Although I prefer to use stranded wire (usually 20ga) instead of braided copper , here is a link that shows fairly well what needs to be done if you do not want to go through the board. I am not sure that you get much more by going through , but it may be that it does give a little extra. I am sure one of the “real” modders will chime in, just be patient if this is not the route you want to go with the bypass.
Bypass can be done on driver spring, tail spring or both. You will get maximum benefit if both are done (provided both ends have a spring as some drivers do not)
A dab of flux is always helpful to reduce any acids or oils that even your fingers can get on the wire.
A pair of small pair needle nose pliers, circlip pliers or anything of that nature , that will fit the little holes to unscrew the switch retainer ring and driver retainer if needed.
I would be sure of the replacement parts before I tried it in case you do mess something up. You can only stay on the solder joint like a second or 2 at most or you will fry the little traces if you are close to them.
I have killed a few switches and a couple of drivers learning , but it gets easier each time so I would start with a less expensive light and work my way up personally.