These XP-1’s have replaced my Microstream. I thought about running a XP-1 with the 10440, but see here and other places that it is a gamble. Now that I have hands on these fine little lights, I find that on an alkaline AAA they are between the Streamlight Microstream with either an alkaline or a 10440 in terms of brightness. So, happy with their output, I ordered several more for backups and will run them with AAA alkaline batteries and be very satisfied with them. I do love the AAA format for general carry and useability, so the Microstream was my EDC for quite a while, but losing a ~$17 light can put a damper on a day for me, these will spread that pain out as I can get four for the price of one Microstream, and the Hugsby XP-1s are brighter on alkaline AAA batteries!
Beware of the alkaleak boojum! In high drain(read boost applications) this is more likely. I’m making a pair of brass split bushings to separate the head parts. When it’s done I’ll mail them to anyone interested. I just ask that you pass them on to someone else when you’re done.
Well let me know when you are done with the split bushings, I will use them and mail them on to the next person who needs them.
Haven’t even been home to turn over the laundry pile. Thanks for the reminder.
I attempted my second dedome. The first was successful on my Thorfire TG06, the second on my Hugsby XP-1, not… I had such good response from the first dedome on the Thorfire to a nice NW from the original bluish tint that I pressed on to the XP-1. I believe I rushed the solvent method and when I tried to get the residue off of the LED, I may have damaged the wires…. I have a couple of more on the way, and I ordered some emitters on an 8mm board to try a direct swap on the XP-1… Worst case, I am out a couple of bucks for the new emitter… Still like this light, back to the microstream for now…
Just ordered two myself. Been looking for a decent cheap replacement for my Maratacs. I like the idea of a clicky cuz the twisty Maratacs get a little funky without frequent cleaning. Another reason these Xp-1’s look good to me is because the clip looks really sturdy compared to the Maratacs. I constantly clip these little lights to a ball cap for headlight duty during bow hunting season.
Still haven’t had a chance to fab a split collar but pretty sure the separation should be done with the head installed on the battery tube to lessen the chance of squashing one of the parts(the battery tube will reinforce the pill if left attached). I’ve cut some brass bits but haven’t done the brazing.
And I was about to make close up pictures on emitter on my XP-11 that I picked up today to make sure its really XP-E2 and not a fake Cree :D!
Its not perfectly centered and I can see two of the LED base corners and one of them seems to be different texture and color.
Guys, how did you access the LED in XP-1? I’ve tried to unscrew it, but…failed. Just scratched the surface. I just want to swap the LED to the warmer one.
I haven’t done it myself, but the end is glued on with thread locker. Heat seems to be the key. Take a look at this thread (read thru to the end).
Thank you very much gchart!! I missed this thread 
I just bought 5 of the xp1 from tomtop on eBay. I had a clone that I actually loved but I’ve lost it somewhere. I can’t wait to see how the real things compare.
Here’s an old thread where I was disassembling the XP-2 head (should be same for XP-1):
The head unscrews into two pieces, but there is threadlock and it’s almost impossible to see where the “break” is, but that thread has pics including one where I cut the head in half.
Finally I’ve managed to open it. Unfortunately scratched the head…but still it’s a success
Now trying to unscrew my very old Fenix L1D….that’s a challenge. Tried to baking it twice, freezing twice, using small torch on the head (wrapped in aluminium foil) and…nothing 
I built 2 of these that I got for like $2.60 awhile back.
1 with a 219C 90+ CRI and the other with an XP-L2.
With a 10440 they are very nice indeed, around 450 lumens for the 219C and 650 lumens for the XP-L2. Very simple build as well, I just opened the top, desoldered the MCPCB, reflowed the new LED’s and then put it back together with a bit of thermal paste.
Tailcap current on the 10440 seems to be about 1.7-2A depending on the cell used and how full it is.
With an AAA it seems to regulate things to around 1.5W IIRC.
A pretty simple DIY option is to drill a 1/2” or 12 mm hole in a hardwood stick and cut a slit from the hole to the end of the stick. A bolt and wing nut crossing the slit allows you to clamp it in place. Two of these can be made as opposing wrenches.
I am going to have to do a little research. I would love to see one oif these modded like that. Texas_Ace do you happen to have pictures?
No pictures at the moment as I have never been able to get a good setup for beam shots that I was happy with.
It is a fairly floody beam though with a hefty amount of power to back it up. It is both brighter and further throwing then the BLF-348 with the same emitter though, also stays cooler. The 348 just looks so sexy.
I received my Hugsby lights I ordered from TomTop and I have to say, these are really a steal for the money. I definitely like them better than the BLF 348 I like the modes of the Lumintop tool (cree emitter)better but I prefer the beam of the XL-1. As far as quality goes I would have to give the tool the edge there as well but not by much. The threads are a little smoother on the tool is all. The XL-1 has a brighter beam. I was able to take the head apart on the one I have tried so far with just my bare hands. I see that the driver is soldered into place, shouldn’t be a big deal to remove. So I don’t own any micrometers I know the light is just about 16 mm is this a 14 mm driver? I have found one that size but I have also found an 11mm. I don’t believe it is that small. I would love to upgrade the led and make it good for 10440. I know it will get too hot rather quickly, my goal on this is to learn about doing it on a cheap light that I won’t cry about if I ruin it. Plus when I use my light it is usually for very short periods, like ten seconds walking down the hallway or some such. I have a bigger light for long term use. Thanks guys