Try Teflon insulated wire. Much stiffer and thinner, tougher insulation. A single heavier guage wire has more strands of conductor than two smaller wires that will fit the same hole.
I have tried 20awg teflon, it was impossible to use (at least to me) it is way to stiff and doesnāt hold its shape as needed it even ripped its solder right of the pad with the pad 
At least Richards 20awg teflon wire.
The wire you already have is good enough not to fail so thicker wire will only lower resistance marginally and raise the current just a bit. The thicker insulation is not an issue as far as wire integrity but is taking up more space.
Yes i know, i am not worried in the least about pushing to much amp 
the little IMR10440 dosenāt have a chance against the 18awg wire.
But as you might pick up on i am not after good enough anymore, now i want or rather still i want to get as much light as is physically possible within the size constraint of the platform (the Jexree Mini ;)) and my ability to do so. By lowering resistance and where ever i can and improving heatsinking.
And any further improvement will be marginal because the biggest limit now is the cell. But i will still do it just for maximum lumens perfectionist fun :D.
And to be honest it is a bit addicting to get more & more & more & more as your skill grows and you get the evidence in blinding light so much fun :bigsmile: And then you get to play with it or should i say use it everyday 
I need to take things to there limit before i can step back and evaluate where the most useful setup is.
For right now i think the sweet spot is 22awg wires plus MTN12DD vesion is absolutely good enough for most, as a Jexree Mini mod that doesnāt take days to do (for me).
very impressive! i remember when we were talking about this light a few months back. looks like you went all advance on me now with the jexree at version 7 now hahah
this is one heckava show off light ill tell you thatā¦ i ended up having 18sixfifty build me a couple of these lights and everytime i turn it on for friends, every single time, i get a cuss word because theyāre so shocked.
but i agree with pilot dog, its not very practical though, if you plan on using this light, i hope you know exactly what you need to do or where to look for the lost item, because you only have about 20 seconds before the light gets scorching hot haha.
Time for a Bex and a lie down after reading about this mod. You guys certainly are good at working in miniature.
A five pack looks to be the minimum on ordering these, unless anyone else knows another place to get themā¦
They only time i have seen Jexree sell them in singles is at the aliexpress 11.11 massive sales promotion they have every year.
So if you are lucky they may do the same this year and 11.11 is fortunately quite soon 
Another option is to just ask them at aliexpress through messages if they will sell them in lower amounts, i am quite sure they will but it will probably be a little more expensive per unit than if you buy several because of shipping costs.
I always ask them to send me them without the plastic case they come in, so I & them can save a little in shipping cost & I can get a slight discount
Just for reference, when i bought 10 pieces not long ago i got a $1.5 discount by asking them to ship without cases, so it is not much but they are already cheap and the cases is useless to me anyway.
I got the Supfire A1 last week that i hoped could be an interesting option in a similar platform but with a button instead.
BUT it was total garbage :Sp
Horrible reflector and bezel that makes a horrible ringy beam on AAAās, one of the ugliest i have seen :Sp (not as ugly as the A60 but getting close) slightly better beam with the IMR10440, plastic scratched lens, wide fat bezel that leaves reflections in the beam.
AND the biggest downer of all, the part couldnāt be legoāed with the Jexree Miniās and that is why i bought it, i wanted to try out a button to see if it was workable and how much it would limit amp.
- for some reason it is a single modeā¦ā¦why when they added a button? I guess they saved in the multi mode driver & added a button insteadā¦ā¦weird.
It came with a crappy key ring i removed as soon as i could, it can be seen in the ebay listing pictures.
Here are some comparison pictures.
My version 6 black Jexree Mini mod at the top & the gaudy gold Supfire A1 at the bottom.
As you can see it is much longer.
Here you can see why it doesnāt work to lego with the Jexree Mini, every part is stretched out and to long, + the connection between the parts is different, on the Jexree Miniās head the threads is anodized & the A1 has bare threads on the head that is to long unfortunately, and it is the same at the bottom part with the button to long plus a long spring makes it impossible to use together.
Here you can see the wide bezel on the A1 & the different connection between the parts. On the A1 the bottom end of the tube the head screws in to is anodized, but it is here the Jexree Miniās head connects to the tube.
You can also clearly see how much bigger the reflector gets by having such a slim bezel on the Jexree Mini compared to the fat A1ās bezel.
And finally i will call this a mini Supfire A1 review so if somebody searches for that the indexers will find this post and hopefully, STAY AWAY AND DONāT BUY THE CRAPPY Supfire A1.
Its not the number of lights I have a problem with, it is all the XP-lās and sinkpadsā¦ lol like a certain chip, you cant have just oneā¦ If I bought five to mod one, I would end up with five moddedā¦ I will check for the 11.11 saleā¦
Thanks again for all the updates hereā¦
Hi,
I just want to say if any of you are planning to order a Jexree Mini, ask for some extra o-rings.
Why will be very clear when i describe version 8
Coming soonā¦ā¦.
Thanks for the mini review of the Supfire A1 cajampa. I have a couple of them and agree with your assessment.
Hi
Checkout my solution on how to get unlimited modes on the Jexree Mini, I know djozz where waiting for this one and anyone else like PD & blueb8llz who had problem with them getting to hot to quick.
I will repost this OP here because this very much started here with the Jexree Mini and belong here but because it applies to almost any light i did a separate thread on it also.
Hi,
If you donāt want to read a bunch of text on how to do it scroll down for videos that shows how it works
I found a way to get modes on a direct driven flashlights (and even on lights with some drivers) when i was testing out QTC as a driver on my Jexree Mini many months ago.
The QTC was limiting amp way to much & was breaking down too quick so i pretty soon scrapped that idea.
But i started to notice my light behaving like i still had a QTC in it, i was confused and opened the light to check and no i hadnāt left it in there :~
What i had noticed was that as i twisted the twisty the last fractions of a mm before it connects fully i flickered like a very very quick ramping from low to high just like with the QTC but in a shorter distance.
I started to try to control this flickering by very carefully twisting it controlled & measured that tiny little last part before fully on, and slowly i started to get a hang of it.
At first i could only get fully on or a very low moon, but the more i used it over the last months i have learnt to control it so now i can get almost any mode at will
When i started i got it like 9/10 wrong, as in i wanted low but at first i only got full on so i had to try several times before i found the right level, but the more i used it the easier it got, and now i would say if i donāt try to get as certain level but just do it by feel i almost always get it exactly right about 19/20 on the Jexree Mini version 8 that i have used the most over this time.
I say if i donāt try because it seems to me like if i try to think about it, it is much harder to do right for me now that i am good at it, than if i just ask my hand to provide me with the correct illumination my eyes want by feel, it has become like an extension of my hand and fingers, my hands fingers presses and twists the light so i get the light i want, but if try to do it by focusing too hard on it i often overshoot and i have to fiddle much more with it before i get the right mode/level.
OK
So how to do it, i have recorded some videos to show some of what can be done.
The videos is mostly of the various āpressā modes because when i hold the light up high at chest level, so i can try to show how on the video(taken by crappy phone camera) the ātwistyā modes and ātwisty + pressā ways of controlling the driverless modes, dosenāt work as well as when the arm is straight with the light firmly controlled by the thumb and index finger. Or at least i am not as used to do it at that angle.
The video is pretty crappy quality because i used a handheld mobile camera and i used lights on in the room so could see my hand and hopefully pick up on some of the moves that is possible, the actual moves is almost unnoticeable in normal use but i try to exaggerate some of them to make it clearer. The camera of course hate being subjected to this extreme changing light condition so it struggles pretty bad at picking up tints for example but, just know that the tint dosenāt shift noticeable in person.
Please understand that holding a camera and trying to actively show different levels & modes make it much harder to do and when you do it as needed without thinking about it it just works great
Here is my favorite the Jexree Mini, this is version 8 with a smooth modded copper beryllium spring that makes the modes much easier to control + more output than the tiny little stiffer stock spring. I will detail the version 8 soon in my Jexree Mini mod thread.
Here is one more of the Jexree Mini mod V8 but with less room light.
This is of the stock Jexree Mini, i havenāt even lubed the threads, just dropped in a Eneloop So it still has the stock boost driver.
This is of the Super Light that modded to be direct draw with a XP-L V6 3D. I have only used this with driverless modes for a few minutes so i am much worse with this light. Every type of light have there own quirks and moves that needs to be figured out to control them at will successfully.
This is of my Eagle Eye X6 triple without a driver and just a bare contact board.
I have just started using this and because it is a big heavy clicky and my other hand is occupied by the phone i have tu use it as a twisty by the tailcap rather uncomfortably but i worked to show what is possible anyway. I have used this several times while night running and i could control level quite well while running at speed so it does work, i am just not so used to it yet. and the bonus of not having any driver limiting output is it is of course even more powerful and useful when you need max turbo output from it :bigsmile:
This is of the modded Olight i3S, that i used just a bare contact board and 22awg wires + of course the XP-L V6 3D I have only used this light for a week, so it is still much hit and miss in regards to smooth driverless modes controlling.
I will probably do a mod thread on it later.
What can be done besides any level and ramping and getting pretty much what ever output level your eyes desire, is an interesting candle light flicker mode that i really like. It looks very much like you are holding a very directional and crazy powerful candle light in its beam, but it is a bit tricky to engage and works up to about half the power of the light, it works by pressing the thumb and index finger in a slight twisting motion almost against each other so the forces of the fingers collide and the muscles in the fingers starts to vibrate faintly. It looks really nice and so organic because there in nothing digital about it YOU are the flicker and the vibration your eyes can see all around you :bigsmile:
Another is of course a momentary action to pretty much any level and from any level very easy.
And a sort of slow back ramping mode that goes up after a certain press and slowly goes back to off not always so easy to get but when you find it it works great.
I like to set up my Jexree Mini so it is like in a trigger mode, just a bit before engage and with the much smoother new spring you can customize the pressure you want on the twist action by the tailcap. I will explain more when i detail the Version 8 mod.
So when it is like in trigger mode i know where i can reach all the levels without twisting and by only a slight press and twists not around but by twisting the head front and back from the tube to engage various level of resistance in the connection.
In trigger mode it is easy to smoothly ramp instantly to any level while holding it, but if you want to get a level without having to hold the light and firmly manipulating the head, you can press harder quick at certain directions and let go to get a set mode that holds without requiring and controlling of the head, so you can use both hands to hold something for example while directing the light between your fingers.
To set up trigger mode i hold it a set way like for example, how it comes out from my pocket with the clip down with the clip resting on the middle & ring finger and twist until i almost engage connection and test out so i can reach all levels without straining and having to press to hard. and then i just set it back in my pocket and every time i get it out all the levels & modes is right there without having to think about it
Every time you change the battery or set it up with a fixed mode by twist it there, if you want it back at trigger mode all you have to do is to reset it to where you want and it is right there again.
You should also make sure the threads are lubed so the a nice and smooth, i only use raw organic coconut oil as thread lube but any should work, as you saw in the stock Jexree mini video it is possible to do it unlubed but trickier and you have to press harder to do it.
I realize this might not be so easy to follow and pick up but, the thing is i need to program your firmware that is your mind with was kind of movements and possibilities there is by learning to controlling a twisty like this. Much unlike the programming of an attiny13a to control the driver here YOU are the driver :bigsmile: And the feedback loop from your eyes to your hand is the most dynamic way to control so small movements exactly.
I think anyone can do it, i showed my brother how to do it and he picked it up very quickly And i hope by me showing what can be done you can also quicker pick up what is possible.
I did this for months before i realized i had no way to describe in words what i actually did because it wasnāt words it was pure movements, and it has taken me months to try to find words that somewhat describes what my hand and mind and eyes are doing to control my lights like this, i hope it helps someone to do the same much quicker that it took me to figure out and describe.
The Jexree Mini version 8 or how to fit a copper beryllium spring in many AAA/10440 lights.
As you might have figured out by now i really like to optimize things, to find something good and tune it and tune it more and more. I have projects decades old :bigsmile: that can still get a bit better
Before i said i get my best ideas in my sleep or from the flow state, another way i get great ideas is in the beginning of working out hard, the first 5-10min before you are really warmed up and the initial shock to the system and surge of adrenaline when you are pushing yourself a little bit harder than ever before :bigsmile:
Sometimes i wonder if my body is trying to trick me in to doing something less strenuous by often giving me great ideas then
That was what happen with this mod i had just started working out and in the middle of the first set i realized exactly how to do it :party:, very nice and annoying because i had to do it right then before i forgot because that has happened if i wait until after the workout before.
And this is what I came up with.
Here is the copper beryllium spring and the Jexree Mini.
A stock copper beryllium spring 6.20mm and that is way to tall to fit, i need to about half that, fortunately the material i quite soft and week, so what is bad on 18650 drivers & switches that they easily collapses, is great for us here
First i ripped out the little short stock spring
The spring on the picture is the copper beryllium one.
Then i used a small vise to press the copper beryllium spring hard together, that gets it to around 3.5-4mm. not enough but good enough so we can work around it.
Try not to scratch the soft spring when you do this, if you have a very teethy vise you should probably use something smoother against the spring, to not rough up the soft copper to much.
Here is the little stock spring, a stock copper beryllium and a modified shorter one among some of the nice colored Jexree Minis there is.
Here it is when it is made shorter
One the problem with the IOS copper beryllium spring is it is to tall to fit even after i modified it by making it shorter, so to get the tail to fit and close again flush to the body, i used an extra o ring that I pressed up higher above the normal o ring on the little ledge.
If you check the top picture with the colored ones, you can compere with & with double o rings. Sorry i picked a black one to show they o rings on they are kind of hard to see.
It is tricky to get them to sit this far back they really want to slide down towards the threads there, but the easiest way is to get the up there before you screw on the tailcap and then carefully with your nails without pressing on the o rings screw the tailcap on.
when it is on the top o ring should sit in the grove between the tail and body and visually been seen in the grove.
You can close the tailcap completely but then the light wonāt start.
And the result of the copper spring is course even MORE output :bigsmile: unfortunately, just like the version 7 I used the version 6 to make the version 8 so i canāt compere them side by side but as usual the initial blast i ridiculous at max, but if you read my previous post you know that is not all this little Jexree Mini is :bigsmile:
The very nice feature of the copper spring is it makes the driverless modes much smoother and dependable, partly because the tailcap has some adjusting in it now with the tiny bit to long spring, with the added o ring to get back water proofing in the tail and i am not sure but i suspect the extra o ring makes the whole tail.
You can set it almost flush and then it gets very stiff (the head that it is as you are controlling the levels) or you can set it as i like it a little bit less than that and get it exactly to where it is easiest to get control and it dosenāt overshot, that was much easier to do with the much thinner and stiffer stock spring.
Just try it, it is a great and easy upgrade for any Jexree Mini here are the link to IOS copper beryllium spring.
I donāt know where to get these o rings besides Jexree, i asked for some extra when i bought some lights from them a while ago. The size is 13mmx1mm.
You can fit these springs in the Olight i3S also but they fit better there without making them shorter.
Nice evolution of Jexree mods!
As for using thick and stiff wires, I soldered them through holes in my Ultrafire LZZ-06 mods, then they do not have to bend anymore after soldering, stiffness is no problem, you can even use solid copper for led wires if you like. and the contact board is fixed in place as a bonus.
Thanks
I did consider early on to drill through it like you in the original LZZ-06 mod.
But i am not sure i trust solder to not weaken (i have had that happen before) with all the twisting and pressing + running it hot i do when i use it with driverless modes.
And it seems like solder leave gunk on the cells tops and because these little powerful lights need a cell swap quite often (a couple of times a week for me), i donāt want to get toxic lead residue on my fingers and have to think about washing that off.
A bigger 18650 cell you can easily handle and place in the charger, but the small 10440ās i find i have to press on the cell top to get it correctly centered in the Xtar MC0.
But it may be possible to use solid copper and maybe hammer it in place to not have to use solder to fix it. But i donāt know if a solid wire would be less resistance than fitting a silicon wire than i can make oval to fit like in version 6.
Another way i think it is possible to get a bit more amp (I know your post where about using stiff wires, but my aim to use a stiff wire where to get a thicker wire with lower resistance, and so far using a even thicker but more malleable wire seem to be a better solution) is by a bare max amp connector board with lots of vias for minimum resistance, like PD just did with the max amp switch board. Oshpark Projects post #1607
If you try out driverless modes on you LZZ-06 mod, please let me know how the connections hold up and if i am right on my concerns that it smudges of on the cell top.
Checking the OPās link to the Jexree shop on Aliexpress, it looks to be out of stockā¦ Well that stinksā¦
Yeah you are right.
I sent a message to them asking what up. I hope they havenāt stopped selling them foreverā¦ā¦
It seems the Ultrafire LZZ-06 version is almost gone also
EDIT
Did this happen? Wondering ā¦.
I donāt remember seeing a thread about it from Billy X.
But I did buy a silicon mat but when i got it i had already realized that QTC limit max amp way to much, and i had started working on my driverless modes skills, and when you perfect the driverless modes handling there is no need to bother with QTC.