This is moving rapidly to confuse the Moose thread as usual. I appreciate what you are doing in the build though I don't understand whats going on and then you mention go giants and Dale said that was wrong and there cowboys. I thought this was a small dainty light? I'm going to take a Bex and have a lie down.
Sorry, wrong sport(SF Giants). Cowboys had a nice win but they lost to the SF 49’ers. :bigsmile:
Steve, it’s a Tiny Giant for a Cowboy (Cowgirl?)
Oh. Where can I get one of those? Cowgirl that is and would my wife mind?
I don’t think that would change any. Then you’d have 2 wimmen mad at ya. Might not be a good idee…
Unless, of course, you’re handy! Justin says wimmen like a handy man. Or somebody said that, somewhere…
Scott’s handy, obviously, and he even makes the wine to keep his wimmen smilin! Good thinking, says I.
Hey Steve, just buy your wife some boots, chaps, and a hat. Maybe a vest too. 
But, for your own safety, do NOT get her a bullwhip or a set of pearl handled revolvers! 
Maybe you’d do good to nominate her for this light Scott’s building, by the time he gets done with it it’ll look like a million ducks, that oughtta get you out of some trouble. 
I’m leaning towards a bit more complexity for the female BLF members one (hence the current build) and a smaller, simpler version (keychain, lower current, 10180 clicky) for the SO light. Two modes only so that low voltage warning has done where to go.
Your forgot, no spurs.
Those pointy boots can be a pain in the arse too.
I Don't know whether to get excited or be scared now. I concur that women should have a complex light though.
Last year I was discussing with Dale various ways of cutting short spacer rings shorter and more evenly. For another project I asked a member to cut some rings on a lathe but this time I wanted to see if there was a DIY alternative. The problems were mainly that very small rings tend to get mangled and are difficult to reproduce with any consistency. To get around this I drilled a block of wood partway through with a 1/2” drill bit and inserted a 1/2” dowel secured with a screw from the other side. This, combined with a metal disc to prevent my tubing material from digging into the block, allowed me to cut a bunch of rings at ~1.4mm.
Then, by using a scrap of brass with a hole in it as a thickness guide, I sanded the rings to get them even shorter and also to a very even length(within .1mm variation).
The sanding guide has a fender washer to back up the hole in the brass scrap and 2 pieces of masking tape in between to increase the offset thickness. Final length of the rings is 1.19mm and could have been as little as .8mm. Another piece of tape doubled in the middle made a convenient handle.
Here they are doing the job of separating the fins. This isn’t brazed yet as I need a hole through all this leading to the emitter and I want that to end up centered on the fins. I’ll adjust that by making a longer first spacer ring.
The fins themselves are still a bit uneven and need to be annealed and flattened before I attempt to braze the whole thing.
After brazing, the head will get evened up and drilled for the bezel threads which will be soldered in place instead of brazing.
it always amazed me what you can do with metal and simple tools RBD. was looking at the last pic and thinking, its hard to believe all this is just made with hand tools. great work there.
So now you have solid brass spacers instead of copper wire rings. Well done! 
I would have no hope in the world doing what you have achieved so far.
Have you seen the simple 2-mode UI tterev3 wrote for my GAW lights? It (on a tiniest10) would be perfect for the SO light.
And he driver could be even smaller if it was single 7135 only, the driver would only have the 7135, the SOT-23 10F322 and a single cap, I could probably make it 7-8mm Ø if needed.
8 mm would be a good idea for an even smaller light using LR44 cells. I’m looking at 100mA high and 10-20 mA low for the 10180 light. Is that doable with the tiniest 10?
BTW, Giants movin on! Woohoo!
I went all in last night and brazed the rings and fins onto the head.
After a dunk in boiling water.
And again after cleaning it up and sanding the fins even.
And lastly after drilling the hole for the optic. Most of this step was done with 200w/d taped around a drill bit.
A short piece of tube will fit this bore and stick up past the fins to locate the threads for the bezel.
I should also get a set of Brian’s 7135 test boards in the next few days so I can pretest the chips that go into the stack for this driver.
That is one HOT looking light. How do you go about polishing between the fins? Your file work on the end piece is exceptional. We'll have to have a runoff with yourself and OL.