I like a de-domed XML or XPG2 in them. Run with a nanjg style driver of your taste.
If driven at about 4,8A the XML gives you about 75 kCd and with XPG2 you get somewhere around 100 kCd.
A note on the XPG2: You have to grind the bottom of the reflector completely off and raise the XPG2 up and nearly into the reflector to get good focus. I had one that consistently measured 120 kCd but I sold that one to a friend and never was able to get that good numbers again.
Fortunately I can't really see the difference between 100 and 120 kCd so it is sort of a theoretical bummer :-)
looking at Link , the XML peaks at its lumens at around 4.2A~4.4A then starts to drop down the scale. for the XP-G R5, it peaks at 2.0~2.2A. maybe the XP-G2 is different?
the highest nanjg is only driving @ 2.8A. any other driver options to drive it 4.2~4.4A? or do i smell some DIY PCB ahead? :bigsmile:
really. so for the same emitter (XML old vs XML new), they’ve made upgrades? then a re-test should be done perhaps?
or is there an upgrade from XML and XML2 only?
i wonder if i can get my hands on various tints and emitters/bins etc so i can do some test and collect more data. equipments are readily available for my disposal… :bigsmile:
Umm, you were referencing XML data, while the XM-L2 is a new generation - not the same LED, not the same specs. I got XM-L2's on copper being driven at 5A, 5.5A, and 6A and the output still scales up, no drop. Copper star is the important thing, as well as the XM-L2 U2 bin.
If you got the EZ900 LED, smaller dye, better throw. Not many guys have done de-domed XP-E2's in the A60, but one guy has done a ton of them and gets 210+ kcd out of them. I got 2 stock A60's and plan on trying the new XP-E2 R4 de-domed in an A60, then I can compare head to head with my domed XP-E2 R3.
What wou unscrew from the bottom is not the pill, just the driver, this light has no pill (I think you figured out)
Mine were easy to unscrew, just my unscrewing scissors and standard torque, and my threads are pretty well finished
Yep, a nice little retaining ring. Lubed up a bit it’s very smooth.
The tailcap on the other hand… I have no idea what they did there. It would unscrew a small amount and then get stuck so I added a couple drops of gun oil and it got past the stuck part and then the compression on the spring popped it completely out. It seems like they crossthreaded the crap out of it or it was slightly too small to begin with, mismatched threads or something, because trying to rethread the switch retaining ring is next to impossible to tighten down.
The retaining ring can actually fall past the threads just by tilting it back and forth a little (as if you were trying to get it to seat properly before tightening).
Yikes - this is a low qual host for sure. Threads have always been iffy, but I've had luck working with them - did a few A60's, but you are always at risk getting a poorly assembled one with damaged threads.
Man that was a task. After fiddling with it for far too long I was able to get it to jam back into the original spot and all is well for now. I hope that switch has a long and bountiful life because that was a pita. I’ve got callouses from spinning the tweezers so much. O.o