See here. Basically don't do it.
Instead, remove the bezel, lift out the lens and O ring. The reflector will come out. DO NOT TOUCH the reflecting surface. You can unscrew the pill from there. It takes ages though.
You can get it apart without removing the head. You can see from my post linked above that getting the head off is not a trivial task.
Hi Dave, I could remove the head from the body tube after doing some force
Check the photo, looks like there is some glue applied
Maybe I was lucky or have strong hands :-)
I love that picture, Don. You can actually feel the annoyance and frustration that you must have been experiencing at the time. Its such an emotive shot in a flashaholic kind of way. 
It was!
I even broke a (cheap) vice (vise for those who speak American) trying to get that (multiple expletives deleted) head off. Eventually a pair of metre long plumbers wrenches after an hour in the oven at 300oC got it apart.
It nearly got hit with an oxyacetylene torch till the thing melted. But fortunately I was out of oxygen.
The thing now sits at my bedside - still with the crappy resistored switch.
But with an XM-L and a 3A driver. It now has ten modes with four annoying flashing ones.
What kind of a beam are you getting from an XM-L in that deep reflector?
Just curious, since mine is glued as well (although some samples weren't).
See here. Beamshots of a lot of lights at 40 metres.
Remember the XM-L is far from well centred. The thermal epoxy set a lot faster than I expected it to.
I marked up the hex nut a bit getting the head off but it wasn’t too hard. I covered the head with a plastic baggie and head it in boiling water for a minute and then used a vise as I recall.
Once the glue released it was no problem from that point on of course.
Mine is a Uniquefire HS-802. Maybe that’s what the OP meant. If Ultrafire makes on maybe it’s harder to get off?
Depends where you got it from. Last I heard, the ones KD sold weren't glued whereas the DX (Which is where the one I bought came from) ones were.
Interesting. Mine was from DX as well and was definitely glued on.
Yep .. LOVING that picture Don, mine would of gone 'through the window' long before that
i'll try to remove it later after work
Ta for advice .. was hoping to try an XML pill in there - hoping the C8 or a P60 pill will fit as i have both.
I know nothing about modding the exsisting pill so thats not an option.
A P60 pill isn’t going to work as it isn’t a screw-in. I have no idea is your C10 pill will screw-in or not. The hole in the reflector is probably too small without modifying it for the XM-L.
I’m not sure if the emitter hight is the same or not. I’m sure someone can answer these questions definitively however.
If you're interested, I have some pics too.
left: deep reflector with xm-l
right: C8 xm-l
mouse over -> lower shutter speed
mouse over deep reflector,
mouse out C8 xm-l
Thank you Don and viffer750.
Very informative shots.
The C8 pill will not fit. Manafont have pills that will fit but they are R2's. So you'll be buying an R2 and driver that you don't need and still need to do an emitter and driver swap. Having said that you will end up with two pills, you current one and the new XM-L modded one that you can switch whenever you want.
TBH I'd be inclined to keep the light as it is and get something else. If you don't already have one then as I suggested earlier the Super Tactics MRV clone or a Trustfire X9 (I got mine there) would be my next moves in your position. After all you can never have too many lights.....
....
My hs 802 can w/ red led (in theory) it never lit. to return or replace it.. well shipping is a much as I paid for it!
where can a nube old guy get the replacement in red led? I do not own or know how to solder, and thank goodness they didnt glue mine silly, everything unscrews easily. The boys at batteries plus tested the unit for me and the switch etc is fine, they say no joy in the emitter?? (all one unit i guess, led and what ever that soldered mess is at the top of the cylinder)
OK, quit laughing and help an old guy :
It is a PITA, but if it comes apart it isn't all that hard. As long as you can solder.
If you don't want to get into that, maybe someone a bit nearer than me (About 3500 miles) can help out. It isn't hard to swap the LED. All you need is a replacement LED on an appropriately sized star, a soldering iron, a few miligrammes of solder and about 15 minutes.
Basically, take it apart, remove the pill, unsolder the LED, solder in the new one, apply a tiny amount of heatsink goop, stick the LED down, let the glue harden then screw it all back together. Typing out this description takes about as long as the job will.
If nobody else steps up, I'll do it for the cost of postage - but I don't live in the US so postage would be quite a lot.
Aloha and welcome to BLF treehunter!
Welcome to the monkey house, treehunter!
Ok, getting it apart, heating and unsoldering etc I can handle..
the manufacturer said using a cr123 "fried" the light... is there any kind of circuitry or board beneath the led? if / if not,
any recommendations on what to put into this light? Cree HS 802, red led for finding 'yotes etc out in the fields. web sites with specific part number would be darn near orgasmic :)
Welcome to BLF, treehunter.