a “B”.