LD-2 : 6Amps pwm-less linear driver - info and FAQ thread

Flashlight Modding and DIY Parts
101

Have you already tested?

102

I just installed the ld2 in a new light and it seems like the modes I’m getting are high-high-low. I opted for a 12amp resistor, has anybody else had this happen?

Edit: It seems I’m getting m-m-low, the high won’t come on.

103

What LEDs are you powering?

104

single xpl-hi

105

Looking for some advice. I have this in the triple pilll from my blf ti from rey, which has a a screw in retaining ring.

Earlier it wouldn’t turn on when assembled. That seemed like because the emitter leads on the battery side of the ld-2 was shorting to the ring so I ground that w my dremel and then it seemed OK.

Now I noticed the opposite problem when I use a longer protected battery. When I screw it tight the light turns on high and won’t turn off.

I can’t figure out what might be causing that?

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jim

106

Why would anyone power single xp-l with driver set to 12A max?

0,24A , 2.4A , and 12A are L-M-H currents for 12A setup,so no wonder that you have two "high" modes,visual difference between 2.4A and ~6A(that's probably the current on high with fresh cell for xp-l) is small.


107

This seems like you have short because of longer battery,do you have some kapton tape or even better round led gaskets/insulators for spring side? Which spring did you solder?

108

Hi,

I figured it was a short, but can’t figure what is shorting to what?

I am just using a small spring that I soldered onto the round area on the battery side.

Do you mean to put kapton tape or a round led gasket on the battery side of the driver before screwing the retaining ring down onto it?

Do you have a pic of something like that?

Thanks,
Jim

109

Also, BTW, what are the non-e-switch modes for the LD-2? Are there any mode groups? This questions is without the moonlight parts.

Thanks,
Jim

110

Still new to modding and that makes total sense but didn’t occur to me when I was putting it together.

111

Djozz recommends 6 amps max current. He blew a bond wire at 8 amps

112

I tried covering the entire battery side of the driver (except of cours the spring) with kapton tape, but it still does the same thing. If I use the Eagletac protected battery, the light turns on in high mode (apparently) when I screw things together.

113

can you measure if led - has a connenction to the outer ring (mass) of the driver?

114

For start check is there short between GND and :led + and - connection,spring,ntc and e-switch pads.I assume that you have ohmmeter/multimeter.

115

I’ll try, but I might not have said this. When I try the Eagletac battery, the light doesn’t come on when I START screwing on the body, but it comes on when I tighten the body at a certain point.

[EDIT: In other words, whatever is shorting is only shorting when I tighten the body.]

The other weird things is that if I then start UNscrewing the body, the light stays on almost until the point that I have the body completely apart.

Also, BTW, I did not attach the NTC at all.

Jim

116

Hi,

I found the problem! It was because the battery insulation was broken at a couple of points, probably because the battery tube is too tight.

I’ve posted details in the BLF TI thread (BLF Ti - post your pics and specs).

Thanks,
Jim

117

Hi,

If I put the light on high mode, it blinks after ~3 seconds, then drops to lower mode. Is this normal? And is it due to temperature protection (I don’t have the NTC sensor installed)?

Can this be disabled so that I can keep it on high longer?

118

That's pretty rare and potentially dangerous, but it seems battery protection circuit still works ok.

119

That sounds like low voltage warning.Check battery voltage.

120

Are you saying that is the battery protection? Is it checking for low voltage? Or current?

This is happening with several of my (different) batteries, including the Eagletac (which is protected) and several Efest batteries. Some of these haven’t been used in awhile so I’m charging them up now and will try them again.