XR-E and XP-E have similar profiles from the density/dye size - maybe that has something to do with it. But again, am I the only one that tried this?? Anyone else?
I can’t get good result from XPG2 as well. I don’t know why, but the output lumens/lux does not match the current - it’s supposed to give much higher output than what I’m getting.
One explanation would be it’s not focused properly, and it’s losing lights sideways or on the spill etc. But I’ve never really tried to find out for real.
Ohh ok, thanx - some validation. Thanks Pulsar13!
I'll have to try both emitters. I think I will prefer the xpg2 for more overall lumens.
Think I’ll try the DD approach, finally got my T-mart meter so I’ll do a tailcap reading beforehand and see what we’re starting with. Thanks everyone! 
Just remember be cautious about readings from that T-mart meter - see post# 65 for my comparison measurements showing how bad the stock leads are. Or did you replace the leads? You can jam in any old thick wire you can find to compare too (I used to use 14AWG romex house wire).
-Garry
Thanks for the reminder Garry, I had read that….then forgot it! H)
I found that if you just relocate the positive and negative stock wires to bypass the driver completely, you wind up at about 2.4a tailcap current, even using a king kong to test, if you go to 20 gauge it’ll happily pull at least 3a on a keeppower 3400 cell, not by any means the best high output cell, so my suggestion would be to go easy on any resistance mods, for one, your just sucking juice for no gain and for another, you may actually fry the emitter at some point.
like an east 092 hd2010, you do not want to derestrict the current path, the other good thing about the xre, as night crawl pointed out is the high forward voltage of the emitter protects the cell somewhat.
Any way to post a pic of the driver bypass, Gords? I’m still a newbie to mods and don’t want to let the magic smoke out.
I like the idea of on/off…this isn’t a light for subtlety.
there are photos on towards the end of agedbriars a60 thread I think, but you’ve got a meter, think of this as a chance to learn how to use it.
find the fuction that beeps when you touch the probes together, if its not got that, no problem, set it to the 200 ohm (omega sign) setting. touch the probes together, it should read zero.
touch the positive spring with one probe, find a solder point that reads zero ohm, thats where your red emitter wire goes.
repeat the process for your ground ring, that’s where your blue negative emitter wire goes (working from memory here, blue and red could be other colours, take the reflector out and confirm on the stars contact points).
Do it this way, you get to learn a bit about both your meter, your light and how the mod works, information gained is always usefull 
:bigsmile:
Thanks Gords, will do!
But first, please forgive my ignorance…how to get the pill out?! I see the little indentations on the inside…it comes out through the back? It wouldn’t turn either way.
I know I’m not very good at this… :~
The A60 doesn't have pill. The "pill" area is part of the body. You just have to work with the head of the light itself.
-Garry
So the driver doesn’t come out??
BTW Garry, you were so right about the leads…my A60 measured about .8A on high! Time to make leads for sure…
Sure the driver comes out, but the pill doesn't.
Just got in my Jacob from WallBuys - tailcap measuremnt on a laptop pull cell: 1.3A, for a Samsung 20R: 2.45A. So, the stock driver doesn't seem to regulate very well. If you use a quality low resistance cell, amps goes up pretty good.
The driver still comes out, it's just that you're pulling it out of the head (backside) since there is no "pill" to remove first. My A60 pulled 2.35A with a meter that was reading too high, so probably around 2.0A.
-Garry
Just now realized the battery tube unscrews too 8) now I’m faced with digging in there to get the press-fit driver out. Looks like I need some kind of small tool with a hook on the end of it…like a tiny knitting needle…?? What do you guys use?
And thanks for the invaluable advice, I’m obviously a modding newbie. :nerd_face:
So far, the highest readings are obtained with an AW IMR and the new IS Kinoko IMR. I guess a Samsung 20R would be quite a bit stronger?
Ice pick.
-Garry
Thanks man, now to go ice pick shopping. So it doesn’t need to be hooked on the end…??
No, just something you can get under with and then pry up carefully.
-Garry
Sam 20R's are top rated by HKJ for low resistance, so I don't know of anything better in 18650 size. I got an AW IMR 2000 mah cell and it doesn't come close to the 20Q or 20R.