I would definitely prefer it to always start on Low, then i will be more interested.
Smarty. Not all of us are gun solderers as per another thread going here. I gave up trying to add chips along time ago but we are good at other things.
Can I select mode groups by soldering?
The rectification scheme used in the 32mm DRY driver is not synchronous. While I don’t understand exactly what it is doing, I can say it’s not doing that. (Note that a large diode is present on the 32mm DRY.) Also, (and I just posted this in your other thread on the LD-40 although you may have realized it by now anyway) the LD-40 does have two FETs - probably in the same configuration as the 32mm DRY.
All that said, I agree that the larger driver is probably a better bet.
Maybe? Typically two mode groups are available and/or forwards/backwards. In this case it may only be forwards/backwards, but that’s mostly speculation on my part.
Anyone know what that resistor value for the resistor at about 11:00 in the pic in the OP is (to compare to the R100 on the “LD44/40” from the other thread on the CNQ driver)?
Does anybody know if it’s suitable to power a single XML2 with an automotive source ?
I wired 2 of these with one XML2 on each on my motorcycle and fried the 2 LEDs after a while…but I think that was a thermal problem
Any idea why they edited the info to say that MTG2 is not to be powered with this driver?
http://intl-outdoor.com/ld4b-24a-17mm-buck-driver-3v16v-p-817.html
I wanted to use it for 2-3x 18650 XHP70 lantern with an added R200 resistor @3A, but this explanation came as a surprise.
Here I am, grave digging old threads again…
This puzzles me as well. I just found this old thread while doing some reading about these drivers and remembered a light I built about 2 years ago.
When the red Convoy S2+ became available, I bought one and set it up with MT-G2 and 2*18350 as someone else had obviously done before. This was the driver of choice as I did not want to use a zener modified linear driver. The driver needs an extra brass collar to fit the S2+ pill properly, which also helps with battery dimensions at least if the already short reflector is heavily shortened.
Somehow I had a recollection this project had failed and buried it in my box of misc. spare parts. However, upon inspection, the unit was just threaded loose and now works perfectly. I don’t see how a 2.4 A buck driver suitable for two 3V or a nominally 6V LED could be MT-G2 incompatible. Any guesses why IOS now advises against doing this and whether that makes sense?
Could be lack of sufficient overhead. Have you tried running the cells down with it?
Thank you. This was what I was just starting to do and noticed some horrible flickering. I’m gonna have to check and re solder my connections. First of all, the old pair of Efest 18350 IMR will be topped up before my 2nd test.
If what you suggest is the issue, 18350(esp. older worn out cells) coupled with this driver and emitter might be a bad choice to begin with. In that case, minimizing wire and spring losses could be a partial solution - or using new, fresh and likely better cells. The driver has no LVP whatsoever, so running the cells down very far was never my intention.
The S2+ in this configuration isn’t practical but it’s just nice. Less impressive by today’s standards, but still. Very soft floodlight pattern. The reflector makes a difference vs. no reflector, but that’s it.