Not sure how you all managed to put the brass nubbin between the steel button and the silicone boot. The little steel nubbin on the steel button has an OD of 3.5 mm and the brass nubbin has an ID of 3 mm. Or something has changed from early to later models.
Anyway, I tried the spacer ring between tailcap and steel button as described by someone else in this forum for the FW3A. My first try with 0.4 mm thickness was already good enough. Less wobbly, but also slightly easier to activate. Also the button does not scratch against the tailcap anymore. Iāll keep it like this for a while.
Please help - completely off topic and I apologize but can anyone help me with what optic the KR4 comes with stock? 10621 / ā22 / ā23? I am pretty sure I know its not the ā23. i ordered a ā21 from Mtn electronics because i thought the KR4 came with a ā22, but the ā21 kind of looks like whats in my light now? I donāt want to bother Hank with these basic questionsā¦ againā¦
Thank you for the info! I will have to put in the 10621 I got from Mtn and see if there is a difference from what is stock in my KR4. They visually look very similar. Hopefully I didnāt get a 10622 sent to meā¦ I wish there was some marking on the optic to distinguish them. Iām new to this, there probably is some way to tell the difference
Youāre welcome! The 10621 and 10622 are similar looking. However, the 10621 has slightly recessed circles (lenses?) directly over the emitters, whereas the 10622 is smooth across the top. See here (not my photo): 10621. I hope that helps.
I just popped it in the KR4 (sst-20 5000k) andā¦ Wow, its awesome! I recently bought that 10621 along with the 10623, 10507 and 10509 to switch my optics up. I was saving the 10621 for my ācustomā (from Hank) d4v2 brass with W2ās (my first d4v2 :D) that is in route to me now, due this week, thinking I would put the 10623 in my KR4 and have a āthrowerā and a āfloodā edc, respectively. But now Iām scratching that and putting together a Mtn electronics order to get another 10621 for the KR4. It almost looks like it gave me 50% more throw. I know its not that much, but it is definitely noticeable over the 10622, much more then I expected! Almost looks like it throws as far as my EC03 (I just got that one in this week too, another great little torch!). No wonder why this hobby is so damn addictiveā¦ :innocent: Thanks for the help again.
Youāre welcome! Iām glad you like the results. I have 10621ās and 10507ās in most of my quads and triples. Itās made a huge difference in enjoyment of use for me.
Received the soft blue camo today with Fedex but without having asked it ; took 3 days . I have a better feeling with this switch than from my other ti . So now i have e21aās in 5000,4500 and 5000/3500 .
Funny . I didnāt beleive it too when fedex rang my door ; i had received hank shipping email today, but didnāt bother to check . Canāt satisfy you today : no phone and my camera is in one of my boxes from my moving .
I want to almost completely because i am so curious after reading everything n here from people that know so much about color ātemperatureā (I donāt know if thats even the right term). but yea, a 2000k mule sounds awesome.
That doesnāt sound right. E21A (except possibly mules) should be limited to 5A current, XP-L HI should consume more than 10A with a decent battery.
Is either one of your E21A flashlights a mule?
Did you calibrate the temperature sensor on all flashlights?
Is the temperature limit set to the same value on all flashlights?