Those two have been and still remain my longest running suppliers and have both improved shipping times though still not the fastest. I rely on them for things I can find nowhere else and Kai’s driver selection is second to none and still improving. The best thing they could do as far as BLF sales would be to shift from pic to Attiny or support a thread on how to do such a mod. Although there are more no strobe options they still dominate with no way to cross over to all the new Attiny ui’s.
Since nearly or all of the microcontroller's software is done nowadays in high level language, I do really wonder why don't you port the code yourselves for whatever brand of chips. It's not that these architectures are some sort of military secret, heck they're rather simple and well documented, don't they? This also expands your knowledge and horizons, and is much better than complaining, imho.
Oh! Except maybe for the mode spacing, I see little to complain with the H1-A as it is.
Cheers 
We each have our skills and inclinations as to where to expand them. Please don’t critique my choices and I won’t denigrate yours. I value what they offer and merely suggest how they could improve their offerings but I reserve the right to complain(if that’s how you choose to view my suggestion) whenever and however I choose. 
I also reserve my right to criticize whatever I believe deserves to be so while not denigrating. Criticizing does not necessarily imply denigration, can be constructive and helpful, though the latter “negative” meaning seems predominant, Rufusbduck. 
Any worthwhile information source for these microcontrollers? Emulators?
Thanks.
Cheers 
Calling the suggestion a complaint attaches that negative connotation which in this case I believe undeserved, maybe you simply didn’t realize that was the case. I merely noted that many of their drivers seem to use pic controllers and that sales could be improved if otherwise or if it was demonstrated how to slave the power sections to a different controller board(something I and a few others have tried to do). I don’t code anything, neither having the time nor the inclination to go down that road with the investment entailed. My mods are purely physical/mechanical and that’s where I’ve both concentrated and expanded my skills. I’ve often wondered why there is so little popularity for pic based drivers or reflashing of them, maybe you could lead the way seeing as how it’s so easy for you, it would be a great boon to the forum. I haven’t seen any threads on this, just a very few specific application drivers(mostly for multicolor LEDs). If you’re interested, try This thread by tterev apparently Toykeeper has some firmware for it stashed in her repository. I think one or two others as well but I can’t find or remember them. Also tterev3’s quick start guide I look forward to what you come up with, there are many drivers that use it and this can only increase our understanding of them.
I don’t care for the off topic back and forth. Maybe PM each other to explain yourselves? IDK.
About the H1-A, user Khas put one in an Eagle Eye X7 host with a xhp50.2.
In my opinion, on time memory is worse that just coming on in high every time. I really didn’t want to hear that. I may forgo that driver and run a pair of 26350.
Rufusbduck, of course I can understand your perspective. We can be our worst enemies imagining stuff which most likely is far from the truth. Remembers me of that day (during a nasty hangover) I was moaning in horror because my brand new lightbulb/lamp stopped working… of course later I realized it was unplugged LoL!
Thanks for the links, but heck, don't expect miracles. Years ago I did some coding, including a very simple Pac-Man clone in GW-BASIC and an alignment wise complete R3000 memory copy routine in assembler.
However, I do know nothing (yet) with regards to the peculiarities of these microcontrollers and, at this moment, I have to deal with income issues. 
JasonWW, 5.2A from a fully charged battery, right? Since these are high IR batteries, that probably means barely 20W of input to the driver, which means high efficiency.
Testing a low state of charge battery is something I'd find more helpful, to check the low input voltage driver efficiency and cutoff, and the peak amp values.
Cheers ^:)
I also like off time memory better and most of my flashlights use off time memory.
It’s a bit annoying you have to push the button twice to change modes when the flashlight is on, but at least it’s not the dreaded next mode memory.
A very nice mod for a F13 is the H2-C driver and a XHP35 HI, I think it has a very good and usable beam profile, and you can run it on either one 26650 or two 26350 batteries.
EDIT :
Made a small experiment just to be sure : both the H1-A and the H2-C have on time memory. When you turn on the flashlight and leave it the same mode for more than approximately 3 seconds you can turn it off and the next time you turn it on it starts in the same mode again, less than 3 seconds it starts in the next mode.
Sucks but as there is no real options unless you want 2 or more 26350s.
The purple 26350 that banggood sales does seem to be a good battery. They are rated at 2000 mah, but measure closer to 2500 mah. (EDIT: 2200 to 2300 is more accurate)
Khas, if it’s pulling 5.2 amp at the battery, doesn’t that mean less than half that at the emitter? Like 2 to 2.5 amp?
I just measured the H1-A in the X7 : 2,64 A to the emitter with a clamp meter and a 20awg wire loop.
khas, are your emitter and battery amp measurements concurrent? Hope they're not…
What emitter? In a “hot” condition, doesn't it?
I'll make some numbers:
5.2A from a fully charged high IR battery, this and other losses in the torch let's say at most 3.7V of input into the driver. In my opinion, it is more reliable to take measurements from already a bit discharged cells, since they seem to drop more voltage in the very first part of the discharge curve.
2.64A to a 2S hot emitter, maybe an XHP50 so let's say 6.2V of drop over the emitter's terminals.
Rough efficiency figure: η = Pout / Pin = 6.2V × 2.64A / 3.7V × 5.2A = 0.850727650728 (85.07%)
Not very impressive at first glance, albeit this is full of presumptions.
Oh! Now that I see this, I believe these single cell high output drivers (high input current) would benefit from a lower cutoff voltage (less than 3V).
Cheers ^:)
Sold out atm… but also silly shipping time to sweden.
INR 26350 3.7V 2000mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Battery (2-Pack) @ FastTech
Use coupon BLF if buying less than the minimum bulk amount. ;-)
Cheers ^:)
With 2.6 amp at the emitter that’s about 2200 lumen at most, so OTF is a bit less.
I’m sure it’s still plenty bright, but it makes me lean towards the dual 26350 direction for my build. I’d like to get 3k or 4k output even if I have to carry a spare set of batteries with me.
Did you measure the amp loads on that 12volt boost driver? If it can really do 1.5 amp that’s pretty good for a small thrower.
The amp range on the website has me worried though. It says 1A to 1.5A. That’s a big range on a 12v emitter.
1,41 A @ the emitter with the H2-C.
Good to know.
So what’s your take on these new boost drivers? Are they worth using even though the UI is not that great?
On one hand there is not much choice for 12 volt use, but is the xhp35 that much better than the new xhp50.2?
As far as the 6 volt goes, using it in an 18650 light seems smart as the 18350 batteries are not very good. Assuming your 18650 light can fit a 20mm driver.
In a 26650 light though, like I’m gonna build, you could go either way as the 26350 batteries are pretty good.
Idk, I’m one fence as to which way to go.
Well I like the F13with the H2-C driver and the XHP35 HI, I only put a XHP50.2 in the X7 because I couldn’t get a 20mm 12v boost driver.
I like the beam profile with the XHP35 better and there is not tint shift like there is with the XHP50.2.
As for batteries I’d take a good 26650 over two 26350 anyday I have six of the 26350 but I don’t use them much I prefer a single Keeppower 26650 instead.
From when I first made the F13 with the FX35 driver :
No shipping options.
Khas, how is your battery life and heat output on the X7 build with the xhp50.2?
That emitter with a linear driver gets really hot with fresh batteries and drains them really quick in my Convoy L6 compared to the xhp70.
I’m gonna order that H1-A just to try it since I’m putting my xhp70 back in the L6 and I’ll have the 50.2 plus a spare 26650 laying around. That’s the cheap option.
If I don’t like the driver, I’ll only be out $12. Then I can order new 26350’s, a custom driver from MTN and probably a new xhp70. This is the more expensive option. Lol.
Yeah, that makes sense to me. 