jmpaul320's skyray king upgrade thread UPDATED 1/12/13

If you mean for the SRK having 2A constant current, not sure, because it's not using amp regulation (7135's), but the resistor method. The TrustFire 168A is now running a Nanjg driver @3.8A, copper added, driver potted, 22 gauge silver tinned teflon wires. I'm getting 870 lumens now - big difference from 525 originally.

Very weird with the SRK not to see any measured difference. Lots of factors effect lumens readings I'm finding out -- from cold/warm state, batteries brand/type and charge level, etc. Even if you think everything is the same, it seems like I still get unexplainable differences sometimes.

I measured current with stock LEDs, but not with new LEDs… Maybe later I should measure current.

I measured lumens with the ceiling bounce method, with all batteries at 4.20V, with everything in the same position and comparing it with other flashlights as reference...

Something interesting, I didn't consider the LED's PCB height, only the diameter... but fortunately, both stock and new stars were identical, If for some reason I mix all six LEDs, I should test them and see the tint difference to know which ones were new from olds :)

I have to measure current...

I think ceiling bounce testing is ok for the SRK, but from what I've seen, the throwers don't score as high as they should. I got a light-box, PVC pipe based, a couple of guys are using them here, and seems to be more consistent. It sounds like your batteries were setup correctly. T6 1A to U3 1C should be measurable, even though the tint is more neutral. I too like the 1C tint. I've done a lot of U3 1C upgrades, unfortunately it was always with driver upgrades and thermal mgt changes as well. That's why I did this last light, the 168A, in 2 steps.

Got pics of that PVC light tube? I’m considering a build using 2ft beach ball+papier mache. Now that you mention it, PVC pipe would make a much smaller and nicer footprint than a giant ball :slight_smile: .

Actually it's identical to rdrfronty's because he made it! We exchanged services basically. Hhhmmm, think he posted pics somewhere here. I think I saw someone else's pics too, maybe be based his on. I don't have pics handy right now, but it weighs quite a bit, big PVC elbows, and glass is built in couple of inches into each end. We use dark gray foam with cut outs in different sizes for different lights.

UPDATE 1/31/13 THE RESISTORS ARE HERE! (and i ordered some teflon wire which should be here next week)

now I have to go on youtube or something and figure out how to solder better… these resistors are smaller than I had initially thought. I know how to solder, but not neatly by any means.

does any one have any tips?

practice first on some unimportant board or something or order this :smiley:

hmmm perhaps i will get my dad to help me with this one, he has more of an electronics background than i do… and i have to wait for the teflon wires to arrive that i just ordered…

maybe by then i will have 3x xml2 t6 also :slight_smile:

Subscribing to this thread. I’m really interested to see how much of a difference the XM-L2’s will make.

Hello guys… how can I upgrade this driver? It is from fake SRK 6x XML2 T6.

here photo of driver

Interesting how different yours is to mine.
For modding I ordered a DIY set from here.
The owner is user RMM on this forum, there is a thread for his store and he can be reached via PM as well.

Oh and welcome!

I was thinking just about resistor mod… I do not know whick resistor to change. which wires to choose?