if you want to use Carclo lenses, I think you need the triple board that mountain sells… the one from Kaidomain is different (ledl?)
also the sw45 kaidomain sells is not sw45K, it is just sw45, and it is not a 9080, it is 9050… and D240 (less pink). Imo you can do better by buying sw45k from azhu… unless youre intentionally trying to buy a non pink sw45
read post #5 for more details
that is not the droid Im looking for… 
Hehe, your order arrival beat me by one day. I just received mine yesterday. :-) Kaidomain must have shipped ours out at the same time. :-) Well, I gotta get some beam shots of my current Nichia 219C 4000K and compare it to the new Nichia 219BT 4500K but not until I remove the XPL HI from the Lumintop EDC18 first.
Actually the Carclo lens fits fine on the Kaidomain MCPCB, see below. Carclo 10511 on the left, Kaidomain on the right.
I’m hoping the Kaidomain 4500K LEDs are sw45 vs sw45K. I already have the azhu sw45K LEDs which are awesome (and all the other CCTs that azhu offers), but I’ve always wanted the non-K version for my collection.
I actually like the KD optic a lot. The mcpcb is probably gold plated. Eagerly waiting to here back about tint.
geat info on the lenses and mcpcb compatibility, thanks
and congrats on your non-K option… choices are good 
enjoy!
I remember that Kaidomain’s triples were to thin (or holes were to wide?) to make proper contact with the shelf/pill. It can be easily verified: put carclo upsidedown, then Kaidomain’s triple, and check if optic’s legs are protruding. If not, you’re good to go.
The legs are thicker, so if you don’t user the KD mcpcb then you will have to drill them out to fit
The Kaidomain optic is a little taller than the Carclo. All 3 of the Kaidomain legs protrude thru the MCPCB whereas with the Carclo, only 1 slightly does.
Left is Carclo, right is Kaidomain:
I find that the Nichia 219BT (4500K) has quite a pronounced hot spot. It’s almost like a thrower kinda beam. Whereas my previous XPL Hi (5000K) hotspot covered a larger area, the Nichia hotspot was smaller in size.
So now the Nichia lumen strength is just a bit less than the XPL HI, Nichia hotpot is more concentrated and smaller and the tint is slightly warmer than the XPL HI. Therefore, I retain the beam distance, achieve a slightly warmer tint and the lumens are slightly less. 
Oh, if I slap on the Carlo 10511, then the beam’s gonna be more floody right? I have one sitting in my parts bin for who knows how long now. Plus it’s never been used yet too. 
The Kaidomain 219B sw45 D240 R9050 seems legit. It’s certainly not the rosy sw45k version. The tint appears very close to the BBL, maybe a little above. I don’t notice any green, but there is no rosiness at all.
If you want a non-rosy high CRI 4500K LED, this is a good option. Then again, there aren’t too many 4500K LEDs to choose from. I’m glad that I’ve added it to my collection.
Here it is next to the 219B sw45k D200 R9080 4500K LED (middle) and E17A SM453-B12-R9080 4500K LED (right):
And here it is next to the 219C 5000K 80+ CRI LED (right):
> The tint appears very close to the BBL
glad youre enjoying different options
fwiw, the Opple Light Master can measure XY coordinates, from which an online calculator can report and plot Tint DUV…
for example stock Olight Ti S Mini NW XM-L2:
and sw35, sw45, and sw45k:
.
Ya’ll, the more i use this sw45, non k variation. The more its becoming my goto. Pretty good inside, and pretty good out back.