One of these days, I’m going to have to make a smaller, brighter UV light than the one I have now (L2m w/ KD drop-in and 2x18350). I mean, it’s definitely not bad… but it’s a bit large and, er, why not?
When Digikey get’s this neutral white back in stock, I’ll be grabbing one and picking up the color driver. I wonder if RMM will resister mod a color driver. He mods all the other ones he sells.
Don’t forget my driver. Made some recent FW upgrades… 2A PER CHANNEL!
I didn’t know they were for sale. For some reason I thought they were for your own proprietary use. I’ll have to get with you when I get a XML Color. Also, a little bird told me that there will be more SinkPads available soon.
For some reason, your “2A PER CHANNEL!” made me think of this. 
Any other good source for this LED?
Newbie question.
After trying to follow the discussion of the pro’s, my question seems a bit ridiculous, but:
I have bought a Convoy S2+ with a 3*7135 driver (AK47-A) and swapped the XM-L2 U2-1A led with the UV-led on Noctigon from Intl-Outdoor.
Seems that nothing went wrong, no flash, no smoke and UV light comes out at the business-end, like it is supposed to do.
Before I swapped the led’s I got 1.02A at the tailcap with the XM-L2 in it. When I put a DMM at the tailcap after the swap, I get 0.8A from the UV-led.
Did I do something wrong or is that OK, considering the different characteristics of the two leds.
Is there anything to be gained by swapping the driver with a 4*7135 version, or should I leave it as it is en be happy about it.
Leave it as is and be happy with it. Does it make output within your expectations? Does it do the job you were looking for?
If you CAN leave it like it is and be happy with it, you’ll be better off. Looking for more is the beginning of a sickness most of us here have and you’ll never recover. 
The XM-L2 runs at a much lower voltage and the driver even has to limit the current by burning some voltage off. The uv-led has a higher voltage and the battery under load combined with other resistances in the circuit can not provide the 3.95V voltage needed to get the led at 1050 mA. So it stops at 800mA.
Thanks for your answers. Yes I think it does the job I built it for. But there’s (almost) always that inner voice: “what if….”.
Djozz was kind enough to explain in terms I can handle that the “missing” 0.2Amps apparently never had the intention of showing up at all.
So I leave the light as is and go beachcombing with it in the fall, to see which presents the high tide has for me.
And when the long winter evenings come, who knows…. Till then I’ll follow the old (Zen?) saying “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”.
So I got one of these, at the Ebay link below for 4.99 shipped. (The Ebay link shows a different LED, but the die in the one I received is very similar to the one in the OP).
I had a Noctigon board that I transferred an LED from previously, so I took it off the aluminum board, and re-flowed it onto that. Picture below (Yes, I cleaned up the solder on the + and -)
I have it running direct drive from a 14500 cell, and tail cap reading is about 950ma. Shows everything on a MI license great, and definitely seems to be the correct wavelength. Very noticeably different than my 405nm light. For what I paid, I’m happy.
what about the UV on a noctigon from RMM, is it pretty accurate to 365nm ?
The uv-led that RMM sells is the same as the intl-outdoor led from the OP.
How would you compare it to the solarforce UV drop in? As I have that one and it puts out too much light like non UV light. I went ahead and ordered the UV from RMM it's going in a convoy s2 micro
I do not have the Solarforce drop-in but by the looks of it it uses an older type of led. That does not tell anything about the percentage of visible light of course.
If you want virtually no visible light, the Nichia 276A is the best there is, but it is not cheap 
, I did a test on it too: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/31647
I would love to have that on aa noctigon
Does not fit, it has just two electrical connection pads on the underside with no thermal pad, like the 119.
FWIW, I have the Kaidomain drop-in in a 2x18350 host and RMM/IOS’s UV emitter in a 1x16340 host. The KD one is a little bit brighter and has a purple haze; the RMM/IOS one works better on one cell and has more of a white haze. Both are very good at lighting up UV-sensitive materials such as the hidden red/green checkered “20” on a UK £20 note.
This “20” doesn’t really show up with a 395nm light:
I like the RMM/IOS one better overall because it works well in a smaller host and because it can use standard flashable drivers.
Do you need eye protection for this kind of uv leds? If yes, what kind of protection?
Oh yes, you do need eye protection or your eyes are going to hurt!!
Most sunglasses already block most of the UV, I have yellow safety glasses that are suitable, and my Bollé transparent impact glasses appear to block UV pretty effectively. but perhaps the best is to look for special UV protection glasses.
I was considering getting a UV light just for fun, but when I thought about the eye risk, I decided against it. It’s the same reason I don’t mess around with lasers. The eyes are too precious and too sensitive.