@ImA4Wheelr Thanks, my head is filled with countless great ideas from this place so it feels great to give back a little
Now i have the qtc set up so when i twist the top part full i get a nice maybe 150-200 lumens (but the hot spot is quite wide and soft so it is less blinding than one would think) and if i press the bottom i can get instant MAX :bigsmile: or i can fine tune the level from the bottom, or get even lower by twisting the top a tiny bit less.
When i change the battery i take it out from the top gently and collect the qtc square from the bat - , because it is the twisting action that wear it out prematurely, and then replace it on the new full battery and gently thread the flashlight body over the battery so the qtc ends up on the bottom spring, before i started to do that i saw some of wear on the qtc and it got off center easily with much less control over the lumens output.
It is kind of fun it is almost like the “qtc driver” is an organic analog part of the flashlight now it is weird to think about when you are used to the driver be an rigid driver with a lot of electronic components on it, the qtc feels more alive…….harder to control but with more control to give.
I think i would be possible to have it sandwiched maybe by the bottom spring or in a copper top on the spring or maybe on top of the driver board it should be possible to enclose it so it is not twisted anymore but only pushed, if it would show to wear out or if i would find i have the need to change battery in the dark and get tired of keeping track of the tiny little qtc square.
I think i lose a tiny bit of output from max on DD to max on gtc probably under 100 lumens, but without side by side comparison or proper lumens measurement it is impossible to be certain.
@pilotdog68, o ring swell hmm that i hadn’t thought about, i wonder how long it would take for something like that to show up……. thanks for making me look out for that, that should hopefully make me take notice before it is to late.
Besides flashlights as a hobby, i like to build budget water filtration systems for me, my friends & family(you can build crazy cheap builds from Chinese imports parts just like with flashlights), and for that the best recommended lube for all those massive 10 & 20 inch o rings for the filter housings, is an approved for food production machinery grade silicon called Dow Corning Molykote 111 Silicone Compound, that i know is the last thing that would swell o rings and it is food production approved also, i wonder if flashlight silicon grease is food grade, anyway for now at least until my first o ring swell i will probably just use the not only food grade but the most delicious and an actual food raw organic coconut oil.
Thanks for the SF-348 tips, it looks very slim, but a solid pill & screw on bezel sounds like a nice possible 10440 host :-), do you know how wide the driver is and how deep the driver area is?