Sounds pretty nice looking forward to beamshots/a review.
Very interesting. TY for posting ILF and TY for taking one for the team kramer5150. Looking forward to hear more about your impressions.
I’ll bring my Q-Beam and my sunglasses! LOL!
Well I told Rick that I thought this light was about 75mm across the reflector ind width. I was close. That’s the light I saw. And let’s see some beamshots dude!
Kramer5150 brought his Stanley Mad Max light to the GTG last night and I have to say that it was impressive. It out-threw my Q-Beam, that’s for sure. I’m considering getting one, now.
Yeah this ones definitely an XML thrower.
It noticeably out-threw my HD2010 (T6 @ 3.5A, 45-50K lux), with a tighter, more concentrated beam at any distance. While the HD2010 beam is tight, it will open up and spread out at ~150-200 yards. The Stanley beam remains more tightly concentrated at much farther distances (approximately 100+ yards beyond that). These are all ball-park distances.
The instructions say to fully charge the light for 6 hours before using it for the first time. It should be noted that I only gave it about 3-4 hours. So impressions above were made on the partially depleted Lithium battery inside. I let it charge overnight and I woke up this morning with the red flashing LED turned on solid green. Indicating a full charge.
bigchelis noticed my LED is slightly off-center. There were 2-3 of these on the shelf and I picked the one with the best centered LED. On a white-wall the beam spot is a very slightly egg-shaped. But in the field its not noticeable.
Its definitely got some mass to it as well. Its not just an empty plastic shell. So I think there is some heatsink cooling mass inside the light. I only really used it for spot-on bursts last night, but the outer heatsinks never really got warm. It was also very cold out for the first 1/3 of the night with a strong swirling wind. But it warmed at least 10-15 degrees for most of the evening. This light never got noticeably warm to the touch. I hand-carried it very comfortably for the last half of the hike, spot-lighting targets off in the distance and comparing it with the HD2010. Its DEFINITELY MUCH lighter than the Stanley HID, and much easier to pack and hand carry.
I’ll be taking it apart and posting lots of pics later today…. but out of the box this ones a winner. At $50 its unmatched as an XML thrower. You will have to spend probably $100-$150 to get another XML light that throws this far (if one even exists in that price range).
Do you have any idea on what type of battery pack it uses and the capacity? I think I may go get one today and take it apart to figure that out. Also I'm wondering whether it would work to put in a different driver and a u2 xm-l.
That is a pretty good bargain for a real XM-L thrower. I would love to see some internals.
I’ll post up the insides either tonight or day after.
^great, thanks.
Some disappointing news on the DIY front… I was unable to get the light apart. I easily removed the plastic kick stand, rubber handle grip, rubber bezel boot and all the screws easily enough. But the clamshell halves could not be separated. I pried and wrenched the two halves (like I always do when salvaging laptop-pack cells)… but the bugger simply wouldn’t pull apart. At one point I was afraid I had damaged/loosened the pivot joint of my Spyderco, I was bending it pretty good. No dice on this one. I was able to loosen it a bit and re-adjust the rubber gasket around the lens. But in the process I got some loose dirt/debris on the reflector.
So I can’t tell what battery this light uses, or how the heatsink design works.
Hm. Have you tried a dremel? 
fyi, I think my SL5W09 had screws hidden under the stickers
also, if that dimmer switch is suitable, this might be a great host for a custom programmed nanjg105c!
with the kind of performance you’re talking about (plus the beamshots already up in the cpf thread) - I’m dying to know what kind of current is going to the emitter.
I hope it is like 2A (but suspect its higher), because that would mean this has HUGE potential…
This is a must have light for me.
I’ve wanted the similarly designed streamlight waypoint for a long time but just couldn’t spend that much for a 210 lumen light
Bad news, I went to get one but they are out. I had called earlier in the day to ask if they had them and they did but since then they’ve sold out.
I removed all the stickers off mine except the heatsink warning label, and couldn’t find any more hidden screws. Looks a lot nicer without the stickers…IMHO
I ran some more crude tests to try and determine LED current.
First I did a thermal stability test by ceiling bounce comparison with my 3.5A driven HD2010. (note that its a 3.5A-7135 driver, but factoring in resistive losses the LED probably sees ~3.2A, I was told this by the member who modded the board). The HD2010 was slightly brighter. I guess the difference in brightness was “perceivable but not significant”. I then ran the stanley for 15 minutes unattended in a hot, stuffy, un-ventilated garage. It was about 85-90F in there. At the end of the run the heatsinks were hot to the touch, but not “panful-scalding-alarmingly hot”. I could still keep my hand firmly on it, without removing it form pain. I repeated the ceiling bounce comparison with the hot H/S and the difference in relative brightness levels remained about the same. So this leads me to think the stanley circuit design is not exceeding the thermal capabilities of its heatsink.
I let the stanley cool down and did another ceiling bounce comparison. For this I used the HD2010 and the MXDL turbohead (modded both with 7135 drivers). Both lights have ~52mm reflectors and are designed for XML throw. Both use T6 BIN emitters and are in the 45-50K lux vicinity. Between the two lights I have output modes at ~1.5A, 2.5A and 3.2A (again factoring in losses) at my disposal. Beween the 3 current levels the stanley is slightly dimmer than the 2.5A, and more noticeably brighter than the 1.7A. If I had to venture a wild guess, its somewhere in the vicinity of 2.0-2.3A.
I really wish I could get the damn thing apart!!!
It uses some kind of E-switch to control mode switching so theres most likely an EPROM in there somewhere.
Wow, I wonder what would happen with it driven to 3.1 amps. :D
kinda figured you’d taken the stickers off. I agree, they look terrible.
thanks for the detailed info. I think you’re probably right about the current, although I wonder if it isn’t a little lower and the perceived brightness has more to do with the reflector size.
I can’t wait to see the insides. I’m hoping it isn’t too hard to add another heatsink where the stand is.
OH - I’ve just recalled how I got the 09 apart (in order to remove the 6AAA and replaced with 6AA).
There were screws under the rubber handle grips. I destroyed them getting them off (because I didn’t care and was already planning to beef up the size of the handle)….but if they’re glued on the same as the 09, a heat gun or hair dryer will probably make them easier to remove.
Be very cautious when you get it apart. The solder joints on the emitter leads in my 09 were TERRiBLY weak.
well… FWIW I was doing ceiling bounce comparisons, to help negate the effects of beam pattern concentration in all my comparisons. I have always found this far more accurate than actually looking at the beam itself, when comparing lumen output.
good point. I read ‘ceiling bounce’ but was imagining you looking at the beam :~
Same here. But I did get their last old Maglite 2D.