I need ideas for a 12V battery

So here is the deal my plan. Lemme know what you think will work best. Tight space constraints and doing this on a budget.

I have a Ledil Seanna lens that has been sitting there for a year unused. I plan on using a defined XP-G2 in it.

I want to open up the end on a 50 cal fat boy ammo can and mount the 6.6” lens

I plan on water cooling everything with a cheap reservoir/pump

I plan on soldering the LED Noctigon to a copper plate and then soldering a water block to the copper plate. Then I’ll solder a heatsink and fan to the water block. I’ll have two water blocks with heatsinks and fans. One on the Noctigon and another in the back of the can just to help cool the water. I’ll cut holes in the can as air inlet and exit ports

I may possibly use these fans as they are cheap.

By actively cooling the LED with a lot of copper, water, and fans, I should be able to push it pretty hard. I really can’t think of another way to use this damn $60 lens so this is what I came up with. I’ll have to have 12v for the pump and fans and 3v for the LED so two power sources. Let me know what you think.

Nope. 3v LED. Unfortunately I’m gonna have to use 2 power sources :cry:

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You could drive the 3V LED from a 12V source with with a buck driver.
If space is a problem, 4 x 26350.

You could drive the 3V LED from a 12V source with with a buck driver.
If space is a problem, 4 x 26350.
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True, but I don’t know of any buck drivers that allow you to push the LED at all it’ll handle. Most are set currents. Basically I need a buck FET driver

Do we belive the water pump is only .4A?

and with flowing water cooling maybe you dont need as many fans?

my .02 is go for a 12v emitter (or combination) maybe the xhp35?

then just setup a single power supply, 3s2p or 3s3p might fit in the bottom nicely?

True, but I don’t know of any buck drivers that allow you to push the LED at all it’ll handle. Most are set currents. Basically I need a buck FET driver
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MTN MAX buck driver. Tell Richard what you need.

The seanna lens is for XP-E and XP-G size LED’s. I’d rather not hack on it to accept a different LED. Plus it’s meant for long distance, something 12v emitters aren’t known for

MTN MAX buck driver can be ordered up to 6A.

Duly noted.

the offer of the rechargeable 4/5SC cells is still on the table they are small and light and free.

1500 mAh ea

XHP-35 HI is 12V and throws like crazy.

I did similar a while back, but nothing as good or technical as your doing I used a hid not leds, anyway, I used a nos 12v battery pack meant for a 11 inch Samsung netbook to power it, fitted in the limited space I had perfectly , charged the pack through the pins with a made up cable and using info from on here.
The cells on some small Samsung packs are the purple icr18650 30A
(4.35 volts) which was a nice bonus, pulled the 2 packs apart when I’d finished with the torch/project.
Anyway just a thought, but they do make a nice safe self contained power source

Does the 3v led handle 4.2v too?

Use an XHP 35 HI. Then you can drive it from the same source.

Or use 3S only setup. Both fans and pump probably should fine on it, even if a bit slow in the end.
Or just some adjustable voltage regulator and 4S setup. Or

ok, so I was having a brain fart. I didn’t realize the xhp 35 HI was the same size as the XP-G2. So, if I went XHP 35, how would I wire everything up and control everything. I could do 4S4P 5500mah 26650’s. That’d be a lot of weight but I need it to power the LED as high as it’ll go and 2 fans and a pump. What is the max current y’all are pushing through the XHP35’s?

I think I figured out a solution. I can use an 18v Ryobi lithium battery. Off of it, I can spit to two regulators.

Use this one to control amperage and voltage to a XPH35 in the Seanna head. I figure I can run it at about 14.5 volts and 3 amps

Then for the pump and fans I can use this regulator. It has a 2 amp constant current which should be ok to use and set it down to 12 volts.

As per RMM, XHP35 on a DTP mcpcb is MAX 2.5A

Even with active water cooling?

I couldn’t tell you. I haven’t seen any real crash tests on this emitter. Four small dies at 2.5A each. I’m running one with a 2.5A driver, but tail reading is 2.8A.

If you are going through all this work anyway I would just get a spare emitter. Keep turning it up until the first one blows, then turn it down a little and replace it. And let us know what it could handle :slight_smile:

I like the way you think