You are correct Sir. A little tiny twist, total travel of no more than a mm or two, maybe even less.
Sidney Stratton:Then it’s not 2 mm.
A millimeter is about .040” .03937”
Check a ruler.Edit; maybe you should have said a couple of thousandths (.001 to .002”).
Edit 2: a hair’s thickness is .004” in machinist’s terms.When I was an apprentice…
DavidEF said it right.
A very very small amount of ROTATION. Maybe a mm or two, or less.
One of my lights, fiicr which one, though, had the ano “wear off” just enough that a fractional-turn to lock out just isn’t enough anymore. And even when “locked out” but the tailswitch on, pressing on the tailcap can in fact turn it on again. Gaaah, trying to remember which one…
Anyway, whichever threads are made to be unscrewed should be the ones used. Given my druthers, I’d even use weak loctite to lock the head-to-tube threads so that they don’t accidentally unscrew.
If the anodization wears, I can just lock through the tail or the switch, not the end of the light.
I hope you don’t measure light bulbs in circumferential size as I once had a chap that did do so. Threw me off completely!
So now I understand your dismay: “It is not two turns, it is literally just cracking the flush fit. You literally could not fit a hair in the gap. I know I am dumb, especially in math, but what you said makes no sense to me.”
I hope you don’t measure light bulbs in circumferential size as I once had a chap that did do so. Threw me off completely!
So now I understand your dismay: “It is not two turns, it is literally just cracking the flush fit. You literally could not fit a hair in the gap. I know I am dumb, especially in math, but what you said makes no sense to me.”
LOL
I hope you don’t measure light bulbs in circumferential size as I once had a chap that did do so. Threw me off completely!
So now I understand your dismay: “It is not two turns, it is literally just cracking the flush fit. You literally could not fit a hair in the gap. I know I am dumb, especially in math, but what you said makes no sense to me.”
Well, he did say “a twist of a couple of mm” not “an opening of a couple mm” so…
ChrisGarrett:It’s just easier for me to lock out the tail, since it’s more intuitive.
Chris
But if you really wanted to put your light into service in a hurry, a 2 mm twist on the fat part is way faster and less likely to cause a miss due to sweat, blood, grease or whatever.
For me at least, it’s not too difficult and I have SWM V11R/M11R lights, that I twist the heads on, so I’m not really too worried about things.
Most of my tailcap lights, I just loosen them and with ~18 lights at arm’s length, I’m not sweating things at all, but do what’s comfortable for you.
I’m more concerned about employing my G22 in an emergency, than any light that I have.
Chris
scosgt: ChrisGarrett:It’s just easier for me to lock out the tail, since it’s more intuitive.
Chris
But if you really wanted to put your light into service in a hurry, a 2 mm twist on the fat part is way faster and less likely to cause a miss due to sweat, blood, grease or whatever.
For me at least, it’s not too difficult and I have SWM V11R/M11R lights, that I twist the heads on, so I’m not really too worried about things.
Most of my tailcap lights, I just loosen them and with ~18 lights at arm’s length, I’m not sweating things at all, but do what’s comfortable for you.
I’m more concerned about employing my G22 in an emergency, than any light that I have.
Chris
That is automatic, no pun intended.