Just got my KR1, but just isn’t able to turn it on. I’ve tightened both head and tail of the light as much as I could and cleaned the sleeve from burrs using paper. It seems to be doing the factory reset just like this:
Using Samsung 30Q flat top. Help!
If it’s doing the factory reset, I’d say the inner tube is making at least some contact.
Did you also clean the contact surfaces (ends of tubes)? Generally, I clean them with alcohol on a cotton swab, but the contact surfaces of one of my KR4 tubes had to be very lightly sanded to fix a connection problem.
Also, on the KR’s I think it’s best to carefully tighten the head first. Once you get it working reliably, leave the head alone for battery changes.
Finally ordered a K1 with W2 from Illumn. I’ve been trying to decide between W2 and SBT and going for the W2.
That means the outer tube isn’t making contact. It might help to make sure there is nothing blocking either end of the outer tube, like stray bits of anodizing which might not have been removed, or anything else stuck on the ends of the tube or the outer contact surfaces in the head or the tail. Also, try to make sure the big spring in the head isn’t getting in the way.
Then make sure to tighten the tube to the head before tightening the tail. It shouldn’t need to be super tight.
Also, totally off topic, but… It’s not often I see “Posts: 1” on an account 6 years old. How did that happen? Often times, people will respond with a “welcome to BLF” message when someone makes their first post, but I’m not sure that works when so much time passed between creating an account and writing a first comment.
Welcome to BLF skinny01010!!!
Now we just need RacoonCity to post his traditional Milla welcome pic.
Trakcon - have tried cleaning with your method, also sanded the inner black tube per Hank’s suggestion. Still no luck unfortunately.
ToyKeeper
- as far as I can tell, the contact surfaces on both head and tail caps look fine, nothing seems out of place with anything obstructing contact. Was inserting battery from head earlier, have now moved to inserting from tail.
Am currently in contact with Hank to sort it out. Thanks guys
I am interested in a kr4 e21a. I want to make sure I don’t compromise the emitters. Since it is regulated to 5amps, if I use a vtc6 the consequence will be quicker ramp down due to heat? No risk to the emitters?
Well, the emitters no matter what cell you use pull the same current, so why would it step down quicker due to more heat? It is not direct drive.
The FET might heat up a bit more than with some other cells because it might keep it’s voltage on load higher than others, but probably slipping hairs and probably does not matter at only 5A max current.
So you can’t affect the emitters with your VTC6 as long as it is not direct drive.
I can’t help but wonder if the KR4/1 is proving too troublesome for Hank. On reddit I see almost daily threads from first-time buyers who cannot make it work or who are experiencing strange behaviour.
Usually the solution is simple - clean the surfaces and tighten the tail - but it still takes time for Hank to reply to these issues and talk people through the procedure. In addition to the time lost, it is surely not good for Emisar’s reputation to have so many reports of issues.
Perhaps I am misreading the scale of the issues.
Not that many, usually when I tell the customers, “please try to tighten the tailcap”, then issue solved. You do not even need to clean or check anything.
The issue has nothing to do with the structure actually, it is because we have used a slightly thicker o-ring which is holding the clip, so the user needs a bit more force to squeeze the o-ring, so that the taicap and tube can have firm contact. We quickily realized that, and are using a slightly thinner o-ring, now you only need normal force to tighten the tailcap, I believe you will hear less and less such issue.
That is good news.
I just received a KR4 ti and am finding the tail clickie a bit rough to use. I am assuming it’s the nature of titanium. And suggestions to improve this gratefully received.
I get where you’re coming from.
For my case, I’ve tried the solutions people suggested earlier and went through all the troubleshooting possible with him. Still have got zero idea what’s wrong.
Then again, it’s not my first light from him so I felt pretty comfortable buying another.
If there was a r/bicycles, I won’t be surprised to see daily messages of people reporting that they fell off the bike the first day they learned to use it. Would you conclude that bicycles are a failed design ? 
There is a learning curve with about anything, It’s a pity that so much people are unable to use a search engine to learn very basic points.
The short version is that those reports tell more about people than about Emisar flashlights that are known since long to be flashlights for enthusiasts. Those reports “only” tell that Emisar flashlights reached a broader public which is nice.
I did not say it was a failed design, I questioned if the volume of complaints from first-time buyers (not experienced with flashlights) was proving problematic from an aftersales point of view, and from a PR point of view.
It costs time and thus money to reply to emails, no matter if the solution is simple. There is also the case that someone browsing reddit may conclude that it is an unreliable design and/or brand.
I was wondering if he had any regrets about the tail e-switch concept. He replied that he did not, so end of discussion.
Thanks for clearing that up. I am still ignorant as to what types of drivers do what.
I have one kr4 and love it.
Every once in a while,like if i drop it on wood floor or fumble it badly it will go in that reset mode.
I loosen both ends,then tighten the crap out of the tail end first.
Then firmly tighten the head.
If that doesn’t work repeat that till it does.
Is the deep carry clip still in development? I would love to get a Ti KR4 but the current clip isn’t the best for carrying.
I already emailed Hank about BOTH of my KR4s, they are awesome! The 2200 and the deep red tints are fantastic, perfect beams. This guy sets the bar high for timely communications and faster shipping than should be possible.
Thanks again, Hank!
Nice to see more people getting flashlights with SST-20-DR deep red 660 nm LEDs. I had wanted to get a deep red flashlight for a long time, but there was no deep red flashlight with Anduril available anywhere. Perhaps SST-20-DR could be added as an option on the website. A significant number of people signed up for Sofirn C01R group buy, there might also be demand for more powerful deep red flashlights.