L>M>H (<1.5A) Driver for 4xAA > XML - Will this work?

Upgrading a P4 light currently driven at 1A. Very difficult to improve heat sinking but it is fine stock...

Using the existing driver will make the low too bright (it has low>high, and low is already a bit bright) so I'd like to find a driver that does L,M,H (order not important, but no disco!) with a max of ?1.4? or less.

used this http://www.videofoundry.co.nz/ianman/laboratory/research/driverlist.php

to find this (those links didn't work but I found it w/ the sku (http://www.kaidomain.com/product/details.S003256)

C7135, 3 mode



$3.69 (formerly $4.99)

Linear regulator

3.3-6.1 V
(for 0.6 V lower Vin see Tip 1 in the notes below)
1 3x NiMH,
4x alkaline,
1x Li-ion

1000 mA
constant current

3 17 mm SKU S003256. Uses three AMC7135 linear regulator chips and ATtiny13V for PWM modes - low, medium, high according to gunga, not the other way around. Is not 1.2 A output as claimed, but you might get 1.1 A. Changing the mode group may also be possible using the contacts on the bottom of the driver board. See extra AMC7135 notes below.

This product is also listed on KD as 8020, with the same SKU number.

I would prefer a little more current on high (I'm guessing more efficiency will mean I can do that w/o too much heat...like say 1.2, maybe 1.4?)

any ideas? if someone wants to make me a driver my paypal is ready to go:)

The Nanjg 101AK at DX with a 4th AMC7135 soldered at the free spot?

Has mode groups including a simple L/M/H.

This is a great driver. Default is a 5 modes, but you can easily make it to be 3 mode (L/M/H)


I used this one for my 4AA setup .

There are several variations of this:
sku.26108 - 5 mode with memory
sku.26107 - 5 mode no memory
sku.26111 - 3 mode with memory
sku.25517 - 3 mode no memory

I've got the tools, but lack the skill to solder on that scale. Judging from the forum, and the projects I am planning, I need to acquire them...

this one sounds ideal - I'm willing to gamble w/ 1.4A, it has a nice low and I may have a use for the other 4 drivers - except I can't tell what the input voltage range is?
If the other modes are strobe I'll short the pins w/ circuit writer. if they're just more mid mode spacing, perfect

wow, the comments make it sound like a lottery as to what you receive! Memory is mildly attractive for this project but the comments make me nervous...

How do I find out the max voltage on this driver?

I've never bought from kai - do they take as long as DX?


Didn't know KD had that...

That's the Nanjg 101AK with that 4th AMC7135 already on board :)

Max 5.5V

Yep, it is a lottery... best to order 2 or 3 different ones to level out the warehouse mistakes. If you want I can measure hi/low tailcap readings for you (with 4XAA Eneloops).

This driver is the same as the one from KD already made strobeless:



SWEET! that's awesome guys, thanks for all the info, now to browse shining beam and see what else I can find to add to the order:) the per unit cost is twice as much, but they are in the same state so this project might be done very soon if they have a warm xml too!

Could those chips be removed for lower current?

I'm thinking of using it in a headlamp with just one chip left. So high at 350ma would last 6h+ with 4NiMh. With R5 that would be 139lm.

Don't forget efficiency and loss on reflector and lens. It could easily be under 100 Lumen OTF (out the front) at 350 mA. The medium mode already is pretty close with ~440mA (SB Driver) ... so why break of chips for that?... or do you need the according lows also?

It will be a flood caving light with bare emitter so only the acrylic cover will degrade output. The low modes (110 and 15ma), would also be of use for looong run times. It's all theory but before I order driver I'd like to know if removing three chips is even doable.

Since you want to remove them anyway, how about this driver. (has a no strobes mode) Already has less chips and should pretty much answer if it is possible. Remove and add chips by stacking should be possible.

4AA is going to produce excess heat with this driver - it'll work, but the efficiency will be less than it would be with 3AA - AMC7135 based drivers are best run as close to the minimum voltage as possible (1x LiIon or 3x NiMh)

Very true, this is why I used this driver for my 4xAA setup. Quote from a DX-User: "The driver does not get hot when being powered with a 6V or 8.4V source" I will do another Solarfarce mod with 3xAA tubes. Regulation is horrible on those 7135 on 1x LiIon or 3x NiMh though. The 4AA setup is always above VF of the emitter and is way better regulated on high voltage drivers imho. What really sets premium lights apart from better budget lights is not the machining, not the emitters... it's the drivers. I would like to get my hands on some spare Fenix, Nitecore and Xeno drivers.

I already have this driver but what I don't like about it is the evident PWM and I don't know how to make it 400-500ma on high. And it interferes with compass.

And about heating of a linear driver; it may not be an issue since it will be driven at 350ma max which means (4*1,2V-3V)*0,35A=0,42W transferred to heat.

It's not the energy that is used for the LED, that is the problem, but the excessive energy pulled from the battery and then just burnt in the linear regulator (like a resistance) if the voltage is much higher than Vf of the emitter.(efficiency is really ugly at 6V) Read here for more info. The 4th AA helps in regulation but not necessarily in runtime compared to 3AAs, to put it drastically.