I Lowered Duv with a custom paint!

Hey now, quit looking in my window

I PM’d you id30209, but we need to figure out that Croatia shipping for you.

So what happened with this stuff?

It worked great. I still get requests for it, but they all go the same… Someone PM’s me and asks what it costs to ship internationally, I say the cheapest is $24 for postage. Then decide that’s too much and don’t want it. It just happened again yesterday with @mrcsone. No wonder nothing is made in the USA.

User LukeHale has this can of Green Delete arriving Wednesday. I’m looking forward to hearing how it works for him. :slight_smile:

I also need to post some feedback. Other stuff got me carried away

Ha, yea I have that problem too…
Standing outside spraying: This junk has no color, I see nothing. Maybe just a little extra…
Powering it on: OH, it definitely was working. Where is my rubbing alcohol…


No, unfortunatelly didn’t even used it. Have it together with Boaz DC and Lee sheets and still waiting in the garage. Corona shit made different plans.

So a partial update… I have seriously used this stuff on (almost) every light in my house. It’s amazing.

Thanks to this I was able to buy some cheap 90 cri Feit bulbs (3000k for most of the house, 5000k for some things) and make them AWESOME. It took them from visibly green (5000k) to a little above neutral (probably a bit below the duv of sunlight) and also noticeably increased CRI/R9 in the process. Colors really POP now. For the 3000k the effect is less dramatic as far as tint, since the lower CCT means they were yellowish instead of greenish, but it’s still awesome. They were closer to the BBL in the first place, so now they are very slightly rosy, but put out beautiful high-cri (and R9) light. I think the stock lights are around the 9050 level, and to my eye they now all appear to be at or near the 9080 level.

For some comparison… before I found this thread and Green Delete (love the name) I actually took apart some of these same bulbs… and painstakingly cut out and stuck tiny little bits of 804 minus green to each individual emitter in some bulbs… That, was a LOT of effort. When I compare the 1 5000k bulb I did that to (those have SO MANY emitters in each bulb) to the ones I coated with Green Delete, I can see what you mean with the lowering CCT. The Green Delete doesn’t appear to lower CCT the same way the Minus Green does.

Thanks again for this stuff!


Finally i have played with a can of this paint and i left speachless.

This thing is amazing!!!

I don’t know what have you done to make this solution but it sure does a great job. I have applied 2 layers on Convoy S21A and S21B lens eith 351D 5000K and CULNM1.TG emitters. Convoy lenses are known for thick layer of AR coating, raising DUV sky high.
2 layers later 351D became close to rosier than white and Osram became pure white instead of green.


Now i only need to practice at which distance is the best coverage...

Great work JoshK.

Great to hear :+1:
I’m glad you love it too :slight_smile:

JaredM just PM’d yesterday and ordered a can, so that shipped today. :slight_smile:
I decided with the positive feedback and continued interest I should make this an official product of my little manufacturing business. Here’s the label I whipped up for Jared’s can. I wanted to add more info to it, but the mail truck was due very soon, so I hit print, and this what his can looks like:

Reminds me of this :smiley:

Excited to try it out!

Have a new GT-FC40 4000k in a Thrunite T2 that desperately needs a good bit of tint correction. Very very green as it is. Makes SST20 4000k FW3A look rosy. I’ll measure lux before and after.

JoshK, do you have any CRI and spectrum results before and after with a high CRI emitter?

If anyone recalls where I posted a high CRI before and after, please link it.
The results were always a significant boost to the CRI, especially with high CRI lights. The reason for that is CRI expects a balanced white light, so correcting a green tint is a correction to the CRI too.
Of course, that assumes you are trying to make the light whiter. If you over-apply and make it rosy, I imagine the CRI falls accordingly because you are now moving away from white.

I’m most interested in seeing the wavelengths that this product filters. Transmission vs wavelength graph would be ideal. I have a spectrometer at work I could use, but first need to make a fixture to get repeatable data. If you don’t have this I’ll see if I can manage it next week :slight_smile:

Also, I was thinking about the lumen/lux loss and concern for overheating in powerful lights. I don’t think the heat buildup is necesarilly proportional to the drop in luminosity. Filtering green is killing the most lumen dense of the radiant flux. Likely a CTO (dropping cct) filter generates way more heat than a tint correction due to the energy embodied in the short wavelengths.

I do have that data. :slight_smile:
It causes smooth sag through the middle of the spectrum. Pay no attention to the total light loss in this graph, I put A LOT of coats on to exaggerate the effect and see it better on the graph. See how the spectrum changed from arched-up to arched-down?

Oooooo. That’s nice. Excited to play with it. Thanks again.

EDIT: BTW, whatlight source is that? Looks awesome! Sunlike? Yuji? SOL?

I believe that’s my orphan bulb known as SunLike6 SOL 4000k.