Is it still called a substrate if it's silver instead of green? (this place really needs a :poke: ani-gif!)
(sorry, couldn't resist :party: )
I was wondering, what is that silver part on the XML2? I think the XML2 is built a little differently than the XML.
I'm pretty sure that the green part on the XML is a solder mask. Directly under that is the metal trace. And under that is the ceramic substrate.
Is the silver part on the XML2 just the metal trace layer?
I think you’re right rojos, the metal trace seems to be directly under the die on the XM-L2 version, whereas it’s buried on the XM-L.
Does anyone know of the most efficient way to slice the silicone dome off while leaving a very thin layer over the phospor? Would a very sharp blade like a scalpel be best? Heated? A heated wire? Heated as in glowing red? I’d like to shave the dome off an MT-G2, but I want a clean slice one time…don’t want to hack at it.
I have used a scalpel on a xml. It works but, its almost impossible to get a very nice flat cut. The doom can be shaved off like cutting a piece of plastic, very hard to make the cut perfectly flat though.
I can see a difference of the yellow under the dome between an XML2 T5 4000k in the 5Dish area and an XML2 U2 that comes in the XINTD x3. Don’t have my XML2 t6 3c to compare right now.
You need the right shape blade (chisel profile, flat on the bottom), some silicone grease, and a piece of plastic (fake/promo credit cards work nice) with a hole exactly the size of the base of the dome and the same thickness as you want the remaining dome. Hold the plastic while cutting so all the force is applied on opposite sides of the dome itself.
I thought to actually make a metal ring that just does fit over the diameter of the dome, then slide the blade across the metal ring to control the cut. Think that would work? Don’t want to get into the substrate on the big emitter, or lose any phosphor. (had to keep it thread related 
)
Anyone ever noticed a yellow dot in the middle of the beam from an MT-G2? Am I not focused properly? It’s only visible after around 15-20’, white wall hunting of course.
Yes, it's normal. Mine has faint yellow lumpy spots in the center, only see it if you're looking for it.
The XML substrate is plain fiberglass PCB stuff, the XML2 is... something else altogether. Either ceramic or some ceramic-like material. There is no metal between the underside of the die and the trace layer on the bottom of the package.
I'm pretty certain that the XML substrate is ceramic and not a fiberglass sandwich like FR4.
Literature published by Cree refers to it as a ceramic based substrate.
Also, I've scraped XML substrates with a razor blade and it feels like ceramic, not at all like fiberglass.
Nice Comfy, like the layers in an onion. Thanks for sharing that.
And a common green substrate! 
My SC600 MKii on moonlight mode is my favourite mode on any flashlight I own
-Jamie M.
I'm afraid my own attempts to take a similar picture have failed rather miserably :(
I leave my SC52 on all the time. Literally. Just always on, on the lowest sub lumen mode. Love it.
Which camera are you using? There’s probably some manual settings that’d help. That pic was taken with a Canon T2i/550d with the stock 18-55mm lens
-Jamie M.
Just a point & shoot, Sony DSCTX10. I haven't quite gotten the camera big yet.
Look for a cheap/used Canon T2i/550d and load the hacked Magic Lantern firmware on it, makes it SUPER powerful
-Jamie M.
Thanks, I'll definitely keep it mind. Probably not going to be for a very long while though... holidays are hell on my budget.