Individual 18650 capacity formula? | Best brand laptop battery for 18650 cells?

… I agree! That

But I can’t see where anyone ever said that. Balancing cells is only an issue for multi-cell lights…

You throw them away recycle them when they won’t hold a charge anymore. When you pull one from the charger and it drops from 4.2v soon after (especially if it keeps dropping — that’s a hoot to watch), that’s one to recycle. If your torch goes dim too soon, adios to that cell too. If you’re feeding a multi-cell torch, match cells as best you can (0.1v is still extreme — you’re going to stop discharging them at ~3v anyway) and keep the sets together for life.

If our packs have dead cells, well, that explains why we got them for free. Otherwise, if all the cells test good, the protection circuit is all that’s left to blame — for our free cells.

Let me start out with a little background.

I quit smoking about 4 years ago and got into electronic cigarettes. When I moved up to the larger mods I needed 18650 cells. So, I started scavenger packs which got me into flashlights and mobile power banks for charging my phones and tablets off of.

I’ve busted a lot of packs and probably have 250+ 18650 cells here at the moment and given away another 150-200. I have about 2.5 shoe boxes full… And not little ones…the kind that hold size 12’s …so my count may be way off.

The numbers on the pack don’t give a lot of insight, you can grab 2 packs with the same WH and voltage etc and 1 could have Sanyo 2200mah cells and the other sony 2400mah cells.

I try to pick the smallest pack, so obviously the least amount of cells which is usually 6, with the highest WH rating.

As long as you stick with the name brand packs you will always get good UL listed cells. Stay away from the knockoff replacements from china.

I’ve got a few newer packs and they seem to be using Sanyo 2800’s as of lately. But generally you will harvest cells between 2200-2400mah and the occasional 2600mah. Newer packs may contain 2800’s.

Do not get the newer apple brand packs as they are no longer lithium ion cells. The older square ones that are about 3/4” thick will contain 6 cells.

You will normally get Sanyo/Samsung/Sony/Panasonic and LG’s, which are all great cells.

Here’s how I test them…

Be careful because stabbing yourself in the hand with a screwdriver and paper cut like slices from the very thin steel bands happens too. Wearing gloves is challenging so being very careful and taking my time is my method.

Once i bust them out I start disconnecting them in groups…usually groups of 2’s. Be very careful not to jump a pair of them. The tabs that are spot welded on the tops of the cells have weaker/smaller welds and come off the positive and negative terminals much easier than older cells. Either way I use a pair of needle nose pliers and get an edge up enough that I can get a grip on it…snug the side of the pliers over as close to the welds and grip on, then with a twist of my wrist roll the pliers. Usually they come off pretty clean. But, sometimes you will have some tiny sharp barbs that may need a little grinding. Try to keep the cells in the same pairs you took them out in.

Now it’s time to test voltages. I have the colors and marking pretty much memorized, you can decide if you would like to search what they are during whichever step you choose so you know what you have.

Usually the electronics in the packs go bad before the cells. Any group of cells that are lower voltage than the rest…and usually there will be a big difference, they get pitched.

Any cells showing signs of heat or corrosion get tossed. Usual cells will be above 3.0v anything down to 2.5v or so I try to bring back but it may not always happen. Below 2.5v I toss.

Now you can start charging the cells. Never leave the room for more than 10-15 minutes without checking the cells for excess heat. If the cells are just a tad bit warm that’s ok, but if they start getting hot they need pitched, due to the internal resistance and to reduce chances of having an issue down the road…it’s just not worth it.

DO NOT start charging cells and leave your house for an hour or 2 unless your insurance is paid up and you don’t mind living in a hotel or with your In-laws for awhile.

Once fully charged I check voltage make sure they are topped off…obviously any cell that took much longer than 2-3hours to charge to 4.2v is probably done for.

Over tenet month or cell I do checks on the cells… A few days after the charge I check voltages crossed all cells and not e them if it helps you. Then again at 1 week, 2 weeks and 1 month.

If they went from 4.20v to 4.18v in a month or so that’s within the normal range. But if you check them and a week late they are at 4.12 or 4.09 etc then you may want to consider putting them in a cool dark corner for emergencies or just get rid of them. That’s a person preference as you can decided what’s acceptable to you.

Manufacturers tell you that cells will degrade less over time if left at a half charge, which from what I have seen is usually around 3.5v or so. I haven’t found this to be true. I have cells I charged 2 years ago that still have a voltage around 4.12-4.18 and work just fine and if their capacity has diminished, it’s not noticeable to me over some fresh cells.

I leave all my cells charged fully should I need them.

If there’s any information I might bye able to share with any of you please feel free to let me know. I have browsed this forum for about the past 18 months off and on and after reading this topic I figured now is the time to make an account.

This really is a great resource for flashlight and battery related info.

Regards,

–30cal

Welcome to the neighborhood!

I have gotten some decent cells from buying packs from amazon warehouse deals. Most of the cheap ones are chinese cells (usually cap test around 2000-2400mah) but every so often you get lucky and get jap\korean cells. There are several 6 cell packs on there now for less than $10, even for decent chinese cells is good price imo.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=sr_pg_1?me=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&rh=n%3A1267878011%2Ck%3Abattery%2Cn%3A3545095011&bbn=1267878011&sort=price&keywords=battery&ie=UTF8&qid=1384501979

If your going to buy laptop packs check your local goodwill, mine has a store specifically for electronics. They sell them for $10 with no refund. I have scored a couple good ones.

Also, be careful of any cells with the wraps torn or pieces missing as they could short out on your tubes.

Fasttech also sells replacement laptop batteries and they are the OEM packs for a reasonable price, much less than the cost of cells within them. So if your looking for a specific pack, or can track down the ones with the largest cells that might be an option.

I’m certain you guys know you can add your own PCB and re-shrink wrap them. Fasttech sells shrinkwrap for 18650’s. 2 meters for $1 and some change. I just bought 5 colors and used the “BLF” coupon code…with free shipping it cost me around $4.50.

Thanks you sir!

We need to start tearing down tesla battery packs.

Can’t wait to get my hands on these:

First let me thank you for your help. Here I’m quoting the post on the other forum:

“7. measure cell voltage. if cell voltage has fallen more than .1v from the recorded voltage, throw it away.”

30calsolution, thank you very much for your response. I’m very new at this and planing to use the unprotected batteries only in one cell 18650 flashlights like the XinTD C8 from intl outdoor that I have. I’ve been kind of paranoid so far and every time I use the flashlight I keep track of its usage and replace the cell every 2 hours all around. I don’t think I’ve seen any battery that charged all the way to 4.2 volts; most of them get to 4 volts and after a couple of weeks in storage they’ll read 3.9 volts but it could be the charger. I have a Trustfire and just bought a ML-102 but didn’t use it yet. Do you have any recommendations for a charger? By the way, most of the batteries I’ve got from laptop pulls are CGR18650CG from an Acer pack, US18650GR from a Lenovo pack and UR18650FM from a Lenovo pack too. I still have a couple of packs to open but I already have more batteries than I will ever need.

Thanks again.

You will get many good answers to this question. I hope this helps:

I highly recommend getting a “$2.00 special” and plug it in outside somewhere. Well-sheltered, of course!! Mine sits in a metal cookie tin I scrounged from the trash somewhere, on a concrete slab floor with nothing significant nearby. It’s one of the ones with its own 5v “wall wart”, so my worst case is still no big deal. Every “new” or “suspect” salvaged battery gets its first/next/only charge there. Thence, I watch them pretty closely and keep them all topped off (on the “house charger”) as the lights get dim.

As you’re probably starting to notice, having a wretched excess of batteries makes a lot of this somewhat ‘academic’… Which is why I keep harping on Sony’s Handbook.

http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?240304-gt-FS-Cottonpickers-Chargers-incl-Worlds-smallest-Li-ion-charger-with-display

$17 shipped, amazing quality, super safe for your batteries and lets them live a long life. 700ma basic charger would be great for 18650 batteries, pick a smaller one if charging 14500 and other small batteries too (or get a dual rate one).

-Jamie M.

Dimbo The Blinky, thanks, that’s what I do when I charge the batteries for first time, outside very far of anything. I’m sorry to ask this but what is a “$2.00 special”?

Thanks for the tip.

Maybe he means something like

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10004491/1351900

or

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10000436/1046800

Not sure though, I used those blindly on laptop pack cells before I got a decent charger.

You can get those "18650 charger" off ebay for like $3-$4 from the US.

That would be correct, sir! I recall lower prices, but I haven’t looked in awhile. Mostly I meant any cheap charger you won’t mind losing in a “worst-case scenario”. I test mine before I trust them, which I also forgot to mention… So far, even the cheapest cuts off properly at 4.2v, and takes an appropriate amount of time to feed in the coulombs. It doesn’t get “good cells” warm-to-the-touch while charging, so I trust it for what it’s worth. But if a bad cell melts it down, “so what, who cares”.

Cool, I learned what that "C" is called in charge rates from your post (At least I think!). A Coulomb.

I am going waaaaaaayy off topic here, but is that the worst a 18650/Li-Po will do? Just melt down?

I've been afraid of one exploding and becoming a potentially lethal projectile.

First off, “Li-Co” does not equal “Li-Po” in any non-trivial way, AFAICT. Just saying. IOW, don’t develop procedures for LiCo and hope they’ll work for LiPo. Not to say you can’t “swing both ways”, but…

As for me, I am looking for a reliable way to cause this failure mode! So far, I have only been able to find “look at this mess after _” anecdotes.

If I can cause the problem, I own the problem and can make it go away.

The fact that some of those anecdotes include violent explosions make the quest worth taking, IMNERHO.

But that same fact wrecks post-mortem Discovery and Analysis.

I have a TrustFire TR-001 and a Miller ML-102. The TrustFire TR-001 charges the battteries I have to 3.9 volts and the Miller charges them to 4.0 volts. Could it be the batteries? Which batteries would be the best ones from the ones I have? Thanks again. By the way, the batteries I have are CGR18650CG, US18650GR and UR18650FM.

Most cells don't become a bomb ...So I wouldn't be so worried about an explosion if a battery is in a charger .I wouldn't be worried about flying shrapnel..I would be worried about a chemical fire .

All the silly talk about using trash chargers with used laptop pulls is imo very bad advice.

If you're going to play with recycled laptop packs then get lots of packs and get a good feel for what garbage looks like ....New unused older oem packs off ebay are so cheap it makes digging thru recycling bins almost foolish .

Always check voltages ....keep your eye on older cells ...mark them, and toss them as soon as you think "maybe they are weak "

+1 !!

That point can’t be stressed enough, IMO. Pay Attention or Pay Attorneys, I always say.

I don’t even wait for “maybe”. If a cell so much as looks funny, off to the recycle bin it goes! I don’t care. There are plenty more where that came from, and recycling helps feed the supply side.

Boaz makes good laptop pack points too. Please recall the copious blood in dchomak’s Very Accurate photos…

Recycling laptop packs is as “Budget” as it gets, but the cost must be borne by your brain or your @$$ will pay. The scars are the receipts for the tuition.

Dim