great idea - I'll be trying some variation of this soon. this light is really a must have if you like zoomies.
Nice job!
I did something very similar using a copper end cap from the hardware store and filling it with copper wire as well. I went one step further and filled the gaps with solder. It's one helluva chunk of copper/solder. I've had it sitting around for a while, but think I've come up with a great mod for it.
Details to follow....
Good idea, but if you feel that is a bad dissipated light, most other zoomies are worse than that, many have the led star "in the air" being in contact with metal just on the edges.
I'm not certain about the temperature range that would be encountered on a heat sink, but I'm curious about filling a pill with something like Wood's metal or a similar alloy for additional heat sinking...
Wood's metal has a melting point of 70oC/158oF. Other similiar alloys can be found with higher/lower melting temperatures.
There is a TON of Arctic Silver inside, adhering the copper to the flat disc of metal upon which the emitter rests. Each piece of Cu was coated to ensure good heat transfer to the next piece. The AS you see on the surface is not necessary, as it is a result of the epoxy being pushed out of the pill.
As others have mentioned, solder also works well. I use a liberal application of flux to ensure solder penetration, and have had little problem with solder migration doing so.
What about using Alumiweld? JohnnyMac gave me the idea of filling a pill with Alumiweld in another thread. For those in the US, Alumiweld is available at Harbor Freight. I'm not sure how it turns out cost-wise.
-Garry
their page states the thermal conductivity - ~40% of aluminum's
cost isn't bad - about double what I paid for silver bearing solder at home depot
I've been thinking about buying copper powder and mixing it w/ solder paste
Even better, why not use the best of both worlds? Personally I like Eās idea of packing it with copper wire. Pack it tight enough then heat it with a torch and fill all the air space with solder or Alumiweld. Solid pill with better thermal conduction than pressing in thermal paste/epoxy. Just redrill the holes for the wiring to pass through.
Aluminum repair rods won't work for that, used like that. You'd have to fill the hole with molten rods, then dip copper into it. Not a big problem, I'd guss, but it can't be done the other way around, like suggested.
Molten aluminum repair rods have EXTREME surface tension. See video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2rlkfhhQs8&feature=related
Viktor
How about running wires first and tamping aluminum/copper foil in the void?
I would be afraid of air pockets with that method.
The purpose of the thread was to show a method that could be done without lathe or fire.
With a torch, the copper+solder method works well (as others have noted, above):
Before on the right, after on the left. :)
Thanks Chicago X! Thanks to you I had to swing by Lowes Home Depot on my way home from work and pick up 4' of #4 AWG solid copper wire! You're such a bad influence on me! Such an encourager/enabler!
-Garry
(Just kidding of course, and I'm truly thankful for the idea!)
I was certain of the purpose, since you OWN a freaking lathe ;)
I might add - a vise or at least vise grips. Alternatively, I guess you could set it on a stone or something (to melt in solder).
I did try a making 'coil of foil' (copper) and you can get most of the air out (w/ a hammer and vise!), but it is expensive and labor intensive vs. heavy gauge wire like Chicago_X did...
Update in the first reply.
I just found another reason for using this method - a pill that can't be removed from a light (and you don't want to turn the light orange :) )
Good point. Completely hollow pills (cylindrical) also benefit from this method.
Thanks for this tutorial, Im eagerly awaiting the "Driver and LED installation" (hopefully you will post it) part. I just bought one of these exact flashlights, and stock, it throws about 100 yards and i can still see the shape of the die. I took it apart and Noticed the hollow Heatsink, then 20 minutes later found this post. It seemed as if it were meant to be. 
Anyhow, I should probably leave "good enough" alone, but I want to throw a XML in this or at least a XPE R2.
As for the heatsink, you gave me a great idea, I have a 10 lb bag of 100% copper shot - and at the bottom of the bag is about 1 lb of pure copper "dust". im going to fill the void of the heatsink out of some AS and some of this dust. Never would have thought of it before seeing your thread, so thank you! I was actually thinking about melting some of that copper shot in a silica bowl and pouring it into the pill - but this other method is much more user friendly as Ive never melted copper.
I lurk here alot, and have yet to give anything back (plan to do a noob review/beamshot on my zoomies soon). Best flashlight forum on the net, hands down. Just want to say thanks for posting all your work for others!
Search for thermal glue. There are different varieties. Some conduct electricity, some don't.
Any hardware store in Croatia also has "liquid silver". It's a 2-component silvery glue, I think that one should conduct electricity. However, I'm not sure about how good it conducts heat. It's rated to some extreme temperatures, but it might even block heat, not sure.
If you find good thermal glue you can glue the emitter and you won't need the holder to press the emitter.
Viktor
I'm looking forward to hear how you like this light w/ xml.
Have you retained the steel o-ring that applies pressure to the slider? Mine had a kink and made a grating sound so I put in a 20mm DX gitd (was handy at the moment).
it was just a bit too tight and the slider shaved off some of the oring when I pushed it on but after that it is perfect.