In that case you don't have protection from flashlight overheating.
I’m not really understanding how to use the NTC sensor, is it mounted to the back side of the emitter shelf? Glued down with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive or how? In a copper pill, could it be soldered in? Will full contact with copper (or any metal really) short it out? Never used one before, wondering if it might be soldered to the pill… maybe one side only?
Would it be wise to move it to the walls of the driver cavity to remove it slightly from the direct heat of the emitter, thereby buffering it?
Would the driver benefit from potting it with Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive? Maybe more so if it were used in a floating environment? Is there a particular component that creates the heat? The MOSFET or MCU? Could a small heat sink be used to aid heat dispersal from this component, while potting the driver?
Wanting to understand these basics as I got mine in yesterday and am looking forward to putting them to work. :bigsmile:
Thank you for your hard work and dedication, very much appreciated…
Dale, here a few things I just clipped from djozz’s review/test of the prototype drivers, linked in the OP of this thread. This should help answer some of your questions. For more information, I recommend you read both of the test threads (djozz and HKJ) in their entirety. 
Edit: By the way, the NTC is an SMD component and I’ve seen some MCPCB’s made with a place for a NTC to be soldered on. But it probably shouldn’t be soldered directly onto just bare metal, unless you’re thinking of standing it on one end, with the other end pointing out away from the metal surface.
Thanks David, appreciate that effort! 
Explains a lot
What’s the diameter of the thru-holes for the + and - wire?
Or, what gauge of tinned wire will poke successfully through those holes to make a clean connection with the least amount of solder?
From led4power OP
Generally,you can use 20AWG unsoldered wire,and probably 22AWG presoldered wire.
I must have missed something somewhere… when modifying to 9A with a resistor mod, is the new resistor stacked or does the 6A resistor have to be removed first? These are itty bitty! Removing that one that’s there is scaring me!
I am stuck in a rut, to be sure. I have learned to solder small components with my glasses removed. Today, setting up some of these new LD-2’s with their very small components I got really smart (hahaha, yeah right!) and I set up my Canon 5DMkII with it’s full HD video capability and then hooked it to a 32” TV. The macro lens let me get a massive view of the driver for easy identification of the small pads. Then I went right back to using my naked eyes while all the gear sat unused!
I found time slowed by a factor of almost 5X! What felt like 3 minutes was 15-20 minutes on the clock! Suddenly hours were gone, just soldering moon sets and some 6V sets on 12 of these for Jubuldum. And here I am, wondering how to finish with the last 4 that he want’s to be 9A… leave the 6A resistor and stack, or replace it with the 9A component?
Pretty sure it’s a replacement rather than stacking.
I thought so too, so that’s what I did.
These things (resistors) are tiny! I did it by hand, naked eye, and only one got away from me… like an albino flea leaping off your hand, finding it is hopeless!
The modern science way…
9 or 12A? Between the two of you there should be plenty of spares.
It was one of the 6V conversion resistors, I think it’s all good though, we should have enough like you say. I know I won’t be using many, if any, in the 6V set-up but wanted to have the components so I could ad lib, just in case.
Ad lib in this case means he knew he would lose some.
I tried to send some extra parts and retain some in case any in the GB needed replacements. Not knowing ahead of time who would need them drove the descision to keep more of the extras. The 5-pin part had the lowest quantity of extras so most got only the minimum of those.
Figures I would screw something up (I’m assuming).
I have my light together, and it’s pulling exactly 6A, which is great.
However, I only have 1 mode, and nothing I try makes any other modes happen.
Anyone know how I screwed this up?
Sounds like your emitter negative lead is grounding out, bypassing the mcu so there’s only one mode, Turbo.
Check to see if your reflector is touching at the mcpcb or if it might be touching the pill at the driver contact.
Don’t really understand it, since I had it soldered so clean the first time. Finally got modes to work though. My problem now is that moonlight and low flicker…
Mode switching also takes several tries. Awesome…
Probably fried something when I put the positive spring on.
Ronin, yes and no. A forward clicky will let you cycle through modes before you fully click the switch. Once you’ve actually engaged the switch so that it’s locked on, you’ll have to turn it off to be able to again go through the modes. A half press on the forward clicky gives momentary action, and this is where the modes are changed. So you’d start from Off and bump it to the mode you wish to use then complete the press.
User Interface groups will not be accessible through a clicky, forward or reverse, so you’ll just have the basic modes. It’ll take an electronic switch to access the groups.
Nice set up Dale on the soldering. You continue to amaze with your efforts.
My first LD-2 is installed! Yay!
I put it in a Sunwayman T40CS (which I can’t find at the moment) and the XP-L V6 emitter is making 1752 lumens out the front on a single HE-4 cell with a home made dummy filling the remainder of the tube.
Woohoo! I got the moon mode and the NTC as well as an e-switch set up with a lock-out tail clicky.
Because of this particular light it was quite a chore but in the end it’s all good as it’s really putting out the light and is now a solid performer.
Thanks Steve, appreciate the kind words.