I won’t do it again. It makes many rings so it’s awful without an OP reflector. I plan to dedome it just to get rid of the rings.
Ha! I recognize that little reflector... they do work well. I think I have about a half-gallon ziplock bag full of them by now...
To answer the original question - my favorite P60 type drop in light engines are from Malkoff and Torchlabs.
Bright and floody - http://www.malkoffdevices.com/drop-in-mod/dropins-for-surefire-and-malkoff/m91s-to-fit-surefire-malkoff/m91a-dropin
Medium bright with long throw - http://www.malkoffdevices.com/drop-in-mod/dropins-for-surefire-and-malkoff/md60-for-surefire-weapon-lights/md60-for-surefire-weapon-lights
And last but brightest (1600 lumens with optics for throw) - http://www.oveready.com/a-engines-heads/torchlab-h3-h/m/l-triple-three-level-drop-in-1600l-/prod_269.html
I own several of all three and will tell you that they are excellent quality engines with excellent warranties. I have many others but these are my favorites in the P60 platform.
My 2 cents.
3 Nichia 219’s making 1600 lumens from 4.65A? Not gonna happen.
I have the high powered 219 that supposedly makes 476 lumens at 1.5A, from the data sheet. So in theory, 4.5A would yield an emitter lumens total from 3 lights of 1418. None of the emitters I know of will make 100% efficiency, or even close.
And I also have a Triple 219 Hi CRI light that makes 493.35 lumens (30 sec) at 4.16A. Somebody is Over-rambunctious with their numbers. This particular light is in a full copper silver plated shell, with the high end electronics and bumped to the higher amps by me. It’s not a cheap light, it’s been measured in a lightbox for OTF lumens, and I really really like it. But it’s no beast.
Thanks for those links, some very nicely made high end P-60’s!
Have you seen a reflector for a P-60 that does a better hot spot than these? I like it, nice center hot spot, nice spill, the transition is good too. When Matt recommended it for his shell, I knew what it was immediately, as you’ve applauded it’s creds for a while now. 
'Better hot spot' - you're gonna have to define 'better', lol. Could mean too many different things to different people. It may seem weird to pair a de-domed LED with an OP reflector, but it gives a really nice, usable output, doesn't it?
It works good with a de-domed XPG2 too, maybe better than with XML2. Depends on what you want from it though I guess.
Here's a teaser of a discarded prototype for a C8, I'll keep trying until I can make one with the plating still intact. Polishing isn't much fun. :(
I’ll polish it! 
I like polishing things, have for many many years. The trick here is not taking the easy route. We tend to want to spin it to make it easy to polish, but that leaves any and all cuts and grooves in a direct cross path in relation to the light. So if a much more difficult top to bottom polishing approach is used, the fine lines and microscopic scratches will be running parallel to the light’s direction and causing much less disturbance to getting lumens downrange.
This is the way I see it, anyway, I have no scientific or actual data to back this up.
Very nice and bulky copper design! Is it sized, length-wise, so it gets tight on the bottom when you screw the head of the flashlight on, without using a spring? What do you wrap it with to get side contact? Is that white stuff thermal epoxy or thermal silicone, or just regular white silicone? I’m not familiar with that little reflector, so do you have a link where it is sold?
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1208702
Same part, but cheaper - no idea why: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1575000
Same as the first two, but smooth instead of OP: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1575001
This one works GREAT with XPG2 in the smaller CR123/16340 lights: http://www.fasttech.com/products/1203502
It does fit snugly, no spring. I didn’t have any copper foil so I just used a strip of aluminum.
The white stuff is Acrtic Alumina Thermal Paste. Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive on top of the wires on the contact pad, to prevent a short as well as on the legs of the chips battery side for the same reason. Seemed to me this would be much thinner than an insulation ring and allow the reflector to sit all the way down. The reflector is a tubular design that fits the shell beautifully, slipping snugly into it and difficult to remove once in. To take those pics proved rather exasperating, couldn’t get the reflector to budge! Finally used enough kinetic energy that it came out.
Comfy? Got a link to that reflector? I’m not at my computer at the moment…
Wow, yea that’s a handy little reflector. It would fit right in a hole bored in a nice chunk o’copper. When I get my lathe, I can definately see using those in some projects.
Would it fit a bored AA minimag? Hmmm
But yeah, nice profile, way better than any of those reflectors screwed onto the little brass pill for sure.
Sorry - first I've seen this thread. So the details are 4.49A, de-domed XM-L2, OP P60 reflector, 852 lumens. Something is wrong if it's a U2 1A. What's the bin and tint? Is the LED on a copper star? I see it's a SinkPAD in the pic...
I've gotten better #'s in P60's at lower amps. Figure 20% off for de-doming, so what you have is about 1,070 lumens domed.
My #'s: XM-L2 U2 1A/Noctigon, 3.80A QLite (2x 7135's), SMO reflector, 502B host, AR lens: 1,217 lumens at 30 secs
Same pill, 501B, unwrapped: 1,173 lumens at 30 secs
Same pill, same 501B wrapped, 1,234 lumens at 30 secs
Same pill, L2T host (back bezel), AR lens: 1,108 at 30 secs
Numbers can be all over the place in P60's. P60 hosts with black fairly large bezels can easily knock down 100 lumens. The L2T stock is a bad host for output, for example.
OP reflectors will always knock down throw, but will get equal or better lumens output. Extensive P60 tests showed that, published here somewhere.
Looks like perfect weather to stay in and make your wife’s day…
…modding of course.
P60’ would be great if not for the inherent design flaws of a brass pill and poor fit both of which are surmountable but limit the performance of unenhanced models. It wouldn’t be a “drop in” or fit so many different makes if it were threaded or a press fit and even a Malkoff still needs to fit well to work well. Even though it works I don’t classify aluminum foil crammed in under the heading of “fits well”. There are levels of performance that are suited to the size of a host and the way it’s put together.
God love you Dale but you just love to ignore the first and max out the second. I think if you need hand warmers you should wear gloves instead.
I've found SolarForce's seem to block output at the head more so than cheapo P60 hosts - this was also highlighted in the extensive P60 tests done -- can't find the thread anymore, but showed the loss's from blocking bezel designs. Also, as always and as you know, tailcap springs need to be copper braided.
This drop-in is being built for a friend. I only put it in the L2P as that’s what I had to try it out in. No small brass pill here, solid copper shell with silver plating. The tubular style aluminum reflector fits down inside quite snugly, should also give some mass for more heat sinking.
I’m using a Dr. Jones driver with 4 added chips, I’ve carefully set the Hi mode to the 16th level. So I don’t know why it’s so low. (comparatively speaking) I also don’t know exactly which emitter it is, I had it already on a SinkPAD and haven’t a clue when I did it or what I was using it for and why it’s not in a light already. The memory thing. I might have had it in my Raysoon F13 and changed it out for de-domed U2 1A. I just dont’ remember. It’s probably a T6, although it does have a decent tint even de-domed.
I thought it should have higher OTF lumens, which is why I started this thread…needed input on what it should be doing so I would know if I should troubleshoot. I’ll get a couple of beamshots tonight shooting the red oil drum at 97 yds, see how it acts and then decide if I want to try for more power to put it where I was expecting.
Thanks for the help! Appreciate all the feedback, even the God loves me approach! lol I don’t always do this for me ya know…occasionally I even build one not powered to the max, just because.
Try re-reading the link to Oveready on the triple led drop in. You missed a few details. There are several different options for this. Here they are:
Triple/60 H3c 1-2 cells 1600L (1200L) H-M-L Cool XPG2
Triple/60 H3n 1-2 cells 1500L (1125L) H-M-L Neutral XPG2 (4750K)
Triple/60 H3n 1-2 cells 1100L (825L) H-M-L Neutral 219 (4500K)
Make sense now? Only 1100 lumens using the 219’s. I have the H3c using Cool XPG2’s (1600L) and the H3cn using the 219’s (1100L). HUGE difference in output between the two engines. Personally, I don’t care much for the 219 version. I thought I might be impressed with the better CRI numbers on it but I’m not. To many lumens lost to make up for the better color recognition.
Geesh! I’m gonna have to start drinking coffee again!
Sorry bout that.
Overall it's closer than I thought at first, so the blocking P60 host, possibility of it being a T6, etc., are all possible causes of it getting what it's doing.
It’s funny, we get to chasing the big numbers and get addicted to it! I think it’s doing pretty doggone well right where it’s at. I’ll still get some pictures when it gets dark and see how it’s throwing, but primarily for reason of interest in this reflector, as I haven’t used this combination before.
Interestingly enough, this is right about the output I was looking for in a P-60 I built for my wife to replace the el-cheapo I had put in her P1D, that one didn’t turn out so well, with a thermal control that shuts it down too quickly.