Is there any op ref or tir lens for Tool AA 2.0?

I do not like the beam profile with stock smo reflector and I am looking for a replacement.
I checked KD and Yajiamei store and found nothing matching.

Diameter 15mm
Height 14.4mm

I modded one of my Tool AAs (the Panda White) some time ago and I used a pebbled TIR lens from Yajimei.

I used one of these without the white holder:

In mine I am using the glass lens + TIR, and then a thicker driver, what originates that there is “gap” in the threading oustide. I had to use more grease and another ring externally to help “sealing” or trying to avoid any water or dust penetration.

Still, it serves well and gives an awesome floody beam!

I also have a Tool AA 2.0, this one the version w/219C. Horrible beam in smooth reflector, massive donut hole. I have some DC Fix on the way to help it.

17mm TIRs are fairly common. At worst you’d have to shave one down 1mm all around.

Then again, there might be some intentional “slop” that a 15mm glass is dropped into a 16mm hole, so you’d only have to shave ½mm all around.

I was thinking about this optics, but I don’t want to change the driver. This one suits me, because you can use 14500 and AA.
I could gain 1mm more by exchanging glass for 2mm, but I can’t find one either.

Yes, big donut hole. Everyone recommends this flashlight and I have not yet come across an opinion that would criticize this huge flaw.
I checked some leds with this reflector and it’s always the same. Default xp-l2, 219c, xp-l hi, shaved 351d and now i have sst20 with dc fix, but this beam doesn’t suit me either. Instead of dc fix I prefer to use tir optics. As far as I have the opportunity.

Grinding the edges would not be a problem for me, but the optics must have the right height.

I have one of these in a Jet-1 MK, and filed one down diameter-wise so it would fit in a Eagtac D25A and they’re ok, i’ll see how it fits in a Tool and let you know, might take a couple of days though:

I’ve also got a couple of other 14/15mm TIRs i got from KD that i used in a couple of L3 Illumination L10s, will dig them out too and give them a go.
And if you’re veeeery lucky and i can figure out my password you might even get beamshots :smiley:

So, I did some “test” with my Tool Pand to check how it worked with and without the glass.

Only the pebbled TIR + gasket + pill w/ stockdriver:

Glass + Pebbled TIR + gasket + pill w/ stockdriver
On this one, I added the o-ring outside, as I mentioned on my previous post, due to the incorporation of the glass lens

I also use a TIR from my Amutorch S3 flashlight, that fits well, doesn’t need gasket, and produces a tighter beam. I am not using the glass lens in this one, but I believe it may have some sealing issues in case it drops into water!
This type, I never found it on sale, I just picked it from one of my Amutorch lights.

Beams (on the ceiling):
Original reflector w/ Samsung LH351D 5000K >>> Pebbled TIR w/ Luxeon V2 3000K >>> Narrow TIR w Nichia ~4500K

Just a heads-up that the horrible beam of the Tool AA 2.0 can be fixed, I did that succesfully for my aluminium version and also my ti version: replace the stock centerpiece with a generic “butterfly”-type 3535 centerpiece (clipped to clear the sides and solder blobs), such as sold by kaidomain, and ream the hole in the stock reflector so that it fits the new centerpiece. No other adjustments needed. At least for a domeless led (in my case shaved LH351D), I get perfect focus, no donut hole, no rings, just a beautiful hotspot.

I dont have any problems with rings or donut holes.
This is a (bad) pic of my Tool Ti swapped with SST20
I did use all original components

By “doughnut hole”, do youse mean a slight darker spot in the center, usually blue-tinged?

If so, that usually means it’s perfectly in focus. The reflector wraps around the LED almost like a belt (exaggerate the center hole and shorten it quite a bit to visualise it). Only light that hits that gets thrown forward, in a ring. The middle part (“hole”) is just spill (yeah, think about it).

So to get rid of the hole, you actually have to defocus it slightly. So a small shim, or sanding down the reflector a bit, works just like the different-spacer solution above.

Even my P30 with super-duper polished reflector has a teenytiny “hole” in the center, as do other super-throwers that are in perfect focus. In most cases, though, unless you’re white-wall hunting, you won’t even notice.

A small reflector where the hole for the LED is a significant part of the reflector’s area, yeah, the hole is gonna be proportionately bigger.

A perfectly focused led does not produce a donut hole. Only at small distances at which the beam is not formed yet you will see one, but at working distance it is gone. My whitewallhunts are at 7 meters and all my throwers except the GT are fully collimated and donut-free at that distance.

I found that a sliced LH351D produces a ring originating from the edge of the rather narrow reflector hole, so widening the reflector hole made it go away (so a different centerpiece was needed). The SST-20 has a smaller die and a dome so much less light hits that edge.

Thanks for the clarification Jos!

Sure. By the time you get that far out, the disc will blur and cover up the hole. The center of the LED will be in perfect focus, but the edges and especially corners won’t be. So rays from those parts won’t be perfectly parallel, and cover up the hole as a result.

I don’t WWH nearly that far out, mostly from seated and shining up at the ceiling, or across the room. Hole.

Speaking of which, right now being that it’s handy, my ’micro has a yellowish “hole” when shined on the ceiling. Hmm, thought it’d be blue. Eh, whatever. :laughing: