Interested in a multi-AA side-by-side light? **EDIT: Change vote if needed**

LED Flashlights – General Info 1 x AA / 1 x 14500 Flashlights
21

I voted no interest. I'd like to see more 3*AA lights. Far more useful IMO since, if properly designed, can house a 32650 or a cartridge with 3*AA. If you want it as thin as possible make it so it takes a 26650 instead of a 32650.

3*AA is no greater in diameter than a 2*AA and an XM-L or XP-G can be properly driven by 3*AA where it can't off of 2*AA. If I want to use Li-Ion I'll use a large single cell but in a pinch I could use AA cells. We need more lights like the C88.

Keeping a 2*AA format and making the light flat will do one of two things...

  1. The head will remain the same size as the body and the reflector will be tiny and useless to me or..
  2. It will have a standard head at least 28mm in diameter with a flat body (like the TK35) totally defeating any small size gained by the flat battery tube. A flashlight is only as compact as it's largest part and if it has a 28mm reflector then I want a body that will take 3*AA, not 2*AA

Just my thoughts on the subject.

22

A 0.9v to 4.2v driver only needs a boost circuit, whereas 1.8v to 8.4v would require both a boost and a buck circuit. I don't know of anything "AA-light sized" that will do that. Even the common 0.9v-4.2v drivers don't have that much output on the lower half of that voltage range.

It would probably be more feasible to set up the light for the cells in parallel. But it's really hard to get good output from 1.x volts.

23

+1

One more vote for 3AA (with proper non-crappy led). Something like budget version of Olight S35.

24

+1

Side-by-side 1S2P would work for 0.9-4.2V thus allowing both use of standard AA's and 14500's.

25

Very interested indeed IF:

#1 -NOT DESIGNED for "thrower".

#2 -No ridiculous SOS/Strobe ( under x KHz PWM is also counted as a Strobe), CC preferred

#3 -Not "flat-out" -driven. More interested in generally usable amount of light for longer time WITHOUT burns in hands (DQG Tiny AA = No No, DQG Tiny AAA = GoGo!!)

The idea is to get a SMALL 2x AA light. Not long, smaller is carried more often as EDC.

EDC is your all-rounder. It is not a Thrower, small lights & reflector throw like they do... get another for that.

It is not a powerhouse, get another for that also.

EDC is a light that gets a lot of carrying time, it will collect points from giving good, general nice & wide beam, simple UI, long runtime=less downtime/recharge time

If it´s oging to be a 2 x AA, how about putting a SMALL reflector or preferrably TIR in it to cover only 50% of the head of the light.

Use the second half of the space from the head for example Zebralight-style clicky & driver compartment.

This way you will escape the need to make light longer because of the clicky and gain a millimeter or two from relocating driver also.

Like so:

http://www.dabbleboard.com/draw?b=Guest1009204&i=2&c=f75cd998fd1154f43134ce1f023755b9779bfc82

This way it will be shorter than most 1 x AA clickies. If 2 x AA is used, reflector will not be big anyway if not 3 x AA.

So, make it small by default.

26

I would be more interested in 3AA or 4AA format (heck even 6AA) and I go along with JohnnyMac too.

I prefer a "fatty" to a long and skinny.

-Garry

27

The thing is, if you are going to have a light that is 2AA and the cells are in parallel, there’s no reason to have a 2-cell light. Just carry a single-cell light and a spare cell. :slight_smile:

(Not directed at turboBB)

The point of having a 2AA light is the increased voltage. The closer we get the battery voltage to the Vf of the LED, the less it has to be boosted and the efficiency goes up greatly.

28

I know this design is horrible, but is another idea, and looks pocket-friendly

29

that's the spy007

30

I realized that when i finished the idea :P anyway, the spy uses 2x CR123, which make it fatter, and not a clicky but a magnetic wheel or something like that.

AND the other thing is that is machined in titanium and costs over 500usd. I think an AA based model, can be made if you use aluminum and/plastic, like the TK-35 for under 30-40usd

31

The thing that makes the side by side hard is that you have to figure out how to get the cells in there and seal it up. :) Like JohnnyMac said 3AA requires a circle no bigger than 2AA, BUT you don't need a circle if you don't have a screw-on tailcap or head (like LD40/TK35). An oval around 2AA would be far more compact and entirely pocketable (unlike a triple AA).

While you are at it, you might as well make it a side by side LED/reflector design for more efficiency/output.:)

32

I reworded the question since 14500 support seems to be out of reach. I made a note of this in post #2. I'm still interested in more budget multi-AA lights though so lets keep this going.

33

How about 2 x 14500 size of this?

34

A 3 or 4AA design like the Underwater Kinetics (UK) ones would be interesting. They are dive lights so are presumably adequately weather resistant. 3AA in series matches a single lithium ion cell but gives significantly better runtime. Something optimised for 3xAA NiMH would be wonderful. Basically same voltage range as a single 14500 if anyone wants to optimise weight at the expense of runtime.

35

Runtime.

36

I actually like the idea of 3 or 4 x AA with a sleeve that handles 18650 and/or 26650. At first I wasn't big on the idea of 3 x AA because it leaves an odd number of batteries for charging (assuming one wants to just charge whatever is in the light). I don't think this should be too unique of a design though. It should still be simple and common enough to become popular so we start seeing more of them from several manufacturers.

37

It could run at 1 amp or so for about 400 lumens. (guessing)

I don't really see the point in a side by side unless its going to be bright for its size.

Also dont forget it will be 3 modes, if you want run time? Dont keep it on high the whole time.

38

If not?

Why bother?

39

The same could be said for making a light with low output for runtime in the first place, why bother?

If its a EDC you might need it bright, you might not, at least you have the option of making it bright when you need it and run time when you only need a little light.

If you make it just for low output and runtime then when you need it bright you cant have it, at least with the other you can have both.

For example with my L2, I only use high outdoors in big open areas or to show someone how bright it is.

Most of the time I use it on medium for indoors and low for up close.

If you need the run time cos you use a torch all day I doubt any EDC will be up to the job in the first place.

40

Agreed about a billion percent....