I bought some 4x 7135, multi-mode drivers from Kaidomain to make some P60 drop-ins. The first two builds didn’t seem to work, and I though that was due to poor soldering technique, the soldering pads were the smallest that I had ever used.
I was extra careful on the third build, and it didn’t work at first either.
I direct wired a 3v lithium battery to the LED first, (it worked), and then to the center spring, (negative) and the reflector.
It works, just not when I put it in a host, (I’ve tried several). There is a pretty small spring for the negative post. If I remove the head piece, the drop-in is just 3mm - 4mm above contact with the light body.
If I press and hold the drop-in down to make contact, the LED works as expected as I cycle the switch. If I screw the lens head back on, it doesn’t press the drop-in into contact with the light body. No contact, no light.
How do I get either a longer spring, (it’s only 4mm X 4mm).
There’s no room for a larger diameter spring or find some way to add some kind of spacer between the lens and the drop-in?
Perhaps a better question is how do you all make this combination work?
De-solder your center spring and replace it with the one that came with the empty pill by soldering it on upside down like E1320 does with his drivers then bend in the last coil to ensure contact with the positive button on the battery.
If you need extra center springs, Manafont has some.
That little spring will give you fits sometimes. Like rojos said above replace it. I don’t replace it on mine, I just mesh the bigger spring with the little one and solder.
If its a solar force host? Or similar size - The large outer support spring - Make sure its tight around the first thread.
In your pic the spring isnt installed. It takes slight pressure to make sure you twist ist it beyond the smooth section and around almost threading it. Your reflector will also determine down force on your drop in adjust if you need additional down force. This should solve your problem …And i would recommend wrapping the drop-in in copper or aluminum tape until the fit is very snug. Prior to putting a cell and powering up give the host a good shake. If the drop in rattles or moves around? You
If its a Surefire drop-in don’t not use the support spring. I use a copper ring around the first thread , depending on the width of the reflector i add copper tape enough that i have to press the drop-in so its completely seated in the host.
One of these solutiions above along with the reply’s already given should work for you.
The worst thing you can do is to power up the light and not pay attention to the heat sink
qualities.
“and then to the center spring(negative)”. The center spring on the driver is positive. Battery neg goes through the tailcap switch to the host to the support spring to the pill/outer ring of driver.
Thanks Slewflash, I did stretch the existing spring. I used the screw driver blade of my Swiss Army Knife to apply downward pressure at the base of the spring while I gently stretched it to prevent pulling it off the driver board.
Rufusbduck, sorry about the “center of the spring (negative)” comment, I got that mixed up, distracted by the grand-kids.
Langcjl, I like that adding the big spring over the original one idea, thanks!
rojos, thank you for the E1320 and Manafont links !
DarkSide, good eyes, I had the outer spring removed while I was trying to figure out what to do. Thanks for the heat-sink tip too.
scaru, I like the ball bearing idea, I’ve got a small stash of copper BB’s somewhere, now to find them, they are older than my kids.
This one was bugging me because I only need a couple of mm’s more reach. I appreciate the speedy responses from everyone.
