Are there any guides on how to install the Lume1 driver for a novice? I’ve read that it is rather difficult; is it worth the hassle?
The driver itself is pretty straightforward, the aux board is a little tricky though
I have some pics from when I did my FW3A: https://imgur.com/a/R1CK4sS
For the driver you unsolder the leads from the MCPCB, remove the brass retaining ring, and pull out the driver
There's a lot of good info in the lume1 thread too: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/60947/262
Will it work if I only replace the driver? I don’t really care for the aux leds.
The Aux board is separate and doesn’t need to be installed.
Loneoceans made a guide over here, it may be useful to you. lume1-fw3x/LUME1-FW3X Datasheet - PRELIMINARY.pdf at main · loneoceans/lume1-fw3x · GitHub
I have the FW3A and FW1A, how much more efficiency and brightness will I get with Lume1?
The link above will tell you if you read it
It compares Lume1 to FW3X, I think FW3A has a different driver. I’m confused, it says Lume1 is more efficient than FW3X, but I thought FW3X has Lume1 or is it a different version of Lume1?
A little background is in order.
Yes there is currently a model of light being sold named the FW3X, which is the FW3A light but factory outfitted with the Lume1 driver.
In the context of Loneoceans’s guide that was referenced, the term FW3x refers to the FET+1+7 driver first used in the variety of FW3_ based model lights (e.g., FW3*A**, FW3*T** FW3*C*…) lights. Note that the current batch of FW3_ lights are reportedly coming with a different driver (e.g.FET+1).
Typically (but not always, depending on design and parts used) a Boost or Buck driver is more efficient than a linear driver. I believe it to be the case with the Lume1 driver.
The FW3A and Lume1-FW3X Driver threads will have much more detail.
Quite a bit more – in the lowest mode. The stock drivers go way lower than the Lume1, which is something I didn’t see mentioned and which disappointed me a little.
For the rest, the linked writeup is indeed good.