you may try one of my Buck drivers they can go up to 8A
2S—6V
3S—6V a bit reduced current due to more heat
and 4S—12V possiblöe
Your drivers are amazing. I considered mtn’s and yours, but didn’t want to spend that much initially since I wasn’t sure it would even work with my project. I will eventually upgrade the Chinese one once I get everything to work in my mod. My build is complicated since my host is plastic and I’m pretty much scratch building everything to fit around a cut-down Intel PC heatsink, led specific heatsink, 2, 26650s, Omten switch and all the internal connections.
you got also to consider that a Buck driver needs cooling, I can calculate on mine the losses
8A produces a lot heat like 4-5A is no problem with at least some heat path away like potting
while the Chineese tuned will likely get very hot
You are right about the heat. I expected that it would need cooling. While running it on high, the inductor gets too hot to hold my finger on it after like 7 seconds!
Lol i bought the mantra ray boost driver the 6v 5 amp driver its legit i also bought the 14 7135 the 5amp 22mm driver from them to try. The boost driver ive been using regulary its good but mode select is average.
I am sure the person who makes them is the cn/ cnc guy i think one of his shops was called that. He used to be a regular on here then went MIA. Who ever it is they have skills because the boards are designed from scratch by them.
Ill try and the person i am talking about. I don’t think hes logged in ages.
if the inductor gets too hot to touch within 7 seconds something is wrong on this driver
[qute=everydaysurvivalgear]Lol i bought the mantra ray boost driver the 6v 5 amp driver its legit i also bought the 14 7135 the 5amp 22mm driver from them to try. The boost driver ive been using regulary its good but mode select is average. I am sure the person who makes them is the cn/ cnc guy i think one of his shops was called that. He used to be a regular on here then went MIA. Who ever it is they have skills because the boards are designed from scratch by them. Ill try and the person i am talking about. I don't think hes logged in ages. [/quote]
Interesting. I got it off Aliexpress a while ago. I stick in some screen shots of who I got it from. It was one amongst many, but I chose it because it had the non-toridal inductor. Is it the same one? Maybe this seller is selling knock-offs of their design? Outside the expensive drivers there aren't many like this one that have the specified output and the flat top inductor...
I wouldn’t drive while junk , it’s against the law & very dangerous. 
What do you think is the issue?
I always pay attention to the current sense resistor stack value on buck or boost drivers, by Ohm's law the sense voltage is easily obtained. I prefer to stay away from drivers with high sense voltage values, makes them less efficient and less overcurrent capable.
By the way, generally a buck driver designed for 2S emitters should also work good for 1S ones. 
?
:-)
this is not true 2S Buck driver with variable switching frequency for low dropout do switch faster when In- and Output voltage difference gets higher
too high swichting frequency adds a lot losses on the MOSFET
Maybe you overshot my previous question a bit Lexel. I think one of those drivers meant for XHP70s with up to 3S cells input voltage should work nicely with 2S cells driving an 1S emitter.
So I tried doing the current measuring again. I soldered the driver output to the short leads from the LED and ran it off a 3S li-ion battery. I saw 3.5A for about 4 seconds on 100% until the driver dimmed the light and it started fashing. I’m not sure if it’s overheating or the battery is too low? The battery is 10.95 volts so it doesn’t make sense. It can’t be drawing the battery down that much.
What actually matters to the driver is the amount of voltage which reachs its input, Sirstinky. The driver will try to draw well above 3A or even more from the cells in order to serve 33+W at the emitter. How are the cells connected to the driver? If you are using alligator clips that for sure causes a lot of contact resistance at the input. Photos?
Yes you’re right on the money. I’m using alligator clips to connect the battery to the driver. I figured that wasn’t the best way from what everyone’s saying. I will try another way. I will send photos when I very home from work. I’m learning more about these drivers all the time! It seems they are quite different than the CC/CV drivers I’m used to!
You mentioned the current sense resistor? If I put up a picture of the driver, could you point it out?
Thanks again.
Sirstinky sense resistors usually start with an R letter (is a decimal separator) or its figures are underlined (acts as a milli prefix). They are in series with the load, usually at the low side.
He are pictures of the driver. I tried to hey pictures of the resistors on the PCB. Which one is the sense resistor? How do you use it to measure the current? When I test the driver again with a full battery I'll take a picture of it.
Thanks
Here is the first post photo you posted above. I can see an R120 leaning out under the inductor, next to the red wire which connects to the emitter. The driver may be using high side sensing, check this by testing continuity between the positive lead and one of the R120's leads.
If the driver is what it claims to be current wise I am pretty sure there are more sense resistors in parallel with that one, at least 3x more. This is because they're likely to be ¼W rated resistors and at 5A the dissipated power at each one would be P = I²R = (5 / 4)² × 0.12 = 0.1875W.
In order to determine how much current does the driver handles you need to find a way to check the voltage drop across that leaning out R120 (this will be a very low voltage value, less than 150mV as I see), and also check what is the sense resistor stack combined value. You may need to remove the inductor to see what is going on under it. Use Ohm's Law plus common sense.